Efco 152 long term test

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We've got a year and a half on a 156, hasn't had a single issue.

The recoil spring/starter rope assembly is making a liitle noise when it rewinds, need to take it apart and make sure something (stick/debris) isn't hung up it it.

I've got three 156s in Deere green. I love them. I've been running them hard for over two years and only had two minor and separate problems. Absolutely my favorite saws in the mid-50 CC range. They will out-cut my old 74 cc Stihl 041 Super.

One -the recoil starters bound up on all of them. Easy fix by shaving some plastic off the face of the rope pulley where it rubs against the rewind-spring. I think new replacement springs now have a plastic washer to eliminate the binding problem. New spring with plastic anti-friction washer is Emak # 098000060AR.

Two - all three have 20" bars (.325" chain) and all had intermittent oiling problems. Problem was that the oil holes in the bars were too small and plugged very easily. Easy fix with a pointed carbide grinder. Opened the holes up a bit and all has been fine since.

One oddity. The Deere/Efco manual makes no mention of adjustable oil-pumps, but they DO have adjusters.
 
Two - all three have 20" bars (.325" chain) and all had intermittent oiling problems. Problem was that the oil holes in the bars were too small and plugged very easily. Easy fix with a pointed carbide grinder. Opened the holes up a bit and all has been fine since.

One oddity. The Deere/Efco manual makes no mention of adjustable oil-pumps, but they DO have adjusters.

I have felt that my 20" bar on my 156 doesn't get enough oil. Tried adjusting the oil pump and still nothing. I bet I need to open up the holes in my bar as well. THANK YOU.
 
I have felt that my 20" bar on my 156 doesn't get enough oil. Tried adjusting the oil pump and still nothing. I bet I need to open up the holes in my bar as well. THANK YOU.

Yeah, it's kind of odd. I've probably got 50 chain saws with many make bars. I've never seen an oil hole in any bar as small as the ones that came OEM on my Deere CS56 saws. (20" bars with Italian .325" chain). I first tried to drill the holes out, but the steel was too hard to drill. Thus the use of a pointed carbide bit on a high-speed die-grinder instead. Original holes looked to be around 1/8" or slightly smaller. Opened them up 3/16" and all has worked great since.
 
Yeah, it's kind of odd. I've probably got 50 chain saws with many make bars. I've never seen an oil hole in any bar as small as the ones that came OEM on my Deere CS56 saws. (20" bars with Italian .325" chain). I first tried to drill the holes out, but the steel was too hard to drill. Thus the use of a pointed carbide bit on a high-speed die-grinder instead. Original holes looked to be around 1/8" or slightly smaller. Opened them up 3/16" and all has worked great since.

The hole is tiny compared to my Stihl bars.
 
Great to find this thread. Noticed several comments RE oiling issues and both my Cub and Efco do not supply enough oil. Yes I am a total newbie but what hole are you opening up on the bar? There are 2 that go threw and one 1/2 way. The Cub ran and oiled fine the first couple years but now fails to oil. The Efco hasn't oiled properly and I only ran 1 tank threw it. I bought it off EBay because I loved the Cub and wanted a spare.


Is there an online service manual available?
 
Great to find this thread. Noticed several comments RE oiling issues and both my Cub and Efco do not supply enough oil. Yes I am a total newbie but what hole are you opening up on the bar? There are 2 that go threw and one 1/2 way. The Cub ran and oiled fine the first couple years but now fails to oil. The Efco hasn't oiled properly and I only ran 1 tank threw it. I bought it off EBay because I loved the Cub and wanted a spare.


Is there an online service manual available?

The oiler hole is the one that goes only half-way into the bar. The hole that goes all the way through is the bar-adjuster hole, not the oil hole. The bar will have two "half-way through" oil holes; one on each side of the bar -so it can be reversed and installed either way. The oil holes in my Dolmar, Sthil, Oregon, and Silver Streak bars have oil holes probably three times as large as on my Efcos.

I suspect your Cub might have totally different problems then your Efco -but I don't know which Cub-Cadet saw you have. There was a mess of saws made in Malaysia that were 55 ccs and sold by "Sears Best" and Cub-Cadet. They were horrible saws and the oilers usually burnt up after the first few hours of use. After they were only one year old, most replacement parts became unavailable - especially the oil pumps and the plastic oil-pump drive gears. I've got three of them laying in my saw "junk pile."
 
Great I thought the 1/2 was for the bar oil thanks for confirming that on the Cub I am running one of Baileys bars but don't think it is the cause of the problem?. I did pull the side cover and get a small amount of oil flow with no chain. That is on the Cub. The Cub is the same saw as the Efco it's a CS5018 it just seems odd that both have the exact same problem. I am thinking a good cleaning on the Cub and maybe flush the oil system with some diesel. I really need a service manual....

Thanks for your help.

Rob
 
There were never any cub cadets made in malaysia. The only time cub cadets ever made saws they were made by efco out of Italy. On the smaller efcos 9 out of 10 times its the oiler holes in the bar that are clogged(dont run a loose chain ...chips get into the rails). I 'd use compressed air and give the bar oiler holes and rails a good blow out. If you need a oiler we have many sponsers that will hook you up or if you would like a used one in good shape Pm me.
 
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The oiler hole is the one that goes only half-way into the bar. The hole that goes all the way through is the bar-adjuster hole, not the oil hole. The bar will have two "half-way through" oil holes; one on each side of the bar -so it can be reversed and installed either way. The oil holes in my Dolmar, Sthil, Oregon, and Silver Streak bars have oil holes probably three times as large as on my Efcos.

I suspect your Cub might have totally different problems then your Efco -but I don't know which Cub-Cadet saw you have. There was a mess of saws made in Malaysia that were 55 ccs and sold by "Sears Best" and Cub-Cadet. They were horrible saws and the oilers usually burnt up after the first few hours of use. After they were only one year old, most replacement parts became unavailable - especially the oil pumps and the plastic oil-pump drive gears. I've got three of them laying in my saw "junk pile."[/QUOT

There were never any cub cadets made in malaysia. The only time cub cadets ever made saws they were made by efco out of Italy. On the smaller efcos 9 out of 10 times its the oiler holes that are clogged. I 'd use compressed air and give the bar oiler holes and rails a good blow out. If you need a oiler we have many sponsers that will hook you up or if you would like a used one in good shape Pm me.

Appreciate the input. Hopefully they both just need a good cleaning. If not I'll be in touch for the oiler:) The bad part is the Efco is under warranty but I have no place to have it serviced locally. I hate to beat the hell out of the Makita 401 but I have some big wood to cut.
 
If the efco is under warranty..id just take it back to where i bought it. Or contact efco directly and see what they say...The efco oiler has a metal internal gear but the worm gear that fits into the clutch drum is plastic and could also be stripped(most likely...as i have never seen a stripped oiler assembly gear). Make sure to thin your bar oil with kerosene this winter so the oil flows better. Either way we'll get you cuttin wood again.
 
If the efco is under warranty..id just take it back to where i bought it. Or contact efco directly and see what they say...The efco oiler has a metal internal gear but the worm gear that fits into the clutch drum is plastic and could also be stripped(most likely...as i have never seen a stripped oiler assembly gear). Make sure to thin your bar oil with kerosene this winter so the oil flows better. Either way we'll get you cuttin wood again.

If I didn't buy it from Ebay I would have a place to bring it. He is an Efco dealer but on the wrong coast! Okay I can see that part in the IPL of course if I knew more about saws or had a service manual it would make things easier I like doing the work myself. Thanks again slipknot!
 
If I didn't buy it from Ebay I would have a place to bring it. He is an Efco dealer but on the wrong coast! Okay I can see that part in the IPL of course if I knew more about saws or had a service manual it would make things easier I like doing the work myself. Thanks again slipknot!

so is there an authorized efco repair facility in your area. yeah some of them might have heart burn cause you didn't buy it from them but since they're paid by the factory for warranty work i think they'd get over it. don't want to void your warranty. and why spend the bucks when you don't have to. the warranty work was factored into the cost of the saw. just sayin
 
If you have checked and cleaned the bar oiler holes and cleaned the rails top and bottom..and its still not oiling correctly, and you have tried adjusting it(sometimes just take the adjustment screw all the way to MIN then back up to MAX will for some reason help) Then check your lines. If none of that works then I'd look at the oiler worm gear efco P/N 50070025 Baileys sells them for 4.79 plus shipping. They have another one Im assuming is metal for 12.79. Getting the clutch off is easy..it says what direction it comes off right on it. If you have a nylon piston stop and the special clutch tool have at it...if not.. get some good CLEAN rope like pull starter rope and stuff the cylinder to act as a piston stop and then find something to hammer that clutch off..like a hammer and flat blade chisel..lol..once you knock it loose you can screw it off by hand..watch for the clutch bearing..try and keep the clutch and drum together...and there is the little piece of plastic that sometimes strips or gets a bad spot in the gear. Also the oiler is right there too..so you should inspect that as well.

Good luck
 
I have to agree....if its under warranty and you dont mind the drive to the closest servicing dealer Id make them back up that fancy 5 yr warranty. I hope you sent in your warranty card...not sure if that is required but it always helps to have a registered product when talking with the factory for help.
 
so is there an authorized efco repair facility in your area. yeah some of them might have heart burn cause you didn't buy it from them but since they're paid by the factory for warranty work i think they'd get over it. don't want to void your warranty. and why spend the bucks when you don't have to. the warranty work was factored into the cost of the saw. just sayin

I have to agree....if its under warranty and you dont mind the drive to the closest servicing dealer Id make them back up that fancy 5 yr warranty. I hope you sent in your warranty card...not sure if that is required but it always helps to have a registered product when talking with the factory for help.

The warranty does not transfer from owner to owner. If you are the original owner, a sales receipt is all that is needed. Any dealer should work on the saw if those two conditions are met.
 
There were never any cub cadets made in malaysia. The only time cub cadets ever made saws they were made by efco out of Italy.

Never?? I'm no expert on Cub Cadet history since it ceased to exist as an equipment maker when International Harvester sold it off back early 80s. Now Cub Cadet is simply a brand name owned by MTD which makes, or has made, most of it's stuff in China, Maylasia, etc.

In my efforts to find parts for these saws - Cub Cadet was one of the places that offered parts-breakdowns but NO new ignition modules or oil pump parts available (just like Sears, MTD, Troy Built, etc.). Seems these saws sold for 3 years and then . . . were obsolete with no parts support.

I bought a few parts/junk saws - all the same as the Sears 55 - with Cub Cadet and Troy Built brand names on them. All made in Malaysia. 55 cc, 20" bar and spring-assisted God-awful recoil starter that Sears called the "incredipull." These saws were sold 2004-2006 and many got recall notices due to handles breaking off.

MTD owns the brand-names of Cub Cadet, Bolens, Troy Built/Garden Way, Farm King, Mastercut, Ryobi, White, Yard Machines, etc. MTD also furnishes (past and/or present) equipment for resale by Sears-Craftsman, Montgomery Ward, Huskee for Tractor Supply, JC Penney, True Value, Massey Ferguson, KMart, Western Auto Wizard, etc.
 

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