Cutting cookies

[Jasonrkba]

I have a big old red oak that has beautiful grain and checking. I have an idea for making a few small tables but need to make some really nice cuts. Anyone have a tip for making good straight cuts? I know make sure the chain is good and sharp, equally on both sides but was trying to think of a jig or something?

Thanks. Jason.

 

[Bill G]

Make one straight cut and use a scribe/marking gauge to mark the next cuts. You can make one with a 2x2 and some nails or bolts

 

[Bill G]

If you take my suggestion it is best to remove the bark to make rotating the scribe around easier and marking it easier. You should be able to rotate it all the way around the log and then just cut on the line.

 

[pdqdl]

Check out methods of setting up and using an "Alaskan sawmill". You can buy them as an attachment for your chainsaw, or you can build your own. With a little practice they can make decent dimensional lumber. It will never produce as smooth a finish as a bandsaw or circular sawmill.

If you don't want to work that hard, just get a contractor's chalk line and pop a straight line onto your log. Make a few light passes with your chainsaw following the straight line you marked. Once you have a straight line etched deep enough in the log, use that line to cut off the slab that you laid out.
I have used that technique to make replacement boards for my trailer. It works pretty good with a bit of patience, but not nearly as well as the Alaskan sawmill.

 

[Bill G]

Check out methods of setting up and using an "Alaskan sawmill". You can buy them as an attachment for your chainsaw, or you can build your own. With a little practice they can make decent dimensional lumber. It will never produce as smooth a finish as a bandsaw or circular sawmill.

If you don't want to work that hard, just get a contractor's chalk line and pop a straight line onto your log. Make a few light passes with your chainsaw following the straight line you marked. Once you have a straight line etched deep enough in the log, use that line to cut off the slab that you laid out.
I have used that technique to make replacement boards for my trailer. It works pretty good with a bit of patience, but not nearly as well as the Alaskan sawmill.

What????

I believe he was asking about cutting "cookies" thus rounds not rectangular slabs. An Alaskan mill will be do ziltch. Jason can correct me but I believe he wanted to make "round" table tops thus stripping the bark an a simple scribe will do the job.

 

[Seachaser]

We use the smaller ones for coasters, cutting boards, and trivets. I can run them through my 13” planer until they are smooth and pretty. Then sand and finish.

 

[82F100SWB]

What????

I believe he was asking about cutting "cookies" thus rounds not rectangular slabs. An Alaskan mill will be do ziltch. Jason can correct me but I believe he wanted to make "round" table tops thus stripping the bark an a simple scribe will do the job.

You absolutley can use an Alaskan to cut consistent cookies. I have done it many times. stand the log on end, use the Alaskan as your guide, make your cross cuts, boom, square, consistent thickness cookies.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Before you get too excited just assume that they will crack every which of way.
Been there, done that.

 

[djg james]

We use the smaller ones for coasters, cutting boards, and trivets. I can run them through my 13” planer until they are smooth and pretty. Then sand and finish.

What Zero said. Yours crack?

 

[82F100SWB]

If there is a way to stop them from cracking, I'd love to know!

 

[Old2stroke]

When they crack, and they probably will, just fill the cracks with a contrasting color of epoxy, it will give interesting visual affects to a "cookie" table. Also, there are specially formulated resins that can be poured onto a flat top wood surface to give a deep protective clear finish. I don't worry about getting both surfaces parallel, 3 legs rather than 4 makes it easy to get the top level.

 

[ZeroJunk]

There are all kinds of fairing compounds depending on whether you want strength or easy to fair.

I use cabosil . It is a structural filler and hard to sand. Look at West Marine etc.

Mix with your epoxy till you get the thickness you need to stay put.

 

[pdqdl]

What????

I believe he was asking about cutting "cookies" thus rounds not rectangular slabs. An Alaskan mill will be do ziltch. Jason can correct me but I believe he wanted to make "round" table tops thus stripping the bark an a simple scribe will do the job.

You might be right, but that doesn't matter. Alaskan mill works any direction, and the "cookies" for a table don't work too well. If you want your cookie-tables to last, cut 'em thin and glue them to some plywood.

 

[Bill G]

You might be right, but that doesn't matter. Alaskan mill works any direction, and the "cookies" for a table don't work too well. If you want your cookie-tables to last, cut 'em thin and glue them to some plywood.

Once cut they can be made to last if prepared properly and dried properly. They cannot be just cut and left alone. A very thin kerf blade on a large bandsaw helps. They can also be ripped on a table saw. If done with a thin kerf blade your glue lines will disappear. Todays modern glues are tremendous.

 

[Old2stroke]

If there is a way to stop them from cracking, I'd love to know!

About the only to stop the cracking is to place them in a kiln where the humidity is carefully controlled during the drying process.

 

[Bill G]

About the only to stop the cracking is to place them in a kiln where the humidity is carefully controlled during the drying process.

You can also rip them with a thin blade dry them and glue. I used to get 14"-18" wide Red Oak boards in that were obviously kiln dried. Folks would give me a funny look with I would straight line them then start ripping. I had a co-worker want to build a large blanket chest years ago. He glued up a RO panel that was about 36" wide. He used too wide of boards. I took it and ran through the widebelt sander and got it ready. When I went to sit it on a work table it snapped leaving a huge crack.

 

[ericylee]

If there is a way to stop them from cracking, I'd love to know!

Wax or paint the end grain while it’s green before it begins to dry

 

[82F100SWB]

About the only to stop the cracking is to place them in a kiln where the humidity is carefully controlled during the drying process.

I've actually tried sticking a few in with a kiln charge here at work, they still cracked. Mind you we are a stud mill and are drying SPF, not hardwoods, but the charge they were in with had a 10 hour ramp time, and I think 30 hour total cook time.

 

[Old2stroke]

I've actually tried sticking a few in with a kiln charge here at work, they still cracked. Mind you we are a stud mill and are drying SPF, not hardwoods, but the charge they were in with had a 10 hour ramp time, and I think 30 hour total cook time.

Use to live in Dryden, great place to grow up and should have stayed there. There was a kiln operated by a Rathwell family (spelling?), any connection or part of the paper mill?

 

[pdqdl]

and are drying SPF...

That sounds like trade jargon that we shouldn't be expected to know.

Whut's SPF?