superjunior
Addicted to ArboristSite
looking at the pics again it looks like you can block or but hitch another 10ft off that spar. you should be able to lay that over the walk. just watch when that holding wood snaps the but is going to jump
Drop this spar?
- Thread starter TreeAce
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arborjockey
ArboristSite Guru
This should of ended this forum.
I saw the? Then I saw the tree. What's the problem block that s.o.b down.
1 sheet of ply for the siding of the house the 2nd on the sidewalk in case of bouncing. Id man up and drop 2' bombs into that ivy but that's me.
Worst case scenario run a VERTICLE SPEED LINE no bounce.
This is a warning next easy 1 gos straight to the question and answer homeowner forum.:hmm3grin2orange:
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
+1 on the above.
No question there for me, especially if the HO is concerned about the lawn/pathway. As above I'd be putting ply on the siding, and a crash pad of limbs to block down into the ivy. I wouldn't fuss with a vertical speedline. I'd be setting a 'barrier' around the area, made up of chunks as they come down to prevent bounce/roll. Have her done easy before lunch, even without a cup of coffee in the morning. If you were on a mission you could git 'er done in a couple hours. Allow plent of time for ripping if you have to feed that barrel through a chipper. I'd say 4-5 hours to rip her enough to feed through an 18" including time to manually get the barrel out to the street with a trolley. Less if you have a skidder or are simply loading the logs into a truck without chipping.
Shaun
No question there for me, especially if the HO is concerned about the lawn/pathway. As above I'd be putting ply on the siding, and a crash pad of limbs to block down into the ivy. I wouldn't fuss with a vertical speedline. I'd be setting a 'barrier' around the area, made up of chunks as they come down to prevent bounce/roll. Have her done easy before lunch, even without a cup of coffee in the morning. If you were on a mission you could git 'er done in a couple hours. Allow plent of time for ripping if you have to feed that barrel through a chipper. I'd say 4-5 hours to rip her enough to feed through an 18" including time to manually get the barrel out to the street with a trolley. Less if you have a skidder or are simply loading the logs into a truck without chipping.
Shaun
arborjockey
ArboristSite Guru
I love the verticle speedline but never get to use it. The 1 time I did worked out great. To much set up time. Besides wheres the thrill in this industry if you don't take some risk.
Between the path and the little house seems to be about a 6' x 12-15' ivy area that the bombs over Tokyu would be raining on.
Love the just murph it comment. This could turn into proper arborist nomenclature. " ah crap I thought that log would of had less impact on the brick. Can't believe I MURPHED it like that what was I thinking" Murphed it all up." it was leaning towards the drive can't believe he MURPHED it on the house"
Between the path and the little house seems to be about a 6' x 12-15' ivy area that the bombs over Tokyu would be raining on.
Love the just murph it comment. This could turn into proper arborist nomenclature. " ah crap I thought that log would of had less impact on the brick. Can't believe I MURPHED it like that what was I thinking" Murphed it all up." it was leaning towards the drive can't believe he MURPHED it on the house"
Murph is becoming its own term around here reminds me of this Family Guy episode.
[video=youtube;GAld6rNQpnc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAld6rNQpnc[/video]
TreeAce
Addicted to ArboristSite
Do you understand what happens if I fck up the siding or the walk way? I doubt it. It looks a little different in real life btw. There are roots in that ivy to think about also. If a chunk bounces into the plywood leaning against the house it would likely still do alittle damage. I consider scuffs,dings,and small dents as damage. I guess I just think like an owner, ya know....the guy who is ultimately responsible for everything.
TreeAce
Addicted to ArboristSite
although the vertical speed line is note worthy , no doubt there.
TreeAce
Addicted to ArboristSite
And before this thread goes totally off the tracks....take note of the title. I was just looking for thoughts concerning laying that log across that walk way. Thats all. The title doesnt say "OMG PLEASE HELP" I already know I can bomb it into the GD ivy, I know about vertical speed lines, And I sure the fck know about rigging down large spars. It is a worth while question to ask considering what a time saver it would be.
Treetom
ArboristSite Guru
Plenty of knowledge and advice. I've just cut thin "Fisbee" disks all the way down in similar situations. Good luck and work safe, TreeAce. Looking forward to the solution and pics.
Toddppm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Too bad we have to Murph'n wait 2 more weeks to find out how you Murph it down. Make sure you take video with plenty o' commentary.
:msp_laugh:
you could build some cribbing on either side of the walk way and lay a big tractor tire on the side walk just in case. large tires work wonders.....you could always try your local public works yard, that's what i have done in the past, they seemed to be more than happy to give them away instead of letting them sit around. i got to big john deere loader tires from my local PW and used them a couple times.
Bridge the sidewalk. Since you have some time, see if you can find some tires.
The other option to consider is flying Murphy out first class with hotel accommodations. :hmm3grin2orange:
The other option to consider is flying Murphy out first class with hotel accommodations. :hmm3grin2orange:
not trying to jack your thread but here's one we layed out across a side walk with no problems.
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/477790_10150839600116932_447909579_o.jpg
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/477790_10150839600116932_447909579_o.jpg
Murph Yeah!!!
arborjockey
ArboristSite Guru
Ring the alarm the spars are dropping like we're in Murphsville county....or sumfin
Convexed side up. Head of that spar looks like she might have clump the grass up a little....just sayin
uttahere2:Can't start a forum with pics and not take some heat. Somebody could drop a 200' redwood between two Rolls Royce dealerships and some fly by night would say its basic tree work.
Rip Tomkins said (after degrading the position) a good groundman is better then a great climber. This is what he gets paid for not just processing brush. He needs to be damage control. As a climber you should shoot straight up and dismantle the last branch. The G.M takes all that brush and makes the crib. Unless were missing a huge tree that's right next to it that can be rigged off of?
1-Two pieces of 6" thick foam with a piece of 1/4" ply in between works good to control inertia.
2-Pile the brush up then put a heavy cavas on top. I use 2 cut and stiched together duffle bags. Then when the round hits you don't fight through the brush to get it.
3-Do the math for 1/3 the height of the tree make the cut and flop big sections in the yard.
Im with blue mt. Shaun rip it and man handle the pieces.
Or wait I can be there in 3 weeks
Hard to see from the pics but you may need to dynamite that Korean Elm....just sayin
2 pieces. Of foam
That was an easy one though!!
your right, it was pretty easy...just an example.
Ring the alarm the spars are dropping like we're in Murphsville county....or sumfin
Convexed side up. Head of that spar looks like she might have clump the grass up a little....just sayin
Can't start a forum with pics and not take some heat. Somebody could drop a 200' redwood between two Rolls Royce dealerships and some fly by night would say its basic tree work.
Rip Tomkins said (after degrading the position) a good groundman is better then a great climber. This is what he gets paid for not just processing brush. He needs to be damage control. As a climber you should shoot straight up and dismantle the last branch. The G.M takes all that brush and makes the crib. Unless were missing a huge tree that's right next to it that can be rigged off of?
1-Two pieces of 6" thick foam with a piece of 1/4" ply in between works good to control inertia.
2-Pile the brush up then put a heavy cavas on top. I use 2 cut and stiched together duffle bags. Then when the round hits you don't fight through the brush to get it.
3-Do the math for 1/3 the height of the tree make the cut and flop big sections in the yard.
Im with blue mt. Shaun rip it and man handle the pieces.
Or wait I can be there in 3 weeks
Hard to see from the pics but you may need to dynamite that Korean Elm....just sayin
2 pieces. Of foam
1. your right the head of the spar dug into the yard a bit. but thats what dirt and seed are for.
2. im not a huge fan of dropping big wood on top of a brush pile.
Slvrmple72
Addicted to ArboristSite
Lay a bunch of plywood across that walk, put a big smile in her that will keep the hinge almost the whole way down, and pull with a line. Set your stump height against the lay height to soften the blow to the walk. Ground is defn. fkn wet now so shes gonna stick.
I know right where ya are coming from Doug! Had a swayed Red Oak right behind the house, BIG, and only way to drop it was right along the back length of the house with all the top pcs for a barricade. Heart was pounding in my chest on that one! Good Luck!
I know right where ya are coming from Doug! Had a swayed Red Oak right behind the house, BIG, and only way to drop it was right along the back length of the house with all the top pcs for a barricade. Heart was pounding in my chest on that one! Good Luck!
arborjockey
ArboristSite Guru
:msp_thumbup:
#2 Me either. I prefer clean limbs. Tying in out. Like railroad ties.
Drop the log on the bush pile. Then start screaming at the newbies to get the brush pulled out...pronto. :biggrin:
#2 Me either. I prefer clean limbs. Tying in out. Like railroad ties.
Drop the log on the bush pile. Then start screaming at the newbies to get the brush pulled out...pronto. :biggrin:
