Dolmar 5100S not oiling

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acbell

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Hi,

My Dolmar 5100S has stopped oiling of late. I pulled the plate off where the oil line comes in. It seemed clean in there. Someone mentioned a vent could be plugged. Where is the vent?

If I'm going to check the pump I have to take off the clutch assembly, but unlike my Stihl, which has a standard 19mm nut fitting, the Domar doesn't. Do I need a special tool to remove the 5100S clutch?

Thanks,
 
Yes a lot of the dolmar saws require there own clutch tool to remove it.
I know that Engine & Edge has a good selection of dolmar clutch tools.
I just got done making one last week.
I welded a 1/2" coupling nut onto a piece of cold roll 2"x3/8".
I used some 3/16 stainless round stock for the dowels to fit down in the clutch.
I will look to see where the tank vent is when I get home.

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Did it quit oiling on a real cold day? My old 5100 sheared the oil pump drive from being maybe -10 or so when I started it up. Not a big deal if you have a dealer close by to zip the clutch off and pop in the new part. After fixing mine I just let it idle for a while to warm up or put it in the cab of the truck.
 
Very nice pin wrench, Red.

Ac, if you get stuck use a block of wood and a couple drill bits.
Thank you, I just get tired of all the tools a guy needs nickel and dimin' you to death so I have actually made a few really helpful tools the last couple weeks with just a few dollars.

The drill bits and board are a good Idea.... I will remember that, Thanks!
 
Thanks to everyone for all the info.

I think it was like 0 when it stopped oiling.

How do I test the vent? It looks clean, but that's a teeny hole there. I bet it's the pump.
 
Thank you, I just get tired of all the tools a guy needs nickel and dimin' you to death so I have actually made a few really helpful tools the last couple weeks with just a few dollars.

The drill bits and board are a good Idea.... I will remember that, Thanks!

Glad it helped.

Another idea that works for open clutches is if you have an old spark plug socket laying around, you know one of the el cheapo jobbies. 13/16 would probably be best. Take the socket over to the grinder and grind in 3 prongs to fit the clutch shoes.

The block of wood and drill bit idea was used alot on the old Poulans and Homelites that had flat surface clutches. All you could see when you took the clutch cover off was the two holes in the face of the clutch. Good luck getting one of those tight clutchs off with a chisel...
 
I hear you about the need for certain tools that are not cheap. There was a great thread years back about making some of your own tools. Ideas that worked well for applications which are frustrating without the tool. I will look around and see if I can find anything. These threads may be gone because of the hack.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/need-help-splitting-case-on-my-066.40590/
The case splitter made from a piece of angle iron with a hole in it for the crank works slick with a two jaw puller.

Here are two really good references on bearings and how to get them out for repair;
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/installing-crank-bearings-using-heat.131284/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/crankshaft-bearings.87947/
 
The part number for the clutch tool is listed as 949.500.570 in the repair manual.
 

Attachments

  • 5000 5100S RepairManual.pdf
    1.7 MB · Views: 7
I have had two 5100s that quit oiling and the problem was the drive ends on the gear were worn down ( plastic) and did not engage the cluch drum ears. check that and replace the gear drive if that is the problem. Great little saws if you do the carb mods as is listed in this forum. Hopes this helps. Joe
 
Yep. That's what was wrong with my saw, too. Seems to be a design flaw :)
 
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