Hampton1825
ArboristSite Lurker
All fixed! TSC had a set in the right sizes. Included the 3/4" side that goes on the engine and the 7/16th that goes on the pump side and the rubber bushing. All for $8. Back online and splitting! Thanks again guys!
All fixed! TSC had a set in the right sizes. Included the 3/4" side that goes on the engine and the 7/16th that goes on the pump side and the rubber bushing. All for $8. Back online and splitting! Thanks again guys!
Upgraded my Didler splitter with 4" cylinder w/2" piston,11gpm pump, new valve w/ auto return, 10 gallon hydraulic oil tank & filter, 6.5 hp harbor freight motor that I converted to run on propane. The best thing about converting to propane is you don't finish with a headache from gas fumes
Reference the "Ship of Theseus": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_of_Theseus ...........
but in more familiar terms of today: If you inherited your grandfather's ax on which your father had replaced the handle and in your lifetime you replaced the head, is it still your grandfathers ax?
Powered by propane??? Got a video of it splitting to share?
Shari
Mine had ATF (maybe Dexton) when I got it. ATF will withstand more heat than hydraulic fluid. . I'm running TSC hydraulic fluid since I changed to a 10 gallon tank.What are you guys using for hydraulic fluid? The one I got is old! with a vertical shaft motor with the pump underneath, It came to me using Dextron 2????
That connection is called a lovejoy or a spider joint. It's a common item, available at Tractor Supply or the like. You likely will need to replace both sides (pump and engine) and the rubber spider in the middle. It's likely that the shaft size on the pump and the engine are different, so it's best to take the original off before purchasing so you can measure. Tractor Supply calls them Nova Jaws.
I ended up cutting mine into a bunch of pieces to get it off the pump shaft. Nothing else was getting that thing off.
Hope that helps!
Needed a Super Didier! Now i changed out the control valve yesterday to an Prince Auto-cycle. Man did the auto-cycle increase output. Might have to do video
I used this one from Surplus Center - # 9-6890 about 5 years ago, it works fine. I used the angle grinder & cut the tang off the base end so it just goes on the splitter the way the old one did. You have to modify the head end too, to make the push plate take a 1" pin.
what is wrong with your cylinderI see, yeah I might actually try one of the cheaper clevis ended ones. That cylinder is more than I paid for the whole splitter!!!
what is wrong with your cylinder
if the ram were bad it wood leak or bypass where it wouldn't move at all my guess is the bypass valve in the pump or the pump itself I rebulilt my ram the kit was 26.00 the pump you can buy on e-bay for around a 100.00 I bought my ram kit from northern hyd.hope this helps you out.I just bought this splitter. The fluid was crap, so I drained it and flushed the system with a good RO oil. Then the engine was dead and I put my standby Intek 206 on it. The ram moves, but has no power. The guy I bought it from said that it has been sitting for awhile. So I think water got in and contaminated the seals in the cylinder. So it will not even split a twig.
So, its either the pump, the cylinder or the control unit. Control unit is a Prince and looks to be in good nick. The pump looks like it has been removed and remounted. It is a barnes type. Any information will be helpful.
Thanks
Dave
I would check the pump before I'd do the ram - Can you post any pics?
if the ram were bad it wood leak or bypass where it wouldn't move at all my guess is the bypass valve in the pump or the pump itself I rebulilt my ram the kit was 26.00 the pump you can buy on e-bay for around a 100.00 I bought my ram kit from northern hyd.hope this helps you out.
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