Echo CS-590 MM
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There is a little box in the top RH corner of the screen called Search. Type in your info request and you will get enough dang muff modd threads to read that if you read them all by the time your finished the 590 would be obselete. Just ribbin ya!!
Ozarker 1
ArboristSite Member
The deflector is severely restricted. Cut away that part that is inside. I milled mine out, using a milling machine, then used a small file to remove the flash. As far as the muffler itself, there is a video on YouTube of how a member here did his, and it's been posted in a few CS-590/600/620 threads on this site. I chose not to remove as much as he did, instead drilling a single hole in the solid area that is behind the 3/4" tube (when mounted on the saw). Works for me.
Common now... Read these 81 pages and I promise you will learn a good deal about what echos are these days and how well they can cut.
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...620pw-information.278407/page-81#post-5710924
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...620pw-information.278407/page-81#post-5710924
The CS-590 uses a different guide and deflector than the CS-600P and CS-620P. It is actually not nearly as restrictive as the one on the CS-600P that I just picked up. The outer part is actually much taller and wider than the one on the CS-600P, and not nearly as restrictive.
The modification is easy, takes less than 5 minutes. Remove the guide and deflector, the two parts will separate. Gently clamp the inner deflector with two pairs of vise grips, walk over to a bench grinder and carefully removed the raised area. You can remove all of it then clean up the edges with a pocket knife and die grinder. The "hood" on the guide, or top piece extends out far enough to keep the exhaust gasses from melting the chain brake handle.
It's not a fussy modification. As far as the muffler, it isn't restrictive and from what I can tell isn't hurting engine power. I'd save that modification until we see some timed cutting testing to prove that it isn't going to just make the saw obnoxiously loud and not help performance......FWIW......Cliff
The modification is easy, takes less than 5 minutes. Remove the guide and deflector, the two parts will separate. Gently clamp the inner deflector with two pairs of vise grips, walk over to a bench grinder and carefully removed the raised area. You can remove all of it then clean up the edges with a pocket knife and die grinder. The "hood" on the guide, or top piece extends out far enough to keep the exhaust gasses from melting the chain brake handle.
It's not a fussy modification. As far as the muffler, it isn't restrictive and from what I can tell isn't hurting engine power. I'd save that modification until we see some timed cutting testing to prove that it isn't going to just make the saw obnoxiously loud and not help performance......FWIW......Cliff
On the CS500p 490 and 590 600 its like Echo wants you open up the muff. My CS500p is starting to pull quite a bit better now after quite a few tanks through it. Steve
Ozarker 1
ArboristSite Member
That's the video I referred to, CoreyB. Thanks for hunting that up.
Cliff,
Unless Echo has changed yet again, the newer deflectors are two pieces, as you describe, but they're spot-welded together. Older parts list do show what you describe, though. Unless things have changed, the old parts and their respective numbers for the deflectors have been obsoleted and combined into the newer one; it being the only one available now. I had a 590 (Ser. No. C25812XXXXXX), and have a 620 (Ser. No. C26712XXXXXX), plus have bought two new deflectors, from different sources, and all had the same one, as I described above. I even tried ordering the older numbers, to no avail. Seems the places I ordered from don't stock them, so have to order from their Echo distributor, who only has the new ones.
I concur with Steve, that there is benefit to be had by opening up the muff. How much is gained is anyone's guess. Is a bigger hole (louder) better, or will a smaller (less loud) hole suffice? A CS-400 has a ridiculously stuffed-up muffler. Open up the deflector and the outlet hole, then get rid of the catalytic converter, and it's a whole new machine.
Cliff,
Unless Echo has changed yet again, the newer deflectors are two pieces, as you describe, but they're spot-welded together. Older parts list do show what you describe, though. Unless things have changed, the old parts and their respective numbers for the deflectors have been obsoleted and combined into the newer one; it being the only one available now. I had a 590 (Ser. No. C25812XXXXXX), and have a 620 (Ser. No. C26712XXXXXX), plus have bought two new deflectors, from different sources, and all had the same one, as I described above. I even tried ordering the older numbers, to no avail. Seems the places I ordered from don't stock them, so have to order from their Echo distributor, who only has the new ones.
I concur with Steve, that there is benefit to be had by opening up the muff. How much is gained is anyone's guess. Is a bigger hole (louder) better, or will a smaller (less loud) hole suffice? A CS-400 has a ridiculously stuffed-up muffler. Open up the deflector and the outlet hole, then get rid of the catalytic converter, and it's a whole new machine.
All depends on hole placement/size. All my dual ports are on the sides of the mufflers, pretty centered in the muffler... Other who really open up the original opening her a very poppy/aggressive sound. Some of the videos of the 620 over the last months have the side dual ports maybe listen to those on YouTube and see what you like...
If there is a restriction in those mufflers it's at the exit hole where the deflector blocks off and re-directs the exhaust.
Still doesn't mean that you might pick up a little power drilling holes either into the exit tube internally, or exit holes right in the outer portion of the muffler itself. I can tell anyone reading this that after running both of these saws without touching the muffler or deflectors at all, then opening up the inner piece, that there is very little if any noticeable difference in cutting speed/power. It would take closely control time cut testing to really know for sure, but it's nothing you can "feel" by the "seat of your pants".....IMHO.
By far and above the biggest gains I've seen were removing the limiter caps and re-tuning the "L" an "H" screws.
I went on to open up the inner deflector and really couldn't tell any difference, but it still seemed like the logical thing to do as it appears to be re-directing the air and pushing it into a relatively small opening.
As for the CS-370/400's, those mufflers are very restrictive, CAT installed in a "can" with tiny exit holes. Both of those models response very well to modding and larger holes in the "can" once the CAT is removed.
The CS-510 is another model with a seriously restrictive muffler design, and LOVES to have the cross pipe removed and exit hole opened up slightly. Same with the CS-330T/360T, but it's a PITA to mod as the muffler has to be cut apart, modded, then MIG welded back together.
I also ordered all part numbers shown for muffler deflectors for all serial number ranges of the CS-590, 600, 600P and 620P (PW). Not sure what will show up, I suspect the latest design will have superseded all previous part numbers, which wouldn't matter. The latest design is best design, directing the exhaust well away from the chain brake handle and the actual opening is wider and taller than the early ones as well.......Cliff
Still doesn't mean that you might pick up a little power drilling holes either into the exit tube internally, or exit holes right in the outer portion of the muffler itself. I can tell anyone reading this that after running both of these saws without touching the muffler or deflectors at all, then opening up the inner piece, that there is very little if any noticeable difference in cutting speed/power. It would take closely control time cut testing to really know for sure, but it's nothing you can "feel" by the "seat of your pants".....IMHO.
By far and above the biggest gains I've seen were removing the limiter caps and re-tuning the "L" an "H" screws.
I went on to open up the inner deflector and really couldn't tell any difference, but it still seemed like the logical thing to do as it appears to be re-directing the air and pushing it into a relatively small opening.
As for the CS-370/400's, those mufflers are very restrictive, CAT installed in a "can" with tiny exit holes. Both of those models response very well to modding and larger holes in the "can" once the CAT is removed.
The CS-510 is another model with a seriously restrictive muffler design, and LOVES to have the cross pipe removed and exit hole opened up slightly. Same with the CS-330T/360T, but it's a PITA to mod as the muffler has to be cut apart, modded, then MIG welded back together.
I also ordered all part numbers shown for muffler deflectors for all serial number ranges of the CS-590, 600, 600P and 620P (PW). Not sure what will show up, I suspect the latest design will have superseded all previous part numbers, which wouldn't matter. The latest design is best design, directing the exhaust well away from the chain brake handle and the actual opening is wider and taller than the early ones as well.......Cliff
Probably not, but I wasn't sure if helped provide a little more integrity to the two parts to help sealing, so I left it in place.
Well, I quit a little early in the shop today and spent some more time with the CS-600P. Had a nasty twisted Cherry tree in a fence row that needed to come out, and I wanted to put some more time on the saw to fully seat things in. That deal went pretty well till I hit piece of barb wire and messed the chain up a bit.
Since that sent me to the shop to either fetch another saw or sharpen this one, I couldn't resist the urge to grab the Husqvarna 262XP and set-up a log for testing against the CS-600P.
I'll say this that before the testing even started the CS-600P just feels stronger than the 262XP. Hardly scientific in the least, but my gut told me the 600P was stronger and faster than the 262XP.
I'll also add here that my testing is slightly flawed in a couple of ways. The 262XP has an 18" bar and full chisel chain 68 drive links, the 600P is pulling a 20" bar with 70 drive links and the same type of chain. Spent a few minutes to sharpen both chains, top both off with the same fuel, etc. I also didn't have anyone around to run the stop watch, so I had to start it while holding the saw, then make my cuts, then reach up quickly and hit the stop watch. So that little deal alone may have altered the results very slightly, but I was very careful to use the same procedures for both saws, and made three cuts each for each test.
Anyhow, I went to the wood pile and found some dry/hard Ash from last summer and set up a big hunk of it for testing. Got it well supported and warmed up the 262XP and made three cuts, then did the same with the 600P. For the first test I ran them without "pushing" them really hard, keeping them in the good power and only allowing them to pull hard enough to cut as fast as possible without "lugging" or letting the rpms drop out of the good power.
For the first test the 262XP made the three cuts in 44.63 seconds.
The first test for the 600P made three cuts in 39.17 seconds.
Second test the saws were "pushed" really hard pulling them down into the mid-range and lugging them pretty hard, but not allowing them to stall against the clutch or come out of the "good power". I pushed them both as hard as their power curves would allow without dogging them out, so to speak.
For this test the 262XP made 3 cuts in 47.71 seconds.
The 600P followed by making 3 cuts in 40.57 seconds.
Well, can't say as I'm jumping for joy or doing back-flips here, but at least my initial testing, even though it has a few flaws in it, shows GREAT potential for the Echo CS-600P.
I'd also add here that the 262XP is stone stock, no modifications anywhere aside from tuning the L and H screws. The CS-600P has the limiter caps removed and I ground the restriction out of the plate under the deflector on the muffler, otherwise it is stock as well......Cliff
Well, I quit a little early in the shop today and spent some more time with the CS-600P. Had a nasty twisted Cherry tree in a fence row that needed to come out, and I wanted to put some more time on the saw to fully seat things in. That deal went pretty well till I hit piece of barb wire and messed the chain up a bit.
Since that sent me to the shop to either fetch another saw or sharpen this one, I couldn't resist the urge to grab the Husqvarna 262XP and set-up a log for testing against the CS-600P.
I'll say this that before the testing even started the CS-600P just feels stronger than the 262XP. Hardly scientific in the least, but my gut told me the 600P was stronger and faster than the 262XP.
I'll also add here that my testing is slightly flawed in a couple of ways. The 262XP has an 18" bar and full chisel chain 68 drive links, the 600P is pulling a 20" bar with 70 drive links and the same type of chain. Spent a few minutes to sharpen both chains, top both off with the same fuel, etc. I also didn't have anyone around to run the stop watch, so I had to start it while holding the saw, then make my cuts, then reach up quickly and hit the stop watch. So that little deal alone may have altered the results very slightly, but I was very careful to use the same procedures for both saws, and made three cuts each for each test.
Anyhow, I went to the wood pile and found some dry/hard Ash from last summer and set up a big hunk of it for testing. Got it well supported and warmed up the 262XP and made three cuts, then did the same with the 600P. For the first test I ran them without "pushing" them really hard, keeping them in the good power and only allowing them to pull hard enough to cut as fast as possible without "lugging" or letting the rpms drop out of the good power.
For the first test the 262XP made the three cuts in 44.63 seconds.
The first test for the 600P made three cuts in 39.17 seconds.
Second test the saws were "pushed" really hard pulling them down into the mid-range and lugging them pretty hard, but not allowing them to stall against the clutch or come out of the "good power". I pushed them both as hard as their power curves would allow without dogging them out, so to speak.
For this test the 262XP made 3 cuts in 47.71 seconds.
The 600P followed by making 3 cuts in 40.57 seconds.
Well, can't say as I'm jumping for joy or doing back-flips here, but at least my initial testing, even though it has a few flaws in it, shows GREAT potential for the Echo CS-600P.
I'd also add here that the 262XP is stone stock, no modifications anywhere aside from tuning the L and H screws. The CS-600P has the limiter caps removed and I ground the restriction out of the plate under the deflector on the muffler, otherwise it is stock as well......Cliff
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Looks great!\
I wouldn't have the first clue how to do a video, I'm not much with electronics right to start with, they hate me! Maybe something I'll have to check into at some point.....Cliff
It's really not that hard, most of the video editors have an easy option. You can also download straight to YouTube and do the editing there.
Get one of @fordf150 echo to Stihl moungs and run a Stihl 24" bar (all over) and chain... Great versatility their!
I'll get pictures but running the @fordf150 bar adaptor and new Forester Platinum Stihl mount bar on the @rattler362 620PW talk about a cool looking set up anyways hows the muffler mod going?
cobey
Addicted to ArboristSite
This is the outlets on mine.
Alan (AWOL) on here ported mine
All the regular echo 590/600/620
Guys have seen it.
