Custom Gaskets

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OK, NIk. I'm a dummy. What's layout fluid.
Bob

You are no dummy. As Nik already said it is the blue fluid that is used to layout marks on metal. I can assure you that it is essential to a guy like me with a blind left eye and maybe 80% in the right. It allows folks to easily see their layout marks/scribes
 
Prussian Blue is typically a dye or a non drying marking "cream". It works REALLY well for fitting parts together to find out where they are touching. Because it doesn't dry, at least not remotely quickly, you have to be careful because it can get all over ya fast.

Dykem blue is a fast trying layout fluid. It works terrific for showing scribe marks. It also helps show were two parts rub together. What it is really really REALLY bad for is bluing a firearm. Yes, I've seen this happen, I fought the strong urge not to choke the owner. Removing Dykem is SIMPLE if you use acetone. It rips it off FAST.

Gunsmith by trade, I'm VERY familiar with both products.
 
Prussian Blue is typically a dye or a non drying marking "cream". It works REALLY well for fitting parts together to find out where they are touching. Because it doesn't dry, at least not remotely quickly, you have to be careful because it can get all over ya fast.

Dykem blue is a fast trying layout fluid. It works terrific for showing scribe marks. It also helps show were two parts rub together. What it is really really REALLY bad for is bluing a firearm. Yes, I've seen this happen, I fought the strong urge not to choke the owner. Removing Dykem is SIMPLE if you use acetone. It rips it off FAST.

Gunsmith by trade, I'm VERY familiar with both products.

Why we used that stuff... to mark the newbies!!
 
Ya'll bunch of spend thrifts , Dykem AND remover.
Hmph, a black or red "magic marker was what us shade tree guys had to make do with.
 
What about using gasket making paste or RTV sealant, for ultra thin gaskets?

Temperature?
 
Jeez Bob, it's isn't not knowing what layout fluid is that makes you a dummy :msp_tongue::hmm3grin2orange:
Layout fluid (also called bluing dye or "Dykem) is a very thin "paint" used in metal working to temporarily mark surfaces. I like it because it transfers from one surface to another very easily and then is just as easily removed with layout fluid remover.

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Just read your reply and laughed. Guess you and my wife agree on something. Also when talking with Mark, I feel the same way.
 
To make nice round l holes I use a piece of automotive steel brake line. Cut it square with a tubing cutter and chamfer the edge with a file. Set your gasket material on the end of a piece of wooden 4x4 and punch holes with a hammer tap. You can also use empty shell casings.

If you need a template/pattern you can sometimes put the part in a photocopier set at 100%.
 
Very, very little. It's not enough to worry about.

you are right normally, when it was fitted back together using nothing other then high temp engine silicon
it spat full out the carbe but it never did with the old gasket on it witch was about 1.5mm thick and no I have not done any
port work to this motor.

the main idea of this thread was to hear what other people made there gaskets out of
 
Who sells sheets of gasket material ? I know I have seen them somewere but I cant remember where .
 
Who sells sheets of gasket material ? I know I have seen them somewere but I cant remember where .

summit racing or other racing suppliers have it. Napa is also a good bet. If you go into Autozone or other more general stores they might ask you what car it's for... lol

Mr. Gasket Universal Gasket Sheets 5960 - SummitRacing.com

search summit for gasket material and a bunch of different thicknesses show up.

RTV is good for sealing if you don't want the thickness, but a regular gasket is better if the pieces aren't perfectly flat or you want to take up some height. In lots of engine / mechanical parts the thickness of a gasket was part of the design.

For a head gasket copper is generally the best because of its softness and heat transfer ability. fiber head gaskets always have a steel (use the term loosly) compression ring. I've never heard of anyone using aluminum for a head gasket. If you want more compression and the surfaces are completely flat use permatex spray copper on both sides and do without the gasket.. but if there is any irregularity it will blow out.

http://www.permatex.com/products/pr...-copper-spray-a-gasket-hi-temp-sealant-detail

If you are going to take it apart again a gasket is better than permatex... which can be a pain to remove. A gasket is also generally more stable against fluids and in any pressure / fluid application. Permatex always surprises me though.
 
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Can you typically use thin aluminum sheet to make gaskets or copper is the only suitable material when it comes to metallic gaskets? I need to make a base gasket...
 

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