- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,175
- Reaction score
- 25,045
Back in my fraternity days, piling on, was always a good thing!!
Erratic sawchain tension...
- Thread starter Mike Kunte
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Hi guys!
Some feedback is in order. Popped in at the Stihl dealer over the weekend for them to have a look at the wobbly sprocket. Their solution? Tighten the chain up more!
So I looked at all the Stihl saws on the shelves. Guess what? ALL OF THE SAWS WITH RIM SPROCKETS EXHIBIT THE SAME PHONOMENON. WOBBLE THE RIM SPROCKET, AND THE CHAIN TENSION GOES UP AND DOWN.
So - what do you guys think? Tighten the chain up, and let rip? Please check your sprocket-equipped saws and let me know!
Some feedback is in order. Popped in at the Stihl dealer over the weekend for them to have a look at the wobbly sprocket. Their solution? Tighten the chain up more!
So I looked at all the Stihl saws on the shelves. Guess what? ALL OF THE SAWS WITH RIM SPROCKETS EXHIBIT THE SAME PHONOMENON. WOBBLE THE RIM SPROCKET, AND THE CHAIN TENSION GOES UP AND DOWN.
So - what do you guys think? Tighten the chain up, and let rip? Please check your sprocket-equipped saws and let me know!
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,175
- Reaction score
- 25,045
Can you snap a pic of your rim and drum without the e-clip and washer?
Mike , I think that if you will lift the bar tip and tension the chain to no sag no drag then tighten the bar nuts to hold the bar up you will find that when you pull the chain around the bar there will be no problem .
thefarmboy21
ArboristSite Operative
Well I was following this post because I've got a similar issue, but apparently not going to be the same solution....I put a new bar and chain on my 028 WOODBOSS and the chain rotates fairly smooth, until it tighten it down. When I put the final torque on the bar nuts, the chain gets either so tight it won't rotate at all, or if adjust it and give it some slack under the bar, it'll be a little easier, but still so tight it takes force to rotate and is still much too sloppy to really cut with.
Mine is a regular spur sprocket, but it probably needs replaced....but still I didn't have this problem the other day when I had a used bar on it. And yes, it's the right gauge and pitch etc.
Mine is a regular spur sprocket, but it probably needs replaced....but still I didn't have this problem the other day when I had a used bar on it. And yes, it's the right gauge and pitch etc.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,175
- Reaction score
- 25,045
thefarmboy21
ArboristSite Operative
Here's the bar and chain combo. The specs match the Stihl specs.
Here's the rim sprocket conversion I intend to buy sometime in the next week or so.
I had my 16" bar and chain from my 290 FARMBOSS on it and it was fine and the chain still looks completely fine after I took it off. Only made a few cuts with it on there. Then I put the new 18" combo on it and I'm having troubles.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,175
- Reaction score
- 25,045
I'd say so!!!!
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,175
- Reaction score
- 25,045
That sprocket needed replaced 10 years ago!!
thefarmboy21
ArboristSite Operative
Well my neighbor gave me the saw and there was no chain in the case, but the bar that was in it was 3/8 .58 gauge?!?! I'm not really sure what happened over the years....but I'm guessing someone picked up the wrong parts a time or two! Man does this chew through the wood now that it's a runner again.
Attachments
Run it like you stole it.
The rim sprockets need to have a little play in order for them to work properly. The same sprocket can be used for .050, .058, and .063 bar/chain gauges. When a thicker .063 gauge bar is installed the rim needs to float outward toward the washer in order to center itself on the bar groove of the thicker bar. If the operator should happen to remove and re-install the bar in the field and gets a wad of sawdust between the bar and the mount this will also move the center of the groove out requiring the sprocket to move over even more to center itself on the groove. The rim sprocket system is sloppy by design and will produce some slight oddities in chain tension. I find that if I initially tighten my chain and it gets loose immediately I just stop and re-tention it. One re-tentioning (if required) usually takes care of the problem and I can cut for several tanks without having to re-adjust anything.
Thanks, rd35. Nice explanation. I think I'll go with this way. Seeing that the brand new saws do this, it should be ok.
