If you haven't seen one, google Bilke S3. Mine was great on manuka/kanuka but not much of that being cleared lately with honey prices so good. Perfect for small stuff that isn't otherwise worth messing with, and it can handle bent wood.
Cutting the small stuff
- Thread starter Bobby Kirbos
- Start date
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The biggest headache with my method is once you cut the stems, you need to pick up all the pieces and toss them in the trailer. If you're lucky, sometimes a whole arm load will stay together in the saw buck and you can grab them as a group - but usually they are all over the ground.
I keep thinking about mounting something to my loader bucket that I can load with poles, then lift above the trailer so when I cut they drop right into the trailer. Of course, I would also need to elevate myself above the trailer to cut them - hmmm - maybe stand in the bucket while cutting. Don't get me thinking about this too much - I might have to make something!
Don't Watch These Videos!!! (if you don't want to buy or make something to solve your problem).
Philbert
I bring in limb wood in long lengths, whatever length I can load on the truck. Then set my sawbuck up right next to where I'm going to stack, back truck up to it and let the fun begin.
No thanks. Those metal pieces are waaayyyy to close to the saw bar. Mine are 2" angle spaced at 16". No chance of hitting them? Bet me, been there, done that and spent the time sharping a 'rocked' chain.
Philbert - you are an enabler
Forget the fancy plastic bits - I envision a 2x4, a 2 x 8, a chunk of 3/4" plywood, a couple of strap hinges, and a square tube frame with some spring assist.
Unfortunately - there are several projects ahead of this one!
Forget the fancy plastic bits - I envision a 2x4, a 2 x 8, a chunk of 3/4" plywood, a couple of strap hinges, and a square tube frame with some spring assist.
Unfortunately - there are several projects ahead of this one!
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Do you have a set of forks for your FEL?
Build your own, you can space them how you want. The later version of this product uses HDPE (?) cups, which would cause fewer sparks.
I would go with plywood 'cups' and garage door hinges (cheap and forgiving).
I like the dumping-all-at-once idea in the second video - easier to make.
Philbert
Bobby Kirbos
Scrounger of Cellulose Based BTUs
That's my plan too.
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Many years ago at the UK "Great Dorset Steam Fair"I bought a pack of blades for an old Milwaukee sawzall type tool when I put the blade in i realized that it cut on the pull rather than the push it cuts fantastic for kindling branches etc it was a pack of 6 blades & 2003 the year bought & I still have 2 new left They will probably last me out I found the grinder saw blades were notchey /charttery
Jakers
Owner - Arbor Jake's Tree Service, LLC
Not sure how the sawzall blades are normally configured over in France but here in the US they are all "cut on the pull". I've never seen any sawzall blade yet that was not.
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
+1. I don't see how cutting on the push would work very good at all no matter what you were trying to cut. Would be jumping all over the place.
There are 'reverse pitch' jigsaw blades, which cut on the push stroke, and leave a splinter-free surface on finished materials. Prevents lifting of laminates, veneers, plaster, etc. Might be some for reciprocating saws as well.
"Bosch T101BR 4 In. 10 TPI Reverse Pitch Clean for Wood T-Shank Jig Saw Blades
Unique reverse-tooth design produces clean top surfaces with minimal splintering. For clean, fast cuts in wood and wood byproducts, countertops, and other visible surfaces. "
Philbert
Jakers
Owner - Arbor Jake's Tree Service, LLC
most hand saws are push to cut but I've never run across any open ended blade power tools that cut with the push.... except a chainsaw when used on the top side of the bar
interesting design. never seen that before but then again, I'm not a wood worker
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
All handsaws work that way, well at least the older quality professional ones
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Never really engaged the grey matter much on the subject just know that the cutting action on the original blades branded "Milwaukee was opposite to the ones from Dorset & they cut a lot better & the Japanese "Silky Co" advertise their pruning saws as the ultimate cutting tools with the blade working on the pull stoke
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
They are the "bees knees /dogs dodahs" super for cutting ply & leaving a not to much extra required to obtain a finish
alleyyooper
Addicted to ArboristSite
I usually don't do any thing with stuff smaller than about 3 inches. But some times I want some mulch so ai run the small stuff thru my Tonahawk chipper.
This is the rig to deal with stuff 8 inchs and small as a #2 pencil if your so inclined.
Al
This is the rig to deal with stuff 8 inchs and small as a #2 pencil if your so inclined.
AlNSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes but those are hand saws. It doesn't seem to take much sometimes to get a recip saw bouncing around if the foot isn't firmly against the surface of the wood, and the blade isn't pulling the saw body towards the wood too. The slightest little bind, or sometimes just loosening your grip, can have the saw blade pushing the saw body up away from the wood on the push stroke, then your into a jack hammering effect. Which running a push cut blade would seem to be doing all the time.
Seems to be the way when I'm on the trigger, anyway.
Multifaceted
Firewood Hoarder, Axe Enthusiast
I'm a little late to this thread, but for anything 2" in diameter or smaller I use a light axe and the edge of a chopping block. I use a lot of limbwood for kindling and can process about two weeks worth in about 20 minutes. Most green wood shears off in one chop, dead limbs are about the same but tend to be a little more hard and crumbly, so sometimes two chops.
