Too bad Chris-PA wasn't cutting with us. He wouldn't have had to ask why the 590 is twice the saw. LOL
Or Rockjock. Steve
Or Rockjock. Steve
Echo 590 lean adjust?
- Thread starter corey006
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James Miller
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My dealer setup my 590 when I bought it. Never ran a 029/290/291, but it will run away from a 455 husky. Speed doesn't meen much to me as I'm just heating the house so stock it stays for the long haul. 
does great in big wood to.
does great in big wood to.
The CS-590 just needs a little help, total time to get one right out of the box ready for service is under an hour.
Remove the muffler BEFORE running the saw, and be careful not to knock the gasket off the muffler as it usually sticks to the muffler rather than the jug.
The two lower torx screws have Loctite on them so they come out pretty hard, the other two are under the cover held down by a single torx screw. (I use Loctite on all of the fasteners when re-assembling)
Remove the deflector, on the CS-590 it will be two pieces spot welded together. Gently clamp one side of it in a soft jawed vise and cut the out portion away till it matches the square exit hole in the muffler with a tapered carbide bit. The muffler is fine, needs nothing done to it. During the process of cutting away the deflector about 8 out of 10 times the vibration break the spot welds and it becomes two separate pieces. This makes the job even easier as you can then walk the deflector over to a bench grinder and gently remove the raised portion which leaves a square hole in it matching the muffler exit. It's really not fussy and the entire process takes about 2 minutes.
Next remove the air filter cover, air filter and two long screws that attach the carb to the intake. Slide the choke shaft grommet out of it's matching hole and remove it from the carb. Remove both fuel lines and rotate the carb to remove the throttle link. Once the carb is on the bench take a drywall screw and remove the sharp tip from it on the bench grinder. Engage one or the other of the plastic covers over the L or H screw, then pry up on it with a pair of wire cutters. This will remove the plastic limiter and the retainer over it. Engage the other plastic limiter if it didn't come out with the retainer. Take both covers over to the bench grinder and very gently removed the raised portions on them so they no longer have a limiting feature.
Push them back in place, gently tap the retainer back over them with a screwdriver handle, and the carb is ready to go back on. I use a very small amount of RTV between the carb and filter housing, and a little more between the filter and housing to seal thing up nicely as the factory uses no gaskets or seals in either location.
The L screw is usually pretty close right out of the box, but the H screw is really lean, usually at 1/8 to 1/4 turns out from seated. I set them at 1/2 turn for initial "run-in", then fine tune the L and H screws after the saw is fully up to temp.
Most H screws end up around 5/8 to 3/4 turns out from seated, adjust the L screw for best idle quality just off the lean "tip-in" point, or basically just turn it in till highest rpms, then back about one screwdriver blade or so till engine just slows up a tad.
The CS-590 has a limited coil, so you may need to start out a tad rich with the "H" speed screws and sneak up on the best setting.
I just set up a CS-590 yesterday right out of the box and the entire process took less than an hour, including setting the carb at the woodpile.......Cliff
Remove the muffler BEFORE running the saw, and be careful not to knock the gasket off the muffler as it usually sticks to the muffler rather than the jug.
The two lower torx screws have Loctite on them so they come out pretty hard, the other two are under the cover held down by a single torx screw. (I use Loctite on all of the fasteners when re-assembling)
Remove the deflector, on the CS-590 it will be two pieces spot welded together. Gently clamp one side of it in a soft jawed vise and cut the out portion away till it matches the square exit hole in the muffler with a tapered carbide bit. The muffler is fine, needs nothing done to it. During the process of cutting away the deflector about 8 out of 10 times the vibration break the spot welds and it becomes two separate pieces. This makes the job even easier as you can then walk the deflector over to a bench grinder and gently remove the raised portion which leaves a square hole in it matching the muffler exit. It's really not fussy and the entire process takes about 2 minutes.
Next remove the air filter cover, air filter and two long screws that attach the carb to the intake. Slide the choke shaft grommet out of it's matching hole and remove it from the carb. Remove both fuel lines and rotate the carb to remove the throttle link. Once the carb is on the bench take a drywall screw and remove the sharp tip from it on the bench grinder. Engage one or the other of the plastic covers over the L or H screw, then pry up on it with a pair of wire cutters. This will remove the plastic limiter and the retainer over it. Engage the other plastic limiter if it didn't come out with the retainer. Take both covers over to the bench grinder and very gently removed the raised portions on them so they no longer have a limiting feature.
Push them back in place, gently tap the retainer back over them with a screwdriver handle, and the carb is ready to go back on. I use a very small amount of RTV between the carb and filter housing, and a little more between the filter and housing to seal thing up nicely as the factory uses no gaskets or seals in either location.
The L screw is usually pretty close right out of the box, but the H screw is really lean, usually at 1/8 to 1/4 turns out from seated. I set them at 1/2 turn for initial "run-in", then fine tune the L and H screws after the saw is fully up to temp.
Most H screws end up around 5/8 to 3/4 turns out from seated, adjust the L screw for best idle quality just off the lean "tip-in" point, or basically just turn it in till highest rpms, then back about one screwdriver blade or so till engine just slows up a tad.
The CS-590 has a limited coil, so you may need to start out a tad rich with the "H" speed screws and sneak up on the best setting.
I just set up a CS-590 yesterday right out of the box and the entire process took less than an hour, including setting the carb at the woodpile.......Cliff
PS: I also forgot to add that I add about half a teaspoon extra oil mix to the first tank, and use 2 gallons of 92-93 octane fuel to one bottle of mix instead of 2.5 gallons. Been doing this for decades and ZERO issues with a P/C on any of my saws......
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
OP, pay close attention to Cliff's comments above. He nailed it and answered your question. I have the 590,600 and just sold a 620(pretty much the same saw). All run on 40/1 and tuned according to the advice above.
I am placing an order to Baileys, I was wondering if this bar will fit Echo 590 ....it does match up with 562XP but Baileys doesn't seem to provide fitment info on Echo saws?
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...ch-Chainsaw-Bar-72-Drive-Links-208RNDD009.axd
I am also ordering Stihl chain that will fit my 562XP....will this chain fit sprocket on 590??
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...in-Loop-35RS-72-Drive-Links-3622-005-0072.axd
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...ch-Chainsaw-Bar-72-Drive-Links-208RNDD009.axd
I am also ordering Stihl chain that will fit my 562XP....will this chain fit sprocket on 590??
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...in-Loop-35RS-72-Drive-Links-3622-005-0072.axd
Idahonative
Addicted to ArboristSite
Great post Cliff. Not sure if the 590 is different than the 600 series as far as tuning the H. But I just want to give some input on tuning the 600 & 620 at elevation because it will be much different than the figures you have posted for the 590. Running 40:1 no eth mix:
At 2500' elevation:
600p (MM & tune) - 1/4 turn CCW from seat. Four strokes and cleans up in the cut at 12,500 rpm WOT.
600p (MMWS).......- 1/4 turn CCW from seat. Four strokes and cleans up in the cut at 13,000 rpm WOT (not broke in yet).
620p (MM & tune) - 1/2 turn CCW from seat. Four strokes and cleans up in the cut at 12,800 rpm WOT.
At 7000' elevation:
600p (MM & tune) - 1/8 turn CCW from seat. Four strokes and cleans up in the cut at 12,500 rpm WOT.
600p (MMWS).......- Haven't ran at this elevation yet.
620p (MM & tune) - 1/4 turn CCW from seat. Four strokes and cleans up in the cut at 12,800 rpm WOT.
I have posted this in the past and gotten beat up by members on this site. They said it was irresponsible to post tuning info like that (too lean) because I will cause guys to burn their saws up. Probably gonna get beat up this time as well. But it is what it is...the saws run great and are plenty rich. I would think the 590 would be very similar to the 600 but I can't say as I've never owned one. I do know that if I tuned the H on the 600p to 5/8 - 3/4 CCW, it would be a blubbering pig.
I ended up about 5/8 turn out in cold weather, now that's its hot its blubbering to much, will have to turn it in a little. Steve
rockjock-
my experieince with echo spare parts has been the same. they've never been great but lately it's unacceptable. they seem to be transitioning from a dealer network to bigbox retail. parts are available only thru outfits like partstreedotcom. and there's always one or more parts on your list that they have to special order which adds another week, minimum. most of the outfits take at least three days to get your order in the mail after they've charged your credito. (partstree is the quickest i've found.) others are really slow. they got your money. why hurry? by the time you finally get your stuff, you've found a half a dozen other echo parts you need and at least one has to be special ordered etc etc. i buy used parts from chainsawr_dot_com when ever i can. he's in new england. i'm in the southwest. they're here in two days. difference? the suits at echo don't give a rat's ass about customer service. too bad, they're good saws. end of rant.
"Great post Cliff. Not sure if the 590 is different than the 600 series as far as tuning the H"
Thanks. Many things can effect the actual tune for each saw, including fuel quality/octane, weather (DA), etc.
In any and all cases tune for results rather than any particular number of turns out from seated with the L or H screws.
My CS-590 has a different carb than the CS-600P. The 600P H screw was fully seated right out of the box, the 590 about 1/4 turn nearly as I can remember.
I had the carb apart on the 600P today and it has a fixed jet in addition to the "H" speed screw. It was idling a little "quirky" yesterday and stalled once. Didn't repeat those symptoms today, so may have just been a piece of trash in the carb.
I'd also add here that these saws are very well thought out and super easy to work on. You can have the carb off and apart in less time than it took me to type this!........Cliff
Thanks. Many things can effect the actual tune for each saw, including fuel quality/octane, weather (DA), etc.
In any and all cases tune for results rather than any particular number of turns out from seated with the L or H screws.
My CS-590 has a different carb than the CS-600P. The 600P H screw was fully seated right out of the box, the 590 about 1/4 turn nearly as I can remember.
I had the carb apart on the 600P today and it has a fixed jet in addition to the "H" speed screw. It was idling a little "quirky" yesterday and stalled once. Didn't repeat those symptoms today, so may have just been a piece of trash in the carb.
I'd also add here that these saws are very well thought out and super easy to work on. You can have the carb off and apart in less time than it took me to type this!........Cliff
Rockjock
Addicted to ArboristSite
That is exactly what we are going through. We simply can not order parts for a warranty machine off the net. Im my area there are no Husqvarna dealers as well so that is another thorn in my side. For the most part the professionals use stihl ( in my part of Ontario ) and the ability of getting parts in a day is a huge boost to sales. 2 years running the Echo rep has refused to come and show his wares at the open house my dealership runs. We ask and never really get a answer that makes sense. They will not even drop off demo saws so we can show the tree guys how well they run unmodified. Hard to support a product that simply does not want to compete.
Rockjock
Addicted to ArboristSite
1 flaw was where the chain brake handle is affixed to the saw body, looks deformed and the hole was tapped on an angle.
Another is where the 2 case halves mate there is are material defects. Also there was poor fit and finish where there was flash left over from the casting process that looks like it was knocked off, roughly filed and sent to paint.
It came in with starting issues. Took 10 pulls to get it started and it ran anemically. This was a stock saw, that maybe the reason the customer was happy to get the easier to start, pre-tuned, out of the box, fully assembled, ready to cut MS 291. Begrudgingly Echo took it back but it was a bit of a fight to see who would pay for shipping. Echo lost that argument. We never did find out why it never ran right, once it was realized the it would need a new case 1/2 to get the chain brake issue sorted we condemned it and contacted Echo as per their policy.
sounds familiar, we had two echo dealers in my area. i think a big part of their business was local municipal government contracts. they were stuck between slow suppliers and slow paying customers, losing situation. the stihl dealers are doing better because their customer base is hombres who watch television and believe advertisements. even husqvarna has been driven out of this market. i guess i'd be a lot more stressed if i didn't know that most saws currently offered really aren't very good. epa driven design doesn't cut wood. it's a sad situation when a 15 year old saw with a good chain outcuts the latest greatest on the market.
Idahonative
Addicted to ArboristSite
Like I said before.....
Rockjock
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes I am well aware of your stance. Its the perfect saw, everyone is a fool not to have one, how a tree is cut down without such a saw is mind boggling to you, Gods gift it is.
corey-
with all the hoo ha regarding which saw is better, everyone ignored your easy question. here's a link to baileys bar/chain selector. it;s also available on oregon's site:
http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.axd/BarSelector
the 009 bars used on huskys don't fit echos. echos use d176 bars (oregon number). brand of chain, stihl, oregon, carlton, whatever doesn't matter. what does matter is the chain pitch and gauge.also number of drive links (length.) if you order a 72dl chain for your husky, it won't fit on your echo. d176 bars use 70 drive link chains, huskys 72 drive links. hope this helps.
I bought an echo CS-670 that was lean seized just to give an echo a try. After putting a new top end and muffler mod that saws has been one of my favorite saws to run on tree jobs now. Great running strong saw. I alway put my nose up in the air at echo.........but I wouldn't hesitate to buy one now after putting some hours behind this one. I really liked the build quality of it. All my other saws I use are primarily Stihls.
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