Double cut on a larger diameter log

[d3c3pti0n5]

Just wondering if anyone has ever used a smaller bar to cut half way through a larger log and finishing up with a second cut on the other side?

I have a friend that is needing a 30-32" diameter in half to make a bench out of. All I have is a basic alaskan mill and a 20 and a 30 inch bar. The log is about 5-6' in length.
I was just wondering what everyone's thoughts were. If I should rip it with the 20 on one side and then wedge it and go around the other side the same way.
I don't think he's looking for a premium smooth cut but I aslo don't want to scar it up more than I have to.

Thanks in advance for your comments and thoughts.

 

[Timberframed]

I don't see any reason why this can't be done. You have an open end mill so give it a go. If your jig is set up 100% parallel it should come out plenty flat Problems will be chip removal on the first cut though so watch out for the heat buildup.

 

[gumneck]

One big red oak I did last fall I with my 36" Alaskan had a large heeled over limb on the edge which I wanted to have in my board and I milled up to it. Unfortunately, I thought if I came out it from the other end of the log that I could get thru it. Poor decision on my part b/c the cut was off to the other end. Essentially taking another run down whole log to even up the cut.

Just my experience.

 

[d3c3pti0n5]

Thanks guys. I believe I'll try it anyways the worst thing that could happen is me learn from it. I will share the outcome...maybe even some pictures!

 

[marti384]

I have done it before, but found it hard to make as nice a cut as when making a cut all the way through. I think it is because with the small mill, the bar isn't supported on the far end, and it doesn't always stay parallel to the rails of the mill. So it can be hard to line up the cuts. As long as your not afraid of a little work with a hand plane, it will look just fine.

 

[Timberframed]

Hence router planing.

 

[Burlhunter13]

Hence router planing.

I second that one......waaaaaaay faster.

 

[Brmorgan]

Your best bet would probably be to use a Mini-Mill type affair and make the cuts vertically. An unsupported bar tip running horizontally will succumb to gravity, even if only slightly, but it will throw things off. I'd do a vertical cut, then roll the log 180°, line up the mill again (which will be a bit painstaking, but I'm thinking probably easier than with a horizontal mill unless you have a really wide guide board) and make the second cut. And ya, take it nice and slow with that bar tip buried.

Having said that, I second the router planing idea no matter which way you make the cuts, because no matter what they won't line up perfectly or be as smooth as a single pass cut. A bit time consuming if you have to take off a significant amount of material, but produces excellent results if you take the time to set up the jig really well.

 

[820wards]

Your best bet would probably be to use a Mini-Mill type affair and make the cuts vertically. An unsupported bar tip running horizontally will succumb to gravity, even if only slightly, but it will throw things off. I'd do a vertical cut, then roll the log 180°, line up the mill again (which will be a bit painstaking, but I'm thinking probably easier than with a horizontal mill unless you have a really wide guide board) and make the second cut. And ya, take it nice and slow with that bar tip buried.

Ditto on the mini-mill. I had one log that I wanted to split with my mini-mill that my 24" bar wouldn't pass through, so I made one pass, rolled the tree and then free hand cut the tree stump in half. I didn't have my big mill so I used what I had.

Here is how I would work a large diameter log. This is a much smaller diameter tree, but the principal is the same for a larger log or stump. Set the log up on high enough pieces to keep, if you have one, a log bar from passing through and hitting the dirt.

What I did to center the guide rail on the center of the tree stump was to cut two pieces of 3/4" plywood screwed at each end of the stump being mindful to keep the tec screws on either side of the center-line. In this picture, picture a piece of plywood set level and to the proper height to clear your log. I also screwed a piece of 1-1/2"x 1-1/2" to the plywood level with the top. This gave me something to screw my guide rail board to. Once the guide board was set I milled the stump to the depth my 24" bar would allow, removed the guide board and mini-mill from the saw, rolled the stump over and free-hand cut the stump in two.

If you have a long enough bar, you could make the cut in one pass that would look something like this. If your are careful free-hand cutting using wedges as you mill and free-had cut, it should not take much to finish the log.

Hope I've given you some ideas that may work.

Having said that, I second the router planing idea no matter which way you make the cuts, because no matter what they won't line up perfectly or be as smooth as a single pass cut. A bit time consuming if you have to take off a significant amount of material, but produces excellent results if you take the time to set up the jig really well.

Can't speak to router plainer method, but I'm thinking a good cut in the field would minimize your finishing work in your shop.


jerry-

 

[gemniii]

Did y'all forget that video (I'm pretty sure it was posted on this forum) of the guy in some foreign country cutting lumber while barefoot?

That's the way to do it

/edit - found it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02QWRo1W4II

 

[820wards]

Did y'all forget that video (I'm pretty sure it was posted on this forum) of the guy in some foreign country cutting lumber while barefoot?

That's the way to do it

/edit - found it

MY LIFE IN THE PHILIPPINES VOL.14 LUMBER CUT BY CHAIN SAW - YouTube

Forgot about this guy, wonder if he still has all his toes?

jerry-