Diff between inboard and outboard clutch?

[Log Hogger]

Another thing about outboards

Swapping chains/bars is much easier on an inboard saw. Slip the old one off, slap the new one on, no thinking required. Maybe a single wipe with a rag to clear wood chip gunk out of the clutch cover area.

On an outboard clutch, you have to follow a series of steps; slide the bar towards the clutch, take the chain off starting at the bar nose, remove the chain from the clutch and fit it between the clutch and the saw body, curse, angle the chain just right squeeze it between the clutch and the saw body, load the chain up with saw chip gunk as it slides between the clutch and saw body, curse, and your done. Don't bother cleaning out the wood chip gunk, a simple swipe of a rag won't do it, you need compressed air.

If the bar is pinched on an outboard clutch saw, repeat the above process without being able to start with the chain off on the bar side, and be prepared with lots of original swear word combinations.

The clutch cover is also more complicated on an outboard clutch saw since it must house the chain brake. A PITA to clean compared to an inboard clutch saw.

As mentioned previously, the biggest drawback of an outboard clutch is the labor involved in swapping sprockets, it's not really something that can be done in the field. That Partner saw with the locking flywheel and scrench-removable clutch sounds awesome, I wish other manufacturers would implement a similar design. For my Stihls, I have a supply of e-clips on hand and I just cover the e-clip area with a rag when removing it, haven't lost one so far.

For all it's shortcomings, an outboard clutch wouldn't be a deciding factor on a saw purchase for me. In fact my next saw will probably be a 346XP.

 

[Cantdog]

I just replaced the oil pump line on one of my Dolmars that has an outboard clutch. Pull the clutch and there is the oil pump and oil lines.

If I need to that on the 372 or 365, then I can start by removing the chain brake. That's just a little time consuming.

No knocking either, just showing one difference between the two clutches.

Am I right to assume that the chainbrake doesn't come off with the cover on the 372 and 365? If so, then perhaps that's why I don't see the problem. On the saws that I have the chainbrake is in the cover and requires no extra effort to remove. As I said above those saws I mentioned are the olny ones I 've had to deal with so my experience is limited. The rest of my saws are inboard.

 

[smitty299]

I've milled about 70 logs with my outboard clutched, 076 with no clutch cover and had the clutch come off twice. Hunting for the clutch in amongst the mountain of milling sawdust is no fun, let alone the left hand thread nut. First time took 10 minutes second time took half an hour.

The simplest solution with the flying e clip is to keep a couple on hand. It's probably because I bought a 10 pack of them that I have never had to use one.

I don't understand how this is possible at all when the saw is in use the saw is tightening the clutch not loosening it. :monkey:

 

[Kansas]

I dont give it a second thought to me its absolutely no big deal where the clutch is at all.

If and when I need a clutch off (which isnt that often) I take it off and then turn around and put it back on its simple as that just a job that needs done so it gets done and I go on with life.


Kansas

 

[woodshed]

I dont give it a second thought to me its absolutely no big deal where the clutch is at all.

If and when I need a clutch off (which isnt that often) I take it off and then turn around and put it back on its simple as that just a job that needs done so it gets done and I go on with life.


Kansas

Well said. Not at all as big of a deal as some would want you to believe.

Scott

 

[oldsaw]

Am I right to assume that the chainbrake doesn't come off with the cover on the 372 and 365? If so, then perhaps that's why I don't see the problem. On the saws that I have the chainbrake is in the cover and requires no extra effort to remove. As I said above those saws I mentioned are the olny ones I 've had to deal with so my experience is limited. The rest of my saws are inboard.

No, it's kind of a cheesy arrangement when it comes to the oil pump. There is a copper tube that passes underneath the brake, and you have to pull the brake to get it out. Not that you have to do it often, but was just some poor engineering on their part. On my 066, the pump feeds into a galley molded into the case. A much cleaner and better method of doing it.

 

[Jtheo]

Am I right to assume that the chainbrake doesn't come off with the cover on the 372 and 365? If so, then perhaps that's why I don't see the problem. On the saws that I have the chainbrake is in the cover and requires no extra effort to remove. As I said above those saws I mentioned are the olny ones I 've had to deal with so my experience is limited. The rest of my saws are inboard.

No ,the clutch cover does not have a chain brake in it. The chain brake is built into the side of the saw. I have had to repair the brake on my used 372XP and the 365 because of a broken part.
It took me a while to do the first one, but the second one went a little easier.

I like the saws a lot, so the location of the clutch and chain brake on my saws is just what it is, and I talk them the way they come.
The location of the clutch would not be a determining a factor when I buy another saw.
Hopefully it will be a 346XP, outboard clutch and all.

 

[BobL]

I don't understand how this is possible at all when the saw is in use the saw is tightening the clutch not loosening it. :monkey:

That's what I thought but those supposedly counter rotating nuts can still come loose.

To par quote a guy on another forum

Vibration can and will do things that you might not think possible, especially if the induced frequency (engine) = the natural frequency of the object/part (nut bolt) in question. While the crankshaft of most engines are designed to help reduce damaging vibrations, Rotating shaft dynamics can become quite complex depending on the modes of vibration

On my 076 I set the torque to the recommended values with a calibrated engineers torque wrench - but the clutch still comes off every now and then - usually on a really hard log using rakers that are a bit too low and the saw is grabbing a bit more than it should.

The self locking arbor nut on my table saw has come loose a couple times. The first time was when I was cutting some acacia (very hard) and the wood kept grabbing the blade within the first 6" of cut and after about 3 partial grabs I stopped the saw - Bad mistake. This must have partially loosened the nut, then when I started it again the wood was still grabbing a bit and so there was no WHOMP like acceleration to tighten the nut, because the wood was still grabbing the loose blade, the resulting vibe further loosened the nut and I then foolishly pulled the wood back but by then the nut was so loose the blade started wobbling on the arbor, vibrating the table like mad and the blade started hitting the throat plate. I hit stop and ran for the door of the shed. The blade pinged and clanged around a few times and took some chunks out of the throat plate. Blade was OK but I switched to an Ally throat plate after that!

The other counter rotating locking nut I have see come loose is the nut holding a grinding wheel on. One likely time This can happen if the operator constantly stalls the wheel, a bit like the saw grabbing.

One thing I notice on my mills is that they lose different bolts and screws come loose depending on which saw I'm using.

 

[smitty299]

That's what I thought but those supposedly counter rotating nuts can still come loose.

To par quote a guy on another forum


On my 076 I set the torque to the recommended values with a calibrated engineers torque wrench - but the clutch still comes off every now and then - usually on a really hard log using rakers that are a bit too low and the saw is grabbing a bit more than it should.

The self locking arbor nut on my table saw has come loose a couple times. The first time was when I was cutting some acacia (very hard) and the wood kept grabbing the blade within the first 6" of cut and after about 3 partial grabs I stopped the saw - Bad mistake. This must have partially loosened the nut, then when I started it again the wood was still grabbing a bit and so there was no WHOMP like acceleration to tighten the nut, because the wood was still grabbing the loose blade, the resulting vibe further loosened the nut and I then foolishly pulled the wood back but by then the nut was so loose the blade started wobbling on the arbor, vibrating the table like mad and the blade started hitting the throat plate. I hit stop and ran for the door of the shed. The blade pinged and clanged around a few times and took some chunks out of the throat plate. Blade was OK but I switched to an Ally throat plate after that!

The other counter rotating locking nut I have see come loose is the nut holding a grinding wheel on. One likely time This can happen if the operator constantly stalls the wheel, a bit like the saw grabbing.

One thing I notice on my mills is that they lose different bolts and screws come loose depending on which saw I'm using.

Is the clutch on the 076 held on by a nut? i assumed the clutch was the nut like on a husky. my apologies sir :greenchainsaw:

 

[Ol' Brian]

Inboard/Outboard has absolutely no bearing for me also... it's really a non-issue.

Here's a few pics of an outboard clutch, ala Husky 395XP:

 

[turnkey4099]

inboard clutch saws are a crap load easier to yank away from a stuck bar & chain in a scary tree.

out board clutch saws run cooler clutches i would think..

Amen to that! First time it happened to me was on a Homelite 360 (one of the last pro saws they built). It was a case of getting the power head off or losing the saw when thebranch fell. Lot of struggling to get enough slack in the chain to pull the power head.

The ease of getting the head off an inboard clutch on a stuck saw way overshadows any advantage of an outboard clutch IMO.

Harry K

 

[BobL]

Is the clutch on the 076 held on by a nut? i assumed the clutch was the nut like on a husky. my apologies sir :greenchainsaw:

Yep it is the nut - jut like on a husky.

 

[Adirondack]

Does an inboard clutch help reduce vibration?

 

[Mike PA]

I know I have pinched saws in the past, and suspect I will do it again. I've popped the bar off, put on a new bar, and cut the old one out. I thought everyone did this until I saw a guy with a Husky hang his saw while felling a tree. We decided the pull the tree off the stump with my truck, so I backed up, hooked up the chain, and told him to pull the powerhead. He said he couldn't get it off and to not worry about it, just pull the tree. Fortunately the trunk missed the saw and the saw was not damaged.

I never realized there was a difference. Until that day, I didn't even know there were outboard clutches, as I always used Stihls. I have to think that this advantage alone is worth the inboard clutch. I guess saws have had outboard clutches for a long time, so it must be something a lot of people can deal with, but for me, I think I'll stick with inboard, because of this experience.

 

[BobL]

Does an inboard clutch help reduce vibration?

I doubt it.

 

[SawTroll]

I know I have pinched saws in the past, and suspect I will do it again. I've popped the bar off, put on a new bar, and cut the old one out. I thought everyone did this until I saw a guy with a Husky hang his saw while felling a tree. We decided the pull the tree off the stump with my truck, so I backed up, hooked up the chain, and told him to pull the powerhead. He said he couldn't get it off and to not worry about it, just pull the tree. Fortunately the trunk missed the saw and the saw was not damaged.

I never realized there was a difference. Until that day, I didn't even know there were outboard clutches, as I always used Stihls. I have to think that this advantage alone is worth the inboard clutch. I guess saws have had outboard clutches for a long time, so it must be something a lot of people can deal with, but for me, I think I'll stick with inboard, because of this experience.

He just didn't know how to do it - but the inboards sure are more convenient in this situation.

Using vedges, preferably before it happens, is a good idea......

 

[Zero Gravity]

Inboard/Outboard has absolutely no bearing for me also... it's really a non-issue.

Here's a few pics of an outboard clutch, ala Husky 395XP:

Thanks for the photo's You're doing good work. Nice clean saw.
ZG

 

[Sylvatica]

I am not saying that clutch configuration is not a legitimate issue for others, but it does not come into my consideration when selecting a saw. And if it did, it would rank below reliability, durability, power-to-weight, handling, air filtration, commonality with existing inventory, dealer support, cost.....

 

[oldsaw]

Does an inboard clutch help reduce vibration?

Actually it could help increase it if the imbalance was on the clutch end. The cause of the vibration would be farther from the axis of the saw. Just a theoretical issue with no real value.

 

[SawTroll]

Actually it could help increase it if the imbalance was on the clutch end. The cause of the vibration would be farther from the axis of the saw. Just a theoretical issue with no real value.

Yes, but nevertheless true - I thought about posting something similar, but I didn't, as I think the difference is extremly marginal......