Echo CS330t--rebuild or not?

[bikemike]

thats pretty fast... what chain is it stihl or oregon vxl?

Yeah that is the stihl full chiz lopro. I also run a carlton semi chiz and they both cut very nice. I will not use a oregon unless I'm in a pinch. I boughtthe stihl 16 inch and had 3 drive links removed for the purchase of the Chain

 

[GlynnC]

Original post topic--330t is totally back together now after trial startup! Got it running like I think it should but it hasn't seen wood yet. We are having a very unusual winter storm in Music City TN. As soon as roads clear, gotta head to Texas to help with a brother who been in ICU with heart issues for 3 of the last 4 weeks! So for now, the :30 is snuggled in between the 271t (black case) and the Stihl 260 Pro in that "ugly" Stihl orange!!!

 

[GlynnC]

Oops, hit post too soon!

 

[GlynnC]

Yes--that is a Craftsman 14" bar--yard sale special on an electric saw!!

 

[bikemike]

Does it have a nose sprocket

 

[GlynnC]

Does it have a nose sprocket

Yes--identical to the Echo bar (which is currently on an Echo 346). The Craftsman bar looked new when I got it, had no dirt and grease/grime in the groove. Greased sprocket before installing!!

 

[heyduke]

Yes--that is a Craftsman 14" bar--yard sale special on an electric saw!!

great work, i think you'll like that saw. my tuning drill: go rich on the L side so that it will rev quickly, then tun the H side until it just hits the limiter. leave it like that until it's broken in, then start leaning the H until you get max power. if you can, try a 12" bar with good, non-safety chain. the saw will perform significantly better and handling in awkward positions, like when climbing, will improve too.

hope your brother recovers well.

 

[bikemike]

Yes. NON SAFETY CHAIN

 

[GlynnC]

great work, i think you'll like that saw. my tuning drill: go rich on the L side so that it will rev quickly, then tun the H side until it just hits the limiter. leave it like that until it's broken in, then start leaning the H until you get max power. if you can, try a 12" bar with good, non-safety chain. the saw will perform significantly better and handling in awkward positions, like when climbing, will improve too.

hope your brother recovers well.

Thanks for this--how did you know that I've been reading about carb adj for the past few hours (ok, I was napping part of that time)! Yes, I plan to try the 12"bar that's on my 271t (3/8" .050)--guessing this is what I will go with. I switched one of my 346's over to a 14" from the 16" that it came with--haven't cut with it much, but was very pleased with the way it ran!

As a side note, the Stihl 260 in the "ugly" Stihl orange box that I mentioned above was given to me by my brother--very little use on the saw. It was a "thank you" gift for helping him through some health issues a few years ago!

 

[machinisttx]

So I found the air leak on my orange 330t.
http://vid16.photobucket.com/albums/b20/imakechips/chainsaws/20160123_171453_zpsyustv4cn.mp4

I took the handle/trigger off and checked the screws for the intake boot. They were tight and the boot is still nice and pliable. No idea why it would be leaking there. Going to buy a couple new boots.

Here's the junk I made to do a pressure test, and a clutch removal tool I made. The carb block/nipple thing actually fits a lot of saws.

 

[bikemike]

So I found the air leak on my orange 330t.
http://vid16.photobucket.com/albums/b20/imakechips/chainsaws/20160123_171453_zpsyustv4cn.mp4

I took the handle/trigger off and checked the screws for the intake boot. They were tight and the boot is still nice and pliable. No idea why it would be leaking there. Going to buy a couple new boots.

Here's the junk I made to do a pressure test, and a clutch removal tool I made. The carb block/nipple thing actually fits a lot of saws.

I know the early model echo had boot problems at the block but I think echo had that issue fixed on new saws

 

[machinisttx]

I wish I knew what the serial number is on this one....but I can't find a tag on it anywhere. I'll yamabond it if I have to.

 

[bikemike]

I wish I knew what the serial number is on this one....but I can't find a tag on it anywhere. I'll yamabond it if I have to.

So it is the boot leaking at the block

 

[machinisttx]

Yep. Did the video link not show up...or did it not work?

 

[bikemike]

Yep. Did the video link not show up...or did it not work?

Just seen it now yeah looks like a easy fix

 

[heyduke]

Yep. Did the video link not show up...or did it not work?

the vid is only about 1 second long here and unclear as to where the failure is.

anyway nice job on the tools. mine are usually ugly scraps of odd shaped aluminium, butchered on my drill press. the piece for the end of the intake boot was a thing of beauty.

 

[machinisttx]

Did they update the intake to fix it or change the block? Is there a service bulletin?

Edit: I must have deleted the wrong vid then. It's leaking, a lot, at the block to manifold joint on the far side.

 

[heyduke]

Did they update the intake to fix it or change the block? Is there a service bulletin?

Edit: I must have deleted the wrong vid then. It's leaking, a lot, at the block to manifold joint on the far side.

don't know about about mods. i've been using theses saw since the first appeared 15(?) years ago and haven't run into any intake boot failures. i've read somewhere that they can fail due to abrasion from incorrect assembly of the throttle linkage, but i can't confirm that from experience.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Take good pics inside and out for us before you install it

It got installed last summer..

 

[machinisttx]

I don't see how that is possible. The throttle and choke rod aren't anywhere close to the boot. The rods come into the carb box from the top and the boot is an inch and a half below.....and on the other side of the carb box.