difference in bar/chain oil??!!

[ShoerFast]

What color is the cap on that Husky oil?

You can believe whatever you want but if you traced that jug back to the factory, they probably all came from the same one. Maybe one side of the factory or the other. They all work the same. As mentioned before, the red oil is different. I don't care what the jug says, bar oil is bar oil. It all has the same purpose, and as long as it flows through the saw and has tackifiers, what is the difference. I have never heard of anyone burning up a chain because of a bad bar oil. I would trust Oldsaw on this subject, milling is where oil really matters. Not saying that logging doesn't matter, but milling is harder than any other chainsaw application.

Hay, I don't make the news, just report it, and out of those two oils,,,,as I can buy it here (central Colorado) the Stihl oil is a better run,,,,,, there within a dollar.

Milling is tuff,,,,and I have a lot of respect for Oldsaw, he knows that.

But for the fun of discussion, what is harder on bar/chains, a consistent tensions, or excessive speed?

What needs to run longer, a chain milling, that need a good touch up ever couple tanks, or a saw running a few tanks before touch-up?

My milling chains will ware the cutter off long before the heel and DL's get rounded off.

Another question of key importance is the use of an Aux-oiler, is dumping more, but a lower quality better then running less, but a better quality oil?

Another item is the use of 'Rim' sprockets over spur sprockets, as Rims will out last Spurs and be more oil-conserving.

Just offering my $0.02 cents worth, but oil is not the expensive part.

 

[leeave96]

I have used Stihl oil for years and years and years. I like it, no need to change now.

Bill

 

[bwalker]

Walmart super tech was $4.25 last time I bought it. The Stihl dealer now wants over 12 bucks for a gallon of bar oil.
I think I will stick to ST and buy a twelve pack of beer with the savings..

 

[oldsaw]

Hey, I wasn't claiming any expert status. Been real happy with Quaker State for $5/gal. You go through a lot of oil when milling.

Mark

 

[impactwrench]

Around here all priced the same:
Husky $7.99
Stihl $7.99
Other $7.98 (If your a Wal-mart you have to say your cheaper than others)

 

[tomtrees58]

oil

i used home depot just as good as stihl dut 4.99$ tom trees

 

[windthrown]

Well, y'all should be using:

Gary's Own brand of Premium Bar Oil. Made in the Puget Sound from fresh salmon oil and rendered beer cans, and has a "hint of oysters" when cutting wood. Only use the best! Gary's Own Premium Chainsaw Bar Oil. Buy some today :spam:

 

[windthrown]

And on a more serious note... I was raised using 30 wt oil in chainsaws. Then chainsaw bar oil came along. I used several types, including Husky, Stihl, and Poulan. I did not notice that much difference on the bar or chain stretch using any of them. I used some WalMart oil a while ago, and did not think that much of it. Not tacky enough, it seemed more like 30 wt. oil to me. Of late I tried Home Depot's Power Blend (I think it is) oil and that was OK. About the same as what I am using here now, called Durex. Durex is blended in Portland (not all chainsaw oil is made in KY, I am afraid) and said to have special anti friction additives, and special tackiness additives, along with red dye for making it easy to see if you ahve enough oil on your bar and chain. It is really tacky stuff; bugs stick to the drippings on the side of the bottle.

But I think I should really be using Gary's Own bar oil.

 

[Ole Farmerbuck]

I guess the Poulan I get from Orscheln Farm And Ranch here is different than other Poulan cause this stuff is thick and strings out a 1/4 mile! Well maybe not quite that far but it's pretty stringy. Its in a black jug with orange lable. Walmart and home depot dont carry it.

 

[windthrown]

Poulan stuff I used here was in a BRIGHT GREEN gallon oblong jug (same shape as the Husky stuff) and was not that noticably over tacky. No strings. I used several gallons when a farm store chain was dropping the line and offed it for $4 a gallon.

 

[PB]

Hay, I don't make the news, just report it, and out of those two oils,,,,as I can buy it here (central Colorado) the Stihl oil is a better run,,,,,, there within a dollar.

Milling is tuff,,,,and I have a lot of respect for Oldsaw, he knows that.

But for the fun of discussion, what is harder on bar/chains, a consistent tensions, or excessive speed?

What needs to run longer, a chain milling, that need a good touch up ever couple tanks, or a saw running a few tanks before touch-up?

My milling chains will ware the cutter off long before the heel and DL's get rounded off.

Another question of key importance is the use of an Aux-oiler, is dumping more, but a lower quality better then running less, but a better quality oil?

Another item is the use of 'Rim' sprockets over spur sprockets, as Rims will out last Spurs and be more oil-conserving.

Just offering my $0.02 cents worth, but oil is not the expensive part.

For the sake of discussion, I would say that milling would be harder due to the constant running of the rain at high RPM. When you are using a saw felling and bucking logs, you might be wasting more gas per tank when it is idling between cuts, and the constant revving up will use more gas. When milling I think the chain is moving more per working minute than a logging saw.

Hey, I wasn't claiming any expert status. Been real happy with Quaker State for $5/gal. You go through a lot of oil when milling.

Mark

Sorry, wasn't trying to speak for you. I just thought that you would spend the extra money for Stihl brand oil if you thought it would be worth it.

 

[Lakeside53]

Stihl uses "Paratac" as the tackifier. It's an expensive tackifier, but very good. It's used on conveyers, machine ways and other places you want lubricant to stick. I use Stihl winter weight oil on my lathe ways.. heck of a lot cheaper than the "correct product".

Check the MSDS for the other brands, and check the % of Paratac. Some are right up there with Stihl, some don't have it at all. There are other tackifiers, but Paratac is one of the best.

Stihl oil is virgin, not recycled or blended with other products used by the packager. Stihl would like us to believe it's better for the pumps.... and may well be overkill, but it is what it is. It will be interesting to see if Stihl and other so-called "premium" brands can hold the prices even close to reasonable with crude over $100 per barrel..

I have no idea the wear diffences for typicial cutting... chains wear out the cutters way before the tangs, and bars seem to last for years. Milling - you need every thing you can get from the bar oil... and bio is worthless for milling.

 

[windthrown]

It will be interesting to see if Stihl and other so-called "premium" brands can hold the prices even close to reasonable with crude over $100 per barrel..

It will be interesting to see if there is an econopmy left with oil over $100 a barrel.... :jawdrop: opcorn:

 

[Slamm]

So, where are we at here?

Do we agree that it doesn't make a hill of beans worth of difference what oil is used for typical firewood or logging type of saw use?

Milling is a different world.

I still haven't heard of anyone saying they had a failure directly related to oil no matter what the quality.

Sam

 

[ShoerFast]

4) Puland oil (from wally-world) I would rather run fish-snott if I could. Puland oil is by far the cheepest, about half the price of Stihl , but runs very hot in my saws, lots of 'black' dripping from the grove and tip suggesting metel is teansfering. And at altitude, it foams in the oil tank,,,,,, I call Puland expensive as it's only good for holding down dust in the driveway!

Well, y'all should be using:

Gary's Own brand of Premium Bar Oil. Made in the Puget Sound from fresh salmon oil and rendered beer cans, and has a "hint of oysters" when cutting wood. Only use the best! Gary's Own Premium Chainsaw Bar Oil. Buy some today :spam:

Soooo

Gary, there is hope for my 'fish snott' ?

 

[PB]

So, where are we at here?

Do we agree that it doesn't make a hill of beans worth of difference what oil is used for typical firewood or logging type of saw use?

Milling is a different world.

I still haven't heard of anyone saying they had a failure directly related to oil no matter what the quality.

Sam

Me either. It all works the same.

 

[windthrown]

Well, I noticed severe chain stretch on my trash 210 saw when I used plain 30 wt oil in it once. I would think that the less tacky oils out there would not run as well as a result, cause more bar and chain wear, and probably more stretch (from friction and heating up too much).

 

[Lakeside53]

Even if the "wrong" oil decreased bar life by 50%, would anyone notice?


What if high quality oil allowed you to use 50% less oil for for the same wear? Hey, price just doubled/halved..

So.. to throw another wrinkle - with the newer reduced output pumps... it might well matter more than some think.

 

[PB]

Even if the "wrong" oil decreased bar life by 50%, would anyone notice?

Probably not, but would spending an extra 3 or so dollars a gallon for "better" bar oil be justified? You would have enough money for a new bar saved after 20 gallons (thanks windthrown).

Edit: Oh I see, you go and add more while I was in the process of quoting you. I see how you operate.

 

[ShoerFast]

Even if the "wrong" oil decreased bar life by 50%, would anyone notice?


What if high quality oil allowed you to use 50% less oil for for the same wear? Hye, price juts doubled/halved..

So.. to throw another wrinkle - with the newer reduced output pumps... it might well matter more than some think.

No,,, I would not know when the bar was sposta ware out.

I worry more about shelling out the needle bearing in the clutch, taking out the crank-end. And the only bar-tips I replaced on my own saws were operator error.

I hand file bar rails, and will honestly say that there seems a differance in how much 'U' or knife-edge the chain will put in if you turn the oiler down too much or running drain-oil.