Depth gage height effect on cutting speed

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Raker heights


  • Total voters
    15
My 52cc Chinese saws have .325 chains on them, which is kinda small for them. Setting the depth gauges at .025 only works on brand new chains for me, after I sharpen the chain twice you need to push down on the saw to make it cut quickly with the depth gauges at .025, it doesn't self feed, with the depth gauges at .035-.040 they self feed and can bog if you push down on them too much while cutting. I can cut at about the same speed either way you just need to run the saw a little different. I have a stihl 2in1 file, it sets the depth gauges at .035 which works well for my saws after a couple sharpenings, I have also modded my regular depth gauge tool so it lowers them to .035 as that's what works for me.
If I had 3/8 chain on these saws I bet I'd need to set the depth gauges to .025, also if I cut drier harder wood I'd have to set them closer to .025 with the .325.
So long story short, set the depth gauges so your saw self feeds yet doesn't bog too easily in the wood your cutting, this is different for different sized saws, different chains and different types of wood.
 
I have an .025 and the 0.30 gauge and find little difference in which one I use. IMO, it is all about the chain cutters being sharp.
I agree ... a razer-sharp chain is a must ! I think there must be a relationship between torque and raker height ... too much- saw bogs ;too - little rpms up slower cutting ... the only way to know for sure is to experiment !
 
Over all there is no measurement that can be defined. When cutting hard wood that is very dry is completely different than cutting soft wood that is green. It would be the same question asked as to what gear would I use to go up a hill. How steep is the hill and is my load damp or dry. I use 100 CC plus saws with a short bar of 30'' so I can cut fast. Yesterday I was cutting clean Pine that was 60'' at the base so had my raker depth at least .050 which on a .404 is not extreme. When cutting dry Oak likely would back off a bit. Then the angles used is also a factor along with how big is the gullet. When cutting hardwood the cutting edge is a little more blunt than when cutting damp soft wood. So a well balanced set up will cut circles around a poor set up. The factory settings are a average set up that work well in MOST conditions. As one gets more experienced they will know what they want more of when they pull the trigger. Also on several saws I have I use different sprockets to match the chain speed I want which also effects chain set up. Thanks
 
I agree ... a razer-sharp chain is a must ! I think there must be a relationship between torque and raker height ... too much- saw bogs ;too - little rpms up slower cutting ... the only way to know for sure is to experiment !
I also think cutter tooth angle plays a role in getting the perfect depth raker.
 
I am like 2Dogs........I don't think even Stihl factory chain is at .025 right out of the box. But I have to say I've never stopped to check one. Someone can weigh in here who has checked it perhaps.

I've used a tilt box for years to check for consistent drop. This has it's own problems, notably the bar is never perfectly level, so you can't really check the drop consistently from cutter to cutter. I'm going to set my tilt box to zero on a filing vise and see if I can get consistent readings, and it will get interesting when I'm filing using a 2 in 1.
 

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