Didier splitters

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blades

blades

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ATF will work fine in cold weather. Some mfg recommend it for all weather types. AW32 and universal tractor hydraulic fluid are a couple other choices. There are some that use straight oil ( mineral oil) in various weights as well. I have been using AW32 for some 20 years in my splitter- course now days it's a Harbor Franken splitter.
 
ErnieG

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ATF will work fine in cold weather. Some mfg recommend it for all weather types. AW32 and universal tractor hydraulic fluid are a couple other choices. There are some that use straight oil ( mineral oil) in various weights as well. I have been using AW32 for some 20 years in my splitter- course now days it's a Harbor Franken splitter.
Well today I made some progress ..
Got the new pump and coupler bolted on . I made a new safety shield to cover the motor shaft and coupler ...I don't have it bolted on yet though .
Took the valve apart and cleaned it to make sure there wasnt any metal in there . Everything looked good ..I got some measurements for new o-rings while I had it apart . My local suppliers didn't have the correct size so I just cleaned and put them back in . They didn't leak before so I'm hoping they are still ok to use .
I got the new cylinder bolted in place and the two supply lines connected to it . I ended up turning the rear cylinder line 180 with the bend down to make some room for the new filter . It looks better and should function just the same .
My new hydraulic tank should be done this week and then all thatis left is to connect the supply and return lines .
Once that's done I can extend the cylinder and weld the push plate to the end .
Here's some pics...
 

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pondnstream

pondnstream

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I finally got my Didier log splitter put back together and ran some tests. The hydraulic pump that I re-sealed with homemade gaskets and high pressure sealant hasn’t leaked. Unfortunately the spool valve has a small leak out the opposite end from the handle, despite new seals & o-rings being installed, disappointing, not sure what more I can do besides installing the new seals.

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cookies

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If it has bushings or bearings in the case that the shaft rides on their likely worn to the point the shaft has significant run out under load and the seal lip can not contain the oil. Use a dial indicator on the shaft ends, push on the shaft and rotate it to check run out. Was the shaft cut or worn where the seals ride? if so a spray weld job and some lathe time might get it back in shape.
 
Abbeville TSI

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My son-in-law was given a Didier splitter years ago. He replaced the B&S engine with a Predator (cough choke blasphemy) and it works well still.
What hydraulic oil filter should it use? It looks like a NAPA 1410 but it's been there on there so long that there are no numbers on it.
 
pondnstream

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My son-in-law was given a Didier splitter years ago. He replaced the B&S engine with a Predator (cough choke blasphemy) and it works well still.
What hydraulic oil filter should it use? It looks like a NAPA 1410 but it's been there on there so long that there are no numbers on it.
Remove the filter .
Carefully measure the dimensions
Find a matching size on the chart below:

https://wixfilters.com/Lookup/FilterBySize.aspx
 
Abbeville TSI

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blades

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If the ram is pitted it will need to be rechromed or replaced, in which case replacing the cylinder assembly wood be a better / cheaper choice. the pitted ram will just keep destroying the end seals causing leakage.
 
pondnstream

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If the ram is pitted it will need to be rechromed or replaced, in which case replacing the cylinder assembly wood be a better / cheaper choice. the pitted ram will just keep destroying the end seals causing leakage.
I agree w you that there could be leaking around the piston.
The reason I’m doubting cylinder’s leaking around the piston seals is that I :
-replaced all seals on piston and end seals on cylinder.
- honed out the inside cylinder wall until there wasn’t a scratch that my fingernail would catch on.

I have a 3000 psi gauge ordered and will install it between the pump and valve to see how much pressure I’m getting. The motor is a 5 hp gas so not huge and maybe that’s the issue. Without a pressure gauge I’m flying blind.

Is one gauge enough or is it beneficial to get a pressure reading at the “push” side of the cylinder in case somehow the valve is bypassing full pump pressure?
 
blades

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Piston vs cylinder wall is only 1/2 of the equation. If a piston seal goes you lose pressure due to by pass. ram seals cause a bit of this as well- but primarly is fluid being leaked all over in both forward and retract. worst case it will begin spraying it out. spring return not so bad but a cylinder that is double acting is pressurized in both directions independtantly . in the extend mode the piston is pressurized from behind- but you have a cylinder of fluid ahead of it. in retract you are pressurizing the head area of the piston forcing the fluid behind the cylinder out, this where there most leakage will be observed in a full cycle from the ram / cylinder seal as you appling apx 600-900 psi. Dosen't take long to abraid a ram/cylinder seal with a pitted ram. Hydro fluid ain't cheap.
 
pondnstream

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Piston vs cylinder wall is only 1/2 of the equation. If a piston seal goes you lose pressure due to by pass. ram seals cause a bit of this as well- but primarly is fluid being leaked all over in both forward and retract. worst case it will begin spraying it out. spring return not so bad but a cylinder that is double acting is pressurized in both directions independtantly . in the extend mode the piston is pressurized from behind- but you have a cylinder of fluid ahead of it. in retract you are pressurizing the head area of the piston forcing the fluid behind the cylinder out, this where there most leakage will be observed in a full cycle from the ram / cylinder seal as you appling apx 600-900 psi. Dosen't take long to abraid a ram/cylinder seal with a pitted ram. Hydro fluid ain't cheap.
New info:
When the splitter is cold, for about 2 minutes it will split these hard black-birch rounds. After this initial 2 minute period the power drops off and it won’t split a full round but it only has enough pressure to split a half or quarter round.

Now I’m thinking if it’s possible that the hydraulic fluid I used (universal tractor hydraulic fluid) is too thin and gets thinner after it heats up?
 
blades

blades

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I doubt that. heck they all run fine on ATF. might be a problem with the pump or the control valve. By pass function in the valve could be a culprit. need to get a gauge inserted in various sections to read pressure. Might not have all the air out of the system yet either. ifthere is a lot of bubbles in the tank got to wait a bit for them to dissipate. air in the oil will cause a problem like that
 

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