Cringworthy choice of clothes, but interesting comparison. Doesn't say much for the newer saw.
Does Husqvarna have an equivalent to Stihl's 026?
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I find the stihls fits much easier through the door and takes less space in my pick up's utility tool box. Even my 034 doesn't seem to take more space then a 346. I like to carry multiple saws in different sizes.
Not if you are cutting with it all day long .
I don't know anybody that could keep up with either saw running it full out in 50cc size wood probably not even close to an hour and if they tried good chance they would cut their leg off.
I'll keep my 026s, they run fine and not a PITA to work on like Huskyvamints
The 026 and ms260 are criticized for their poor air filter setup and rightfully so. They held onto this until the 261 came out.
Husqvarna realized their mistake early on with the 50 and went a proper filter/choke setup with the 51.
They also came in with their air injection system early on, a system that does actually work to keep most of the garbage away from the air filter.
As far as easiest saws to work on, my vote still goes to the Husqvarna 50-55's.
I do like the power to weight of my ms250, but is has my vote for most obnoxious saw to work on.
I've worked on an 024 super and it's not too bad, but it suffers from the same mickey mouse choke/air filter setup as the 026. They have a proper choke and air filter setup on the 250, but did nothing to keep the dust away from the filter.
A lot of choices in Husqvarna for a 50cc class saw, can't really go wrong with any of them.
A few nice ones here.
Husqvarna realized their mistake early on with the 50 and went a proper filter/choke setup with the 51.
They also came in with their air injection system early on, a system that does actually work to keep most of the garbage away from the air filter.
As far as easiest saws to work on, my vote still goes to the Husqvarna 50-55's.
I do like the power to weight of my ms250, but is has my vote for most obnoxious saw to work on.
I've worked on an 024 super and it's not too bad, but it suffers from the same mickey mouse choke/air filter setup as the 026. They have a proper choke and air filter setup on the 250, but did nothing to keep the dust away from the filter.
A lot of choices in Husqvarna for a 50cc class saw, can't really go wrong with any of them.
A few nice ones here.
Phecda
ArboristSite Member
Not sure why you think a 346 is hard to work on. They are pretty damn simple.
What in the world are you talking about. If any thing the better antivibe and increased torque of the 346 makes it less taxing to run.
You keep mentioning how much faster the 346 is like the 026's - 260's are totally duds and nobody in their right mind should have 1. I call that absolutely exaggerating to much.
So the anti vibe is better but a well maintained 026 or 260 anti vibe isn't bad and doesn't hurt or slow my oldish bones down and I don't see why it would be any more problem for an average age fairly healthy normal person.
The torque comes in as an advantage if that's the torquiest chainsaw you take to work. Seldom do i not have 1 to 3 higher displacement saws that blows away any 50cc torque with me when i have serious work.
What i was getting at my last post is . For most serious wood cutters that means cutting a fair or more amount of wood in a days work. If you work as fast as your saw will go you will not have the stamina to cut long enough to cut a days wood. It would be like trying to run 2 miles at your top speed. An average person would probably drop from exhaustion a couple to few hundred yards, little less or more. In the case of running a chainsaw good chance you would have a serious accident before dropping, either way you don't finish the race or days work.
That's a friends 46 1 1/2 ton chevy plow truck. Big straight 6 and duallys on the back with chains on all tires.I don't care about chainsaws at all anymore - tell me about the truck!!
Really? Perhaps you need a gym membership.
Say what you will, the 260 is an inferior saw to the 346. It's as simple as that.
I can't remember if the 346 is set up the same as a 350, but I friggin' hate having to pull the jug every time I want to pull the intake boot. That being said, I'd still take a 346/350 over an 026.
You think you can move your hind end fast enough to keep up cutting small trees, limbs, brush etc. full speed as fast as an 50cc saw can take wood working up and down steep ditch banks, hills, snowy slopes etc.? If u think so you are exaggerating in your own mind and better figure out your physical limits before you try it.
In reality I would bet your average saw user in a couple hours or more sawing would get as much cut with an 260 unless you were cutting larger wood in easy conditions.
Inferior in some ways and superior in other ways that is beyond your mind.
When I logged I did it all the time, only with a 372xp, MS440, and briefly with a 7900 and 288xp.
And the idea a slower saw with poorer AV makes things easier on the operator is just stupid.
Sorry I can't even imagine you were that fast and could endure it
Tjudging by my experience working with loggers and the various chainsaw work I have done.
Nobody said a poorer A/V makes things easier that i know of . And a slower saw is physically easier on the operator vs the same or heavier going faster such as cutting up limbs suspended in the air
I cut mostly with old heavy slow c series homelites mostly in my earliest years cutting for profit. Bought an 056 super , similar weight maybe a little lighter. When i went to cutting up limbs such as 10 inch and less into 16inch lengths it was like 20+ pounds I just caught falling into my hands every 2 or so seconds. With the slow homelites my body was relaxed longer through the cut and not near quickly fatigued catching the weight every few seconds or so
Granted, with back bent a slow cut is hard on the back but that is remedied with a long bar with sufficiently powerfull enough saw to pull it and a sharp chain, at least for me it is.
Enjoy your 346's. I usually prefer either a smaller saw for limbing and brush or a bigger saw for falling and cutting sizeable trees which is most what i do. My 026 usually rides back up and gets a round now and then AND gets out more when falling small to medium trees from lower parts of steep ditch banks where I often need to toss it when i struggle to get where I need to be. Been doing less of that these latter years.
Got a nice new 550xpg with heated handles for the frigid winter temps. I wonder if it will keep up with a 346?
A slower saw is not easier on the operator. In fact it takes more time and effort to run one...
If Inhad to run a 50CC saw all day at a good pace I sure as wouldnt take a 260 over a 346.
Also keep in mind that your wood in NW Ontario is incredibly soft. When I lived up there a 260 felt decent, but not great in that soft wood. When the wood becomes harder the 346 really pulls ahead.
I'm not from here, but I live here... LOL We definitely barely have much of anything that one would consider a hard wood until it's -40 and you are trying to cut something that's as much ice as it is wood. I definitely spent far more time running saws back home on the east coast than I have out here, I haven't done it as a day job out here yet.
Don't get me started for the locals affinity for running 16" or 18" bars on just about everything... 046? Yep, 266, 630, 670? Yep, with an 8 pin... Hell one of the guys I sharpen chains for just got a 592xp, runs an 18....
In Upper MI where I am from a 16" bar on a 066 or 288 was a popular firewood setup for the commercial guys.
Same saws with a 20 0r 24" bar max for falling.
Pretty well all 16 inch bars around here 18 inch for the big stuff .When your limbing a couple hundred trees in a day who would carry that 3 foot club hanging on the front of the saw around especialy when there is 3 feet of snow .
kash
kash
