Echo 360T what is correct L- H settings ?

[keithh255]

Hi All; The Story.....3 weeks ago this saw would idle but not run up, adjusters not helping due to platic stops. The plastic stops allowed carb adjustments of 1/2 turn only.
After some work I have managed to remove plastic stops on the Walbero 739 carb that came with the echo saw from hd. I did this in order to have better control of the adjusters.
Anyways, as I have recently gotten my stihl 26 going.( carb problems) I figured the echo should be fairly easy to get going also.
After a good cleaning and before putting the carb back into the saw, I checked the # of turns the carb was set to and it came to 2 1/2 turns approx for both H and L.
After the cleaning I could start it and it seemed to want to idle and run up but it shortly bogged out like a no gas situation and died. Once I got the choke set again, 2 pulls and it wanted to go. Well, same as above,, seems to want to run but dies shortly.
Im not sure if I have the L-H set right but cannot seem to find this info. I called Echo repair 1- 800 and their people say bring to a repair depot , sorry, only 30 days warranty on carb adjustments..no further info available except whats on their web site.

Question, Could I use the 1 turn out rule that I use on other saws and adjust from there?

Also, what tool do I need to be sure Im not going over the correct rpm,s for this saw?

Thanks to all....Keith
[email protected]

 

[mountainlake]

I think some of the newer carbs have finer thread on the screws so 2-1/2 might be right, try 3 it can't hurt. Cliff should be along soon, he has a 360t. Steve

 

[jeeptj19992001]

check your hoses, sounds like you have a crack in one of them

 

[keithh255]

re Cracked hoses

HI. This saw seems to have only one hose which sits in the back wall leading to the gas tank. You have to push the carb inlet onto it.
Otherwise, no other hose to speak about. I do see the connect off the carb that prob would go to a impulse hose ( like my Stihl would) but no hose , never was one now that I think about it.
Well guys, I'll get back later and see if Steve has any ideas...

Thanks Keith
[email protected]

 

[mountainlake]

HI. This saw seems to have only one hose which sits in the back wall leading to the gas tank. You have to push the carb inlet onto it.
Otherwise, no other hose to speak about. I do see the connect off the carb that prob would go to a impulse hose ( like my Stihl would) but no hose , never was one now that I think about it.
Well guys, I'll get back later and see if Steve has any ideas...

Thanks Keith
[email protected]

Keith, I think your waiting for Cliff, I've never worked on a 360. Some carbs are set up with the impulse comeing through a hole in the base of the carb, if yours is like that make sure the gasket lines up with the hole. It sure seems like once these small carbs get dirty they're hard to get clean. Steve

 

[Cliff R]

We have a CS-360T, and it was very difficult to set the carb. I didn't count how many turns we ended up with, but I used the same procedure that I would for any other saw.

Set both screws out about 1.5 turns from lightly seated. Start the saw and set the idle speed and the low speed mixture screw first, find the highest and smoothest idle setting, then go rich just enough so that the engine slows slightly.

Test the throttle several times, to make sure it revs clean and quickly. At this point, you may have to set the high speed screw just a tad rich to start with, it can be leaned up later.

Next, do some full throttle no load testing, just for a few seconds each time. When at WOT the engine should be "four stroking". The problem with the CS-360, is that it has a reve limiting module, and will "four stroke" even if the mixture is lean. You simply have to start out with the high speed screw a bit rich, so the saw is down slightly on power, and four stroking pretty early in the rpm range. Then start leaning it up, and make a few test cuts while doing so. With each cut, the engine should smooth out and rpm's will increase some. Here in lies the problem with the rev-limiter. It will come in and fool the tuner into thinking the saw is still rich, as you reach the "crossover" point between best power and the safest lean setting for the high speed screw.

I must have worked with this saw for 3-4 tanks of fuel before I found the most ideal settings. The low speed screw has never been touched since the first time the saw was tuned. It idles perfectly, and revs clean and smooth. It's the high speed screw that takes some work.

I would er on the rich side and work it right up to the rev limiter, rather than going lean at any point.

I would also mention that it was a BIG wake up call for our 360 when the muffler was modded. It was a real PITA, but once the catalyst was removed, and the internal muffler ports opened up a bit, this saw really turned into a little "beast"!......Cliff

 

[keithh255]

Cliff

Thanks a big bunch for that write up...I will have to take my time on this. I guess my stihl 26 will take up the bulk of work next 2 weeks.
You the man !! :yourock:


Thanks Keith