Echo CS-520 questions/problems

[bkvanbek]

Cliff, I did that too, not hooked the cover on and in doing so damaged it. But I don't think there is anything wrong with the clutch, it engages just above a good idle. I just overheated it in frustration when the chain and bar got bound up.

I will take a picture of the cover, where the metal plate is sheared from over tightening the nuts.

 

[Cliff R]

Just cooks the cover if it's not installed properly, I've never seen it hurt the clutch or anything else......Cliff

 

[JimQ]

...'P.S. centrifugal clutches don't slip when the springs are loose/worn/broken, the shoes just grab the clutch drum sooner...'

Thanks for throwing that in there. It was driving me crazy. I hate to see misinformation posted that points someone in the wrong direction.

Centrifugal clutch - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Q

 

[wyk]

Remove the bar, clean it out thoroughly, and take a photo of the tail end of it where the slots are, and post it here. Do the same with the clutch.

 

[bkvanbek]

View attachment 227259View attachment 227260

 

[wyk]

Got a side view of that tail end? At first glance, the bar doesn't appear to have the correct oiler hole for that saw. Husqvarna small mounts can be easily modified to work with that saw, too.

 

[bkvanbek]

View attachment 227277There does not appear to be an oiler hole on the side. But would that cause the oil to leak out?

 

[bkvanbek]

So is that the wrong bar for the saw?

 

[PLMCRZY]

Wanna sell it ?

 

[bkvanbek]

Wanna sell it ?

Wanna participate in the topic?

 

[PLMCRZY]

Wanna participate in the topic?

Wanna lose the attitude? Good luck with your saw.

 

[rmotoman]

It looks very similar to the bar on my 520. No extra oil holes.

 

[K.C.]

centrifugal clutches don't slip when the springs are loose/worn/broken, the shoes just grab the clutch drum sooner

I learned a long time ago to never say never, because at some point it probably will...

I know how a clutch works, and I wouldn't have said what I said if I hadn't seen it myself. The ex-rental 6401 I bought had a scorched clutch with 2 broken springs and one that had no tension on it. The saw would not hook up in wood when I tried it before buying it (I got extra $$ off because of that). There was so much crap in it, rusty bits and even melted beads of metal on the contact surfaces of the shoes and drum that it would not work. It had obviously been abused. Maybe the drum was even flared or bell-shaped. I didn't bother with it - a new clutch ass'y & bearing fixed it right up and it cut just fine after that..

With the OP's mention of what he had done to it I was not posting it as misleading info, merely trying to give the guy a possiblility.

Aside from all that, how is the saw working now? The pics of the clutch look good, I will check the bar and oiler on mine when I get up to my cabin where it lives and see what that has on it.

 

[wyk]

It looks very similar to the bar on my 520. No extra oil holes.

If it is a CS-520, it oils from a port in the side of the bar, not via the bar adjustment hole. If you are missing this hole, then the oil is getting to your bar indirectly, or not at all.

The oiler is positioned up and forward of the bar mount:

Image Courtesy of Mastermind

 

[bkvanbek]

Should I get an Echo Bar 20FOAD3378 or is there another manufacturer that makes a bar for it?

 

[wyk]

Should I get an Echo Bar 20FOAD3378 or is there another manufacturer that makes a bar for it?

If you have a 3/16 nitride tipped or carbide drill bit, all you have to do is drill a new oil hole. The bar should not be significantly hardened in that area. Clean the chassis, take a piece of cardboard, put two holes in it so the board will mount on the bar mounts, mark where the oiler meets the cardboard and transfer that to your bar for accuracy. Or.. just eyeball it if yer feeling lucky. In a pinch, the more affordable small mount husky bars will work if you relieve the bar adjustment hole a bit towards the outside of the bar(it takes like maybe 10 swipes of a sharp chain file to do so).

 

[Clarkbug]

Could the oil not be hitting the bar, and instead getting back onto the clutch assembly at all, causing it to not hook up on you?

Do what wyk has stated about modifying your bar, but dont forget to do it once, and after you test it out, flip the bar and do it again so you can keep your bar wear even.

Grab a new chain, or get yours sharpened up to even the cutters. Also, how are your bar rails? splayed out or do things look good?

When you say sprocket guard plate, do you mean the clutch drum?