FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

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The bolts will sit pretty good anyway, there is already some blue stuff on them in the box right? and the screw heads have counter marks in them at the bottom making them actually dig in to the magnesium.
The locktite will cure over night, but you really dont have to wait for it - its a long term insurance.
 
The bolts will sit pretty good anyway, there is already some blue stuff on them in the box right? and the screw heads have counter marks in them at the bottom making them actually dig in to the magnesium.
The locktite will cure over night, but you really dont have to wait for it - its a long term insurance.
It took a couple hours for it to come loose on me... I guess I am getting gun shy and it can cause some damage if it loosens. Glad I caught it early... If I did...
 
The bolts will sit pretty good anyway, there is already some blue stuff on them in the box right? and the screw heads have counter marks in them at the bottom making them actually dig in to the magnesium.
The locktite will cure over night, but you really dont have to wait for it - its a long term insurance.
I don't think the cylinder bolts had loctite. When removed I could not tell. The silver bolts did. The black ones that I have seen did not look like it. But it has been a while since I put it together.

BTW The bottle of loctite I picked up said 10 minutes for partial set. 24 hours for full hold. It is back together now. I think I have it torqued tighter. I used a torque wrench. I got it to just under 10 ft lbs and snapped the torx bit. Cut it shorter and did about 10+ ft lbs on the bolts. With loctite, it should be fine now. I probably won't fire it up until tomorrow anyway. Weather permitting.

Also used new bolts. Hard to find, I had to order them. Unless you wanted the hardware store ones. Then need to figure out a long allen wrench to tighten them.
 
Question on the loctite... If you put it on the bolts and put it together do you have to wait a while before you run the saw?? For the loctite to set? The instructions do not say. Normally no problem with automotive use. But the saws have a lot more vibrations. I never used the loctite primer.
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O.E.M. on the bolts. As to the Loctite, sets in 10 minutes, fully cures in 24 hours.
I seen that on one package. The other packages did not list it. It also did not show on the PDF on their website under the specs. But good to go. I set it up and cranked it down tight. let it sit over night. I got a good hour run time on it already and holding great. I am thinking not tight enough, it has a lot of compression. It sure did not hurt to use loctite on it either.
 
How do you identify if the MS660 kit has the HLIC carb? Also who sells the HLIC carb? Would like to put the bigger jet in it!
 
I had only got this saw to compare to OEM saws I owned in past. I have or had FT G660 G444 G466 G366 G111T G372xp JC3800 JC2500T so far.

I haven’t done this since I tested a stock muffler modded 361 with 32”.
Clone G366 stock muffler mod with 32” full skip square.

32" was buried for most of cut

Ok impressive it pulled it buried. Need to check and see how it oiled now. Oem was getting stingy back then even is a 2' spruce years back

Imo oiled better then what I recall my oem 361 did in just 2’ of spruce and 32” back then

g3663216.jpgg36632.jpgg366buried.jpg
 
How do you identify if the MS660 kit has the HLIC carb? Also who sells the HLIC carb? Would like to put the bigger jet in it!
FYI, are you doing big mods to it?? (exhaust or new jug?) or just wanting to beef up the carburetor? I grabbed my carb out of the box and opened up the main jet just a few thousands. Since the idea was it ran lean out of the box. Nope. It ran very rich. I had to get a new carb. No going back once you open up the main jet. Once I went back to stock it runs great. Nice running saw.

BTW when you build it, get the jug bolts Tight. I don't think you can get them tight enough by hand. Torque wrench is preferred. Only problem I had with the build. Besides getting overly zealous over fixing a carb problem that was not there.
 
FYI, are you doing big mods to it?? (exhaust or new jug?) or just wanting to beef up the carburetor? I grabbed my carb out of the box and opened up the main jet just a few thousands. Since the idea was it ran lean out of the box. Nope. It ran very rich. I had to get a new carb. No going back once you open up the main jet. Once I went back to stock it runs great. Nice running saw.

BTW when you build it, get the jug bolts Tight. I don't think you can get them tight enough by hand. Torque wrench is preferred. Only problem I had with the build. Besides getting overly zealous over fixing a carb problem that was not there.
Makes sense! I was going to use LOCTIGHT and OEM Bolts for the jug. What torque specs do you recommend?
 
Makes sense! I was going to use LOCTIGHT and OEM Bolts for the jug. What torque specs do you recommend?
What I read on here was 11 Ft Lbs. (Stihl manual) Seems pretty tight. I got mine to about 10 and got spooked. They turned, but did not want to get tighter. That is a LOT tighter than you can get by hand. You need a long torx driver to reach them. I did not have one (or could find one easy without ordering). (That had a socket head) I used a hand driver and pounded a socket over the plastic handle so I could use a torque wrench on it.

I used loctite blue on the threads.

From what I seen with the kit, I would use everything that came with it. If you upgrade, there is always something. I went with a OEM compression relief and a pull start pulley. The pull start takes a lot of beating. If I did it again, I think I would use everything from the kit.

The saw is pretty beefy. If I tried to increase HP by doing mods, I doubt if I would notice much of a difference.
 
BTW I dropped the trunk. My cousin cuts wood, but did not want to mess with the saw. After I dropped the trunk he looked over and said give me that....
DSC05199 rsz 2.JPG
 
Be casreful with those aftermarket decomps. It will happen and be to late on these. Will drop straight in the stihl style cylinder.

Took my old G66 back in trade yesterday and that was the first thing I did. Put a OEM stihl one in on right in pic. The 44 46 got husky oem ones.

afmdc.jpgadecomp.jpgafmdsd.jpgg66d.jpg
 
Or never install lol
Pretty sure you need it. It has a lot of torque on the pull cord. If not, I have heard of the cord pulleys breaking even while using one. Even if you do not mind ringing your hand from the torque. My buddy works for the county and they have replaced a few of the pull cord pulleys on the Original MS660 and 661s?.

Will keep that in mind to replace with OEM. I did with mine on the build.
 
Pretty sure you need it. It has a lot of torque on the pull cord. If not, I have heard of the cord pulleys breaking even while using one. Even if you do not mind ringing your hand from the torque. My buddy works for the county and they have replaced a few of the pull cord pulleys on the Original MS660 and 661s?.

Will keep that in mind to replace with OEM. I did with mine on the build.
Probably true but I have never used the Decomp to start my saws
 
Just remove and plug!
It came in plugged after I removed it for younger guy. Next thing you know he was wanting a D ring handle and then later he ordered a decomp. ;)
He said 200psi stock with base gasket. No clue never checked it myself.

I used to have the mentality of grip it and rip it too. But I grew up and got older and wiser. :cheers:

Just let us know in another 30 years added to your age now. ;)
 

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