Echo CS-4400

[N-m]

1. Is this the right forum for questions concerning working on a saw?

2. The Echo belongs to my father, has been running great, but the chain is NOT stopping when you get off the throttle. It continues to run at a pretty good clip.

My father believes this saw to be about 20 years old, and does not think this is a problem, certainly not a problem mechanically. In other words, he does not remember it ever having stopped. My Stihls' do, and that is what I am going by, but am pretty new to chainsaws.

I have tried searching the forums for a response to this same question since I know it has been asked before, but have had no luck. I think I have found an owner's manual, and have read about a clutch tool, but have had no further luck on maintenance/PM.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[excess650]

The idle speed might be too high, clutch springs weak, needle bearing shot or in need of lube, crud and debris causing the problem, or all of the above.

The chain should stop if the saw is at idle.

 

[CharlieG]

Tighten chain to correct tension, then adjust idle up until the chain almost moves. Use a tach if you have.

 

[rmh3481]

schematic

Here is a link to the drawings;
http://www.echo-usa.com/pdf/documentation/CS4400T1E_071901_1.pdf

If you reduce the idle speed and the clutch remains engaged the springs are worn. Is there alot of chatter? The clutch springs loose their temper from the heat. $3-5 to replace the springs. Maybe this is a good time to replace the chain, drive sprocket and bearing. How worn is the bar?

Best wishes,
Bob

 

[echoman8]

4400

Hi,

There are several things that can cause a chainsaw to idle too fast so that the chain turns and there are a few things that can cause the chain to turn if the idle is not too fast.

There are two things that you can try:
There are three adjustments. The adjustment screw that is separate is the idle. Turn it counterclockwise until chain quits turning.
If this does not solve; turn the needle nearest the engine (“low” speed fuel adjustment) counterclockwise slightly and slowly. Do not turn it more than ¼ turn.

If this does not solve it, you will probably need to take it to a shop, but if you want to try yourself then I and others can “walk you through it”.

Good luck,
echoman

 

[N-m]

Everyone,

I appreciate the replies. I quizzed my father some more, and come to find out it apparently has the original bar and chain, which probably means it also has the original needle valve, chain sprocket, etc.

It has been a good saw, and I am getting my shop squared away so this is what I want to do:

1. I will study up on the schematics, forum, and anything else I can find.

2. I will do some pricing on parts that would allow me to basically rebuild the saw to alike new condition.

3. I am going to tear into this thing and with everyone's help, do my best to get it back up and running at 100%.

I am sure I will have more questions before it is over with.

Thanks again.

 

[echoman8]

rebuild echo 4400

Hi,

Below is a post I made some time ago. Doing the repairs I described plus changing the fuel hoses should put the saw in good order.

TUNE UP CHAINSAW

Here is my procedure.

FIRST AND FOREMOST ---- remove the muffler and inspect the inside of the engine for any damage. Pay close attention to the exhaust side of the piston, the ports inside near the bottom of the cylinder, the intake port inside (where the carb mounts). If there is any damage or if you see gray (rather than chrome) anywhere, then STOP AND SAVE YOUR TIME AND MONEY.

If the engine looks good then:

1. Replace the diaphragms, needle, metering lever, and internal carb screen. I seldom change the two gaskets. I adjust my metering lever so that when the tab end is depressed ½ down, the other end begins lifting the needle. (I find many new levers do not activate the needle until ¾ down. Adjusting allows for more fuel and I feel that it helps it start easier). Replace the purge pump bulb.
2. Change the fuel filter in the gas tank.
3. Change the fuel lines. I find that if I run “small trimmer line” through the gas tank hole/s then through the gas cap hole, and run a tapered gas line over the trimmer line, that this guides the gas line in the proper position to pull it through.
4. Do some testing on it now before putting a new plug and air filter on it
5. Oops, forgot, remove the spark arrestor screen (in the muffler) or clean it and put back on (these tend to clog faster after they get carbonized the first time).

THE 4400 SHOULD NOT HAVE A BULB, SO DISREGARD THIS IF THERE IS NO PURGE PUMP BULB (PRIMER BULB)

Connect the fuel lines to carb, press the purge pump bulb and see if excess fuel is squirted out of overflow nipple without a lot of air bubbles. If there is no flow or excess air in the flow, there is a repair to disable the purge pump. When the duckbill valves in this purge pump go bad, it can drive you nuts trying to figure it out.

CARB ADJUSTMENTS

I start my adjustments by bottoming out my needles LIGHTLY – STRESS LIGHTLY. (The needles engage the carb housing. The needles are steel and the housing is aluminum. The carburetor can be damaged if you twist the screw/s too tight). Then turn them left 1 1/8 turn. From here the motor should start and run. The low speed jet (screw nearest the engine) is to idle and get you from low speed to high speed smoothly. The high speed jet (screw furthest from the engine) is to give fuel to run at high speed. Adjust the high speed with the throttle wide open (never longer than a few seconds). Turn needle either direction until engine runs best (again never run longer than a few seconds at full throttle). After locating the position on the high speed needle where it runs best, turn the needle (again at full throttle) to the left (more fuel) until it begins to cut out ever so slightly. If uncertain, turn it a little more left (rich) than right (lean).

If you have trouble going from idle to high speed, adjust your low speed needle (nearest the motor) left. To compensate for the change in the idle, adjust the third screw which is the “throttle adjustment screw”.

Your fuel is your power source and it also works as a coolant as it flows through your engine to the combustion chamber. Too lean an adjustment causes the motor to run hotter and it receives less coolant.

After a few minutes of work on the job (or maybe 1 or 2 hours), you may have to readjust the carb.

Good luck,
Echoman