I would say that 75% of the guys I worked with in S.E. Ak. used a grinder. They would either fly it into camp with them or arange to use someone elses. Nobody likes to file in the rain,and if your chain and bar are anything less than near perfect its really obvious when your trying to buck a big one and your cuts wont match up.
Economy chain grinders
- Thread starter django
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Tony Snyder
Addicted to ArboristSite
It my understanding from a couple of sources that the newest stock of chain grinders have to meet this non-reversible requirements.
I'm just trying to find out if I can still buy one of the good ones.
I'm just trying to find out if I can still buy one of the good ones.
Tony
Isaw on a website the Zacm Company has a reversible grinder made by Efco. Why would nonreversible be a requirment for the newer ones?
Isaw on a website the Zacm Company has a reversible grinder made by Efco. Why would nonreversible be a requirment for the newer ones?
Tony Snyder
Addicted to ArboristSite
OSHA (probably) caused it.
Last edited:
jim40
ArboristSite Lurker
If anybody is interested....I have the necessary wiring diagram to make the Oregon 511-Efco-etc type of grinders reversible....I will be glad to send it to anybody that might want a copy....just drop me an [email protected]
square chisel
Steve here...
Just a heads up... There is a Silvey Razur sharp on Ebay for sale
Steve
Steve here...
Just a heads up... There is a Silvey Razur sharp on Ebay for sale
Steve
Hi all,
I realize this has prob. been covered before, but what brand/type of files do you recommend? I use Sandvik files ("chain type") and Sandvik semi-chisel chain. I still don't see how you can remove enough metal in 1-2 or 5 strokes to bring a reasonably dull chain to a good sharp corner. Now I am cutting "dirty" and old wood so the edge on my chains goes reasonably fast. If I stop every 10 cuts to sharpen a very slightly dull chain, I'll be out there all day. No, I do NOT run a chain until I make powder or smoke. I do not stick my bar in the ground. When the chip doesn't look right or I cant feel the chain "bite" I sharpen or switch. So is there a superior file out there? I haven't bought a grinder yet, but am still considering it.
Thanks again,
D.
I realize this has prob. been covered before, but what brand/type of files do you recommend? I use Sandvik files ("chain type") and Sandvik semi-chisel chain. I still don't see how you can remove enough metal in 1-2 or 5 strokes to bring a reasonably dull chain to a good sharp corner. Now I am cutting "dirty" and old wood so the edge on my chains goes reasonably fast. If I stop every 10 cuts to sharpen a very slightly dull chain, I'll be out there all day. No, I do NOT run a chain until I make powder or smoke. I do not stick my bar in the ground. When the chip doesn't look right or I cant feel the chain "bite" I sharpen or switch. So is there a superior file out there? I haven't bought a grinder yet, but am still considering it.
Thanks again,
D.
I use pferd or stihl. Oregons are OK but he other two brands I mentioned work better.
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Django
If you have your saw well secured and put good heavy pressure on your file it will last much longer. Any time you stroke without enough pressure to make the file really cut, it skates and dulls itself. Do you have a stump vise? Three to five EFFECTIVE strokes should do a good job of bringing back the performance of your chain as long as you haven't rocked it.
Frank
If you have your saw well secured and put good heavy pressure on your file it will last much longer. Any time you stroke without enough pressure to make the file really cut, it skates and dulls itself. Do you have a stump vise? Three to five EFFECTIVE strokes should do a good job of bringing back the performance of your chain as long as you haven't rocked it.
Frank
That could be the "problem" I don't have a stump vise, and don't really bear into the chain. Yes I experience the "skating" (and it tickes me off, because I know it dulls the file,) but inconsistently. One tooth files fine with minimal pressure and another feels like the whole tooth is chromed. I will try more pressure. Has anyone experimented with cutting oils/fluids? I haven't yet on a chain, ( I don't know why) but it can make a world of difference when filing/sawing other metals, and it should make the file last even longer. Crofter, any file preference? I don't have trouble with rocks so much as dirt in the bark. I am cutting logs/tops that have laid in the woods for years. Thanks, I'll take all the advice I can get on filing.
Django
Django
I use a can of wd 40 on the file to clean the shavings out after each tooth is filed.
Django,
You might consider starting a new thread as this is, although a good topic, running divergent from the original one.
As long as I'm here, though, I'd suggest bringing an adze or using your axe to knock the bark off before making a cut. I know it's time consuming, but not terribly so.
Most stuff which has lain in the woods for even a full year around here generally isn't worth much for firewood. What is it you're gathering?
Glen
You might consider starting a new thread as this is, although a good topic, running divergent from the original one.
As long as I'm here, though, I'd suggest bringing an adze or using your axe to knock the bark off before making a cut. I know it's time consuming, but not terribly so.
Most stuff which has lain in the woods for even a full year around here generally isn't worth much for firewood. What is it you're gathering?
Glen
don
ArboristSite Guru
Make your own?
With all these engineers out here ... who made their own grinder?
How hard was it and what did it cost?
Also, What is the setup difference between a chisel grinder and round grinder.
Is it just the angles?
With all these engineers out here ... who made their own grinder?
How hard was it and what did it cost?
Also, What is the setup difference between a chisel grinder and round grinder.
Is it just the angles?
Tony Snyder
Addicted to ArboristSite
A member has some good info on a Maxx grinder with pictures if he doesn't mind sharing it with everyone.
Also this thread got pretty much sidetracked into chain filing. I can't understand why if someone wants to talk about something different, they can't just post a new thread.
Also this thread got pretty much sidetracked into chain filing. I can't understand why if someone wants to talk about something different, they can't just post a new thread.
jokers
Addicted to ArboristSite
I`ll share the link for the benefit of you guys in the market for an innovative but inexpensive pro grinder. Try this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2084388616 Hope this helps, Russ
A new thread has been started.
Hey all,
I started a new thread on chain sharpening.
In response to Glens's question, I am cutting Red Oak, White oak Hickory and Walnut tops and logs left over from a woods being harvested. While ths is not ideal, I can't be too picky. Most of the wood is in good shape, a little "punky" on the outside. The gentleman I am cutting for often brings his skid steer out to help load the wood and offers the use of his dump trailer. You just can't turn down that kind of help. The one thing that is problematic, is the wood is semi-cured, so very difficult to split. I am in the process of building my own Flywheel inertia splitter. This can be seen in the "large Equipment " forum. If you go to check it out, please keep in mind it is an experiment and a work in progress. There are things that will be addressed with it that arent in the photo's yet. If it works, I'll post more pics, if it doesnt, it will fade quietly into obscurity.
Django
Hey all,
I started a new thread on chain sharpening.
In response to Glens's question, I am cutting Red Oak, White oak Hickory and Walnut tops and logs left over from a woods being harvested. While ths is not ideal, I can't be too picky. Most of the wood is in good shape, a little "punky" on the outside. The gentleman I am cutting for often brings his skid steer out to help load the wood and offers the use of his dump trailer. You just can't turn down that kind of help. The one thing that is problematic, is the wood is semi-cured, so very difficult to split. I am in the process of building my own Flywheel inertia splitter. This can be seen in the "large Equipment " forum. If you go to check it out, please keep in mind it is an experiment and a work in progress. There are things that will be addressed with it that arent in the photo's yet. If it works, I'll post more pics, if it doesnt, it will fade quietly into obscurity.
Django
Newfie
Addicted to ArboristSite
Geez, god forbid django get to ask some tangential questions on the thread he started.
"I can't understand why if someone wants to talk about something different, they can't just post a new thread."
Why not start a new thread for that off topic question?
"I can't understand why if someone wants to talk about something different, they can't just post a new thread."
Why not start a new thread for that off topic question?
why new thread
Newfie,
I'm not sure how serious you were about that. Probably the best reason for a new thread is because of the likelihood that good information will be presented about the new subject which will remain hidden from those who might seek it yet will never look into the thread because it's described as being about something entirely different (this would be a good time to inhale). They then may start a thread of their own and the information may get rehashed. It's great for the comradery, but isn't really a good use of bandwidth, time, or other resources. When the discussion has retreated to the dark recesses of our minds it's likely we'll forget that we need to look into something obviously impertinent if we would like to read it again.
Glen
Newfie,
I'm not sure how serious you were about that. Probably the best reason for a new thread is because of the likelihood that good information will be presented about the new subject which will remain hidden from those who might seek it yet will never look into the thread because it's described as being about something entirely different (this would be a good time to inhale). They then may start a thread of their own and the information may get rehashed. It's great for the comradery, but isn't really a good use of bandwidth, time, or other resources. When the discussion has retreated to the dark recesses of our minds it's likely we'll forget that we need to look into something obviously impertinent if we would like to read it again.
Glen
Newfie
Addicted to ArboristSite
completely serious
After all this thread hasn't been on topic or "title" very much if you want to be a stickler about "on topic". It seems django started the thread because he was in search of alternatives to hand filing or paying for someone to machine grind his chains. A lot of give and take and comparisons and advantages and disadvantages to the various methods. Being in search of a stated alternative doesn't mean we can't be open to discussion of the other methods.
All I was saying is at least the so called off topic stuff was at least intimately related to the subject at hand and not some of the "a$$holery" (to borrow a phrase, and which I happen to enjoy) which can go on here.
There can be a big difference between staying on topic and creating a clusterf%ck of splintered little threads which all end up dying because of lack of interest. Conversations(i.e. threads)
take turns and twists, otherwise they are boring and suck.
Maybe I should have started another thread for this post. I'm sure it will be moved or deleted anyways. I guess we should all be very careful how we title or new threads so that we don't take ourselves off topic.
Happy New Year
After all this thread hasn't been on topic or "title" very much if you want to be a stickler about "on topic". It seems django started the thread because he was in search of alternatives to hand filing or paying for someone to machine grind his chains. A lot of give and take and comparisons and advantages and disadvantages to the various methods. Being in search of a stated alternative doesn't mean we can't be open to discussion of the other methods.
All I was saying is at least the so called off topic stuff was at least intimately related to the subject at hand and not some of the "a$$holery" (to borrow a phrase, and which I happen to enjoy) which can go on here.
There can be a big difference between staying on topic and creating a clusterf%ck of splintered little threads which all end up dying because of lack of interest. Conversations(i.e. threads)
take turns and twists, otherwise they are boring and suck.
Maybe I should have started another thread for this post. I'm sure it will be moved or deleted anyways. I guess we should all be very careful how we title or new threads so that we don't take ourselves off topic.
Happy New Year
treeclimber165
Member A.K.A Skwerl
Mike-
Dennis seems to be a little more reasonable here in the chainsaw forum than a certain moderator up in the climber's forum. Hence the vast difference in participation and numbers of posts.
Dennis seems to be a little more reasonable here in the chainsaw forum than a certain moderator up in the climber's forum. Hence the vast difference in participation and numbers of posts.
