cut some firewood with a friend today

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If the wood is hard, sometimes I swap chains with every refueling (I regularly take at least 4 chains into the field). If you don't have the chains, a stump vise in the field can help you get the job done. Oh, and I use the Stihl file guide for my pitch, even in the field.


After today makes sense buddy said we were really working chains. I'll have 4 next weekend and 3 for 180 lol
 
You should sharpen them when ever you feel the cuts getting slower. The chain will actually last longer than waiting to long. The saw looks to be in good shape like it is not to old or should I say not to much time on it. The bar shows that the chains have not been none to sharp. Remember that dirt, rocks, pavement ect. are a chains worst nightmare.


Thanks. chains have been my only problem I'm getting better though

I'll sharpen them more often and swap out when gets slow

Yea saw is 3-4 yrs old been great just 1 carb ajustment that's it 290 is a real good and tough saw :)

But I'll take your advice man. Thanks.
 
Josh, if the sun is shining, look at the tips of the cutters in sunlight. If you see a shiny glare at the point on the cutters, chances are that they are dull and need some file.

On a razor sharp edge, you don't get that reflection like you do on a dull edge.
 
Get a sharpening guide, use save edge files and your chains will be even sharper. I stack logs like that over other logs, left side down right side up, use left leg to secure log if necessary and let gravity drop log as I cut. Move log again until cut to the right length for rounds. Keep bar tip up during the last bit of cut to avoid contact with ground and lower revs and let weight of saw to finish cut which should be easy as log starts to drop. Try to make cut over the top of another log when able to finish cut into the bottom log. 1/4 second of the chain hitting dirt is like sawing over a half cord of the hardest wood. Dirt=enemy. When you first cut with a saw with a properly sharpened chain its like seeing Gee Oh Dee.
 
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Regardless of what you think josh, that's a dull chain on that 290 or incorrect sharpening. Slow cutting and plenty of dust.


+1 Is there a lot of dirt on the logs? Have you ever filed the rakers? No self feed at all. The only saw I have with 325 the rakers need to be cut down a bit by the 2nd or 3rd sharpening,your chain looks like it is 1/2 way gone. Even a very sharp tooth filed properly will give results like you had with high rakers.
 
yea I did hit just a tad a few times. But it did not dull chain at all.

yea we had most of it off ground actually.

thanks. My friend might get a 290. he loves mine.

Sorry to sound like an a** but if u did hit the pavement then you did dull the saw, unless you are a magician, cause i have yet to see somebody hit the pavement and not dull the chain
 
Josh,

I would suggest buying a new stihl chain. Hand file your chain. Make a test cut. Put on a the new chain and make another test cut in the same log. Compare that with your hand filed chain. If the new chain cuts significantly faster try again. Keep comparing your hand filed chains to the new one until you get the hang of sharpening.
 
Dude, no offense but that was sick! I would be hiding from this site not posting a video! :laugh: And the moving back and forth with the saw, :newbie: I did'nt do the moving the saw back and forth when I was 11 yrs old!:hmm3grin2orange:

Yes, watch a video of Brad S and saw like that, are you sure your chain is sharp. It took a long time to get through the bigger log. Steve
 
Oh yes I was very impressed with the performance. Ate through the wood like a beaver on crack.

I would be disappointed! Here's a couple of my old Oleo Mac's (similar size to MS290) cutting hardwood with 3/8" chain,
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Josh, post another video with a new chain, it should cut a lot faster.
 
After watching the video and then reading the responses I will give the OP credit for wearing PPE. But the saw cutting performance is very poor, the wood should always be elevated off the surface whether soil,gravel or asphalt. The chain is certainly dull in the video and any decently running saw with a sharp chain would cut a lot faster, the saw rocking is totally unnecessary also as already mentioned. I hope the OP takes some of this advice and uses it to improve his cutting performance. I base my cutting performance on bucking up a cord of hard maple wood an hour without having to work overly fast or hard. I do run Stihl 044 ,MS440 and 066`s for bucking but also own and run many chainsaws from 45cc up to 137 cc.
Pioneerguy600
 
josh,

nice job on modding the muffler. it makes such a difference in this series of saw.

as has been mentioned, stop rocking your saw.

get some chaps that fit; they are way too short. some coverage is better than none, but you leave a large portion of your leg exposed.

get a Granberg filing jig (PM me if you want to buy the one i have) an use it to set the angles on your chain. they are a good tool for learning to hand sharpen.

find a Dolmar 6400 at a Home Depot. you have dozens of HD's around. pop a 7900 top on it and you will forget about a 440/460; stronger and lighter than either.
 
Josh, you might want to take a second and check this out.

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The thing I mostly did not like in the video was cutting logs in a pile. Yep, you rocked the saw a little, but that does not hurt anything. The chain probably needed touching up, but by the looks of the wood it probably would not hold a edge long being the logs have been rolled around in dirt. I just do not like cutting in a wood pile like that even though I have been guilty it too. You just have a higher chance of kickback, and you have to worry about the log you are cutting on and the 15 that are around it.
 
wow, watching that vid made me tired...

josh, i'd agree with the other posts..
but also, i'd think your bar rails need some attention by now too..
from the flat side of the bar, slide your fingernail towards the top and bottom of the bar, you should not feel that lip that is there, file or grind it so it's gone, your saw will cut better, much better..
 
Glad you posted. I liked the fact you wearing safety gear. You have some great advise from the people who know on this site. Take it because it will make your cutting more fun not to mention faster and safer. Your equipment will last longer as well.
:chainsaw:I agree with the post about getting a makita 6401. You would really enjoy cutting those logs with that saw.
 
Josh, if the sun is shining, look at the tips of the cutters in sunlight. If you see a shiny glare at the point on the cutters, chances are that they are dull and need some file.

On a razor sharp edge, you don't get that reflection like you do on a dull edge.

Yep if you can see the edge it aint no edge at all.
 
I will take everones advice and use it. I will check bar also. I consider myself n mddle of beginner and pro. Any advice I can get I'll take.

I did sharpen chain on small saw. Found out how to properly sharpen big difference.

I will have more videos up.
 
+1 Is there a lot of dirt on the logs? Have you ever filed the rakers? No self feed at all. The only saw I have with 325 the rakers need to be cut down a bit by the 2nd or 3rd sharpening,your chain looks like it is 1/2 way gone. Even a very sharp tooth filed properly will give results like you had with high rakers.

Spot on. Sharp cutters with high rakers only creates a bunch of dust. High rakers prevent the cutters from digging in and doing their job. If you don't have a depth gauge, get one, file the rakers and watch the chain work like new again.
 
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