Echo CS590, No Spark.

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Merc1973

Newly infected with CAD
Joined
Aug 22, 2014
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Location
Carroll Co, MD
The saw has been an excellent Runner. The other day while leveling a stump I thought it had run out of gas since it was very low. It would not restart after refilling fuel. Even remove the plug to see if it had flooded. It didn't even attempt to start with a wiff of starting fluid. I just checked the coil Gap at the magnet and it is inspec 0.35 mm. Is it common for the coil to go bad? Would a cs600 coil be an upgrade over this stock one?
 
How do you know there is no spark?
Do you have another plug?
Compression feel good?
Checked kill switch to make sure not shorting?

Hope you figure this out, let us know what steps you take.

I was jumping to conclusion is suppose. Compression feels good with hanging it by the recoil string. I do have a gauge too. I will dig into diagnostics further, I was limited on time this week. I'll post my findings. Thank you!
 
The coil on my 600P took a **** recently. It would start and run fine for about 2-3 minutes then stop working when warmed up. There were several different coils used on the 600P's according to the IPL's. They also listed different part numbers for the flywheels. Early 600P's got an unlimited coil, later ones showed the same part number as the CS-590 which is limited. I didn't want to take a chance so purchased the correct one according to my saws serial number.

The CS-590's limited coil is actually more expensive than a CS-620P coil. I've seen several folks recommending to replace the CS-590 coils with one from a CS-620P but I've never attempted it. It's supposed to have more optimum timing and no rev-limiter so might be a nice upgrade.......
 
Curious as to the outcome of this. Have a 590 with similar issue, and everything is fine except the coil, and I have trouble wrapping my brain around a coil just totally quitting all at once.
Not to be unhappily contrary, but immediate quitting is quite basic and regular with things electronic. Transistors most often fail more or less in the rhythm of light bulbs (just boink go "dark"). Commonly, there is a "Darlington Pair" (of transistors) in the circuit that "fires" chainsaw coils (although, yes, there are several other ways to set-off / regulate the pulse that makes chainsaw spark ... FET's - equally prone to going pop when they've had enough.) Heat adds to the tendency. When they get a chance, electrons act in a way that physicists call "ballistic," that is, a current will actually "etch into" metal surfaces, semiconductor junctions, etc. The parts actually "wear" -- sorta like the treads of sneakers, only different. At some point the passing current is more than the "worn" area can cope with. Then boink. Same kind of idea with heat regarding the very thin insulative coating on the coil wire used, etc.
Chainsaw coils are typically pretty reliable. But they are just another form of electrical/electronic stuff, subject to the same strains and failures. The annoying thing is that they are usually only "tested" by replacement, and replacement relies completely on "part numbers." (It would not be super hard to make a general purpose chainsaw coil tester. Pulse an electro-magnet in "front" of the coil and look for secondary voltage / spark out the back. It is just that nobody does it. )
 

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