Cylinder bolts stuck on a Husqvarna 55, ideas welcome.

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Axlerod74

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Got an '03 husqvarna 55 rancher that is in mostly good shape but needs a ring. I have taken the head off on a couple of these before with no problems but the allen head bolts holding the cylinder down on this one will not budge!! I have rounded 3 allen wrenches, applied heat, and starting to round one of the bolt heads now. I do not think the head has ever been removed and is in factory installed condition. Anyone with experience here have any ideas?
 
If you can get some vise grip needle nose pliers on the head of the bolt. I cant remember if you have room or not.
 
Got an '03 husqvarna 55 rancher that is in mostly good shape but needs a ring. I have taken the head off on a couple of these before with no problems but the allen head bolts holding the cylinder down on this one will not budge!! I have rounded 3 allen wrenches, applied heat, and starting to round one of the bolt heads now. I do not think the head has ever been removed and is in factory installed condition. Anyone with experience here have any ideas?

If you are rounding wrenches off in them you need better wrenches. I would suggest getting the next size torx beyond what fits in there, and DRIVE it into the socket head. Driving action might break the threads loose also.
 
I have used an impact driver, long allen on end of impact driver hit with hammer. Good luck, hope suggestions help.
 
And if you can, use those AND the hex wrench at the same time.

Only one bolt would accept both. At least 2 of the wrenches were of good quality, I just put a lot of torq on them (put an extender on the long end, if they did not round they were going to snap.
 
Sounds like red loctite to me:msp_angry:. Use a high quality long allen socket and an a standard ratchet should take care of it. If not, use a impact wrench on a low setting.
 
Striking a bolt or machine screw always helps break them free, I have resorted to using a very sharp cold chisel to make contact with the side of the machine screw in cylinder bolts, work it with lighter taps first to start a cut/notch and then a good sound hit to start it moving, then take over with a tight fitting allen or torques bit to fully remove them. I have completely snapped off the best quality drive bits removing over stressed cylinder base screws but never stripped out the drive socket so badly that the screws are not removable.
Pioneerguy600
 
Worst case scenario- you can take a die grinder with a long-reach cobalt bit and grind the head(s) off the offending screws. Then after you remove the cylinder you can remove the threaded portion with vise grips and heat. I had to do this once on an 090.
 
Got an '03 husqvarna 55 rancher that is in mostly good shape but needs a ring. I have taken the head off on a couple of these before with no problems but the allen head bolts holding the cylinder down on this one will not budge!! I have rounded 3 allen wrenches, applied heat, and starting to round one of the bolt heads now. I do not think the head has ever been removed and is in factory installed condition. Anyone with experience here have any ideas?

Apply heat to the case where the bolt thread would be, not to the bolt top or cylinder. Put an allen in the bolt cap with some oil on it.

If you apply heat to the cylinder and bolt it will take much more heat because of the gasket. Trying to heat the case and not the bolt. If you are patient a couple cycles of heat and lube(WD-40,etc.) is usually very successful.

Typically end up using a Torx on worn hex caps.
 
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If you are rounding wrenches off in them you need better wrenches. I would suggest getting the next size torx beyond what fits in there, and DRIVE it into the socket head. Driving action might break the threads loose also.

Good idea! Have done this a couple of times with good results. Be careful with the heat!
 
Worst case scenario- you can take a die grinder with a long-reach cobalt bit and grind the head(s) off the offending screws. Then after you remove the cylinder you can remove the threaded portion with vise grips and heat. I had to do this once on an 090.


this, or drill the heads off.
 
As SawDr. and others noted, a rap on the end of the bolt often works wonders. If you do want to try alternating heat and lube, you might try substituting a 50:50 mix of ATF and acetone for WD40.
 
Striking a bolt or machine screw always helps break them free, I have resorted to using a very sharp cold chisel to make contact with the side of the machine screw in cylinder bolts, work it with lighter taps first to start a cut/notch and then a good sound hit to start it moving, then take over with a tight fitting allen or torques bit to fully remove them. I have completely snapped off the best quality drive bits removing over stressed cylinder base screws but never stripped out the drive socket so badly that the screws are not removable.
Pioneerguy600

I think the chisel and strike might be the ticket on one of the bolts. The other 3 are going to be tough to get anything to them. I figures that even if I began to round the drive socket, I could always go to the next larger allen or torques. Thanks for the help.
 
Worst case scenario- you can take a die grinder with a long-reach cobalt bit and grind the head(s) off the offending screws. Then after you remove the cylinder you can remove the threaded portion with vise grips and heat. I had to do this once on an 090.

I had considered that..................worst case. Thanks.
 
As SawDr. and others noted, a rap on the end of the bolt often works wonders. If you do want to try alternating heat and lube, you might try substituting a 50:50 mix of ATF and acetone for WD40.

I have had great luck with ATF on rusty bolts before but never tried acetone mixture, worth a try. Thanks.
 
Soak bolts with a high quality rust penetrator. With a long narrow screw driver clean out the hex cap head...alot of crap can build up in the caps. Pound in a tight 3/8 in. hex drive try by rachet 1st (I wouldn't try a breaker bar since you may snap the bolt). No movement try hand impact and apply heat. I have had good luck with a rust penetrator. I believe it breaks down the lock-tite and adds lube. Oh...also, the right $%#^ words seem to help!
 
You might be able to drill the head of the screw off. Use a bit approx the same (slightly larger) diameter as the screw. Drill until the head is removed. The hex hole will serve as a centering guide. A light touch will be needed to start the bit. I've used this technique on pumps, and it works well (most times)
 
I just had that problem on a husky weedeater I ported. I pushed down on the allen wrench and hit the ratchet hanle to turn it with a small brass hammer and it broke loose for me. good luck
 
A lot of WD-40 with a few heat and cooling cycles on the allen bolts via a propane torch.

Or a very long left hand drill bit and very long easy out.

A lot of WD-40 plus a long Torx, plus tapping into the allen head and hoping it grip for you while turn it out!

My .02

Mike
 

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