Easy Oiler mod (for more oil)

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I finally got fed up with not getting enough oil to the B/C when cutting really hard wood so i called Mike at Midwest Stihl and asked if there were any other oilers that would fit and he said no. He said I would have to build a bigger one or mod the one I have, so I started tearing it apart. He said I could trim some off the head of the adjuster so i could turn it a little further. I looked at the inner end of the adjuster and figured out where it would have to sit to give the oiler piston/rotor maximum travel, and grouond the head to that angle. I also took a couple thousandths off the inner end peg just to make sure it had all the travel it could get. Put it back together and put 200 revs on the drum by hand and the oil port/slot were full of oil!!!! It couldn't do that before!!!! Now to try it in the morning.....when people are awake.....my wife said the could hear me cutting an oak down today and she was in the house and I was out in the old quarry!!!!!! Everyone within 2 miles can tell when I am cutting!!! popcorn: The green is the part that was trimmed/ground. I used a small piece of rope in the cylinder to get the clutch off....
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Great idea, I ended up grinding some off of the stopper on the pump itself so the screw would turn farther w the dremel
 
Ok, found the info. an important remark about the string trick. turn the crank until the cylinder peaks and then go counterclockwise a smidge to feed in your string. I was concerned about stress due to poor alignment. I was imagining my hand on my wrench almost a foot away from the shaft w/ internal parts holding it w/ much less leverage. I was also worried about the string getting caught in a port or pinched somehow along piston- not much experience there.
Also have an impact wrench. see what happens

When you tighten it back up make sur you pull out the pull start rope so it doesnt put stress on the recoil assembally.
 
I noticed the link to this thread that I left in the thread I had going wouldn't work, so made a reply to this thread to bring it back on the main page. Great idea. I'll be doing the mod tomorrow.
 
I jus added a 460r oiler to my 361 and its much better, there's no burns on the bar like it used to, so I finally think this fixed it.
 
I've been searching AS for longer than I'd like to admit. I've never been satisfied with the oiler on one of my Huskys and I'd like to try to increase its output. Is there any chance the pics in this thread can be restored @isaaccarlson ? Hoping maybe they can give me some ideas to try a mod of my own. Any other info or thread links are welcomed. TIA
 
Has anybody ever seen the husky Oem oiler for a 365/372 that only has 3 adjustment points? Off, turn the screw and you feel it hit a stop, the turn it one more time and it hits another stop and it is maxed out. Oiler is either off, on low, or on high.

Part number is same for the 365 and 372 but my brand new 372 oiler does not have any stops when you turn the screw. You can set it anywhere between closed and wide open.
 
Has anybody ever seen the husky Oem oiler for a 365/372 that only has 3 adjustment points? Off, turn the screw and you feel it hit a stop, the turn it one more time and it hits another stop and it is maxed out. Oiler is either off, on low, or on high.

Part number is same for the 365 and 372 but my brand new 372 oiler does not have any stops when you turn the screw. You can set it anywhere between closed and wide open.
My 372 never seems to get enough oil even with the screw turned all the way out. How about yours?
 
My 372 oils fine with a 24 inch bar. I have it opened all the way. I have only had the saw for a month so I don't have that much time using it.

The 365 does not oil enough but the oem oiler I got is different than what is on the 372.
 
Thank you for the reply. Maybe I am expecting too much, but my 372 just doesn't fling out as much oil as other saws that I have ran, and the bar does turn brown.
 
The 3 position oiler is usually what's on a 385/390

the 3 position oilers are on newer 385's and 390's. the older 385's never had the 3 position. i have never seen a 3 position oiler on any other that take that same oiler. it also does not have an off setting. it's low, med, and high. i run a 33" bar on 372's and the oilers on them do just fine. if someone thinks they don't oil enough i think they have another issue they don't know about. with oiler on high the oil tank is drained same time as fuel with mine which is the way it should be.
 
the 3 position oilers are on newer 385's and 390's. the older 385's never had the 3 position. i have never seen a 3 position oiler on any other that take that same oiler. it also does not have an off setting. it's low, med, and high. i run a 33" bar on 372's and the oilers on them do just fine. if someone thinks they don't oil enough i think they have another issue they don't know about. with oiler on high the oil tank is drained same time as fuel with mine which is the way it should be.


I bought it off eBay and the part # on the oiler and the part # on the plastic bag it came in matched the part number in my spare parts manual. 503-52-1305 is part #. Jacks small engines listed this as the part # for my 365 as well.
 
My Jonsered 2159 had the same 3 position oiler but I don't have any issue with it. It drains a full tank of oil for every tanknof gas when set in this highest setting. With a 18 or 20" bar thats plenty of oil. Ibwas skeptical of it at first but as long as it pimps a tank of oil for every tanknof gas I think it's adjusted prioerky, if not something is wrong. I'm interested in your mod and wonder if you can make it fully adjustibe like the older style oilers...
 
I'm lucky if I go through a 1/2 tank of oil per fuel and it's maxed. I have already checked off all the usual fixes. @ this point I'd like to try a mod.
I have three 346s' , two 357s' and a couple 359s'. No oiling shortage with any of them. Use almost a full tank of oil for a tank of fuel. Must be something wrong?

Now, I do drill out the oil holes in the bars if they come with the tiny hole.
 

Take out the pin (64 30) slide the adjuster bolt out of the way. Take out the piston. Grind and polish the angled end so it has more ramp (angle). Grind the notch on the end to scoop more oil. It doesn't take much more .030 or .040". Drill the holes in the pump body to .101".
 
all worm driven oilers are much the same. only mod i have ever tried is to steep'n the piston face taking off minimal amount and that was years ago. IIRC it was on a stihl 025 and it worked great. needed to lube my piltz setup LOL a little steeper goes a long way too. i can't think of any other way to mod an oiler
 
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