Farmertec/off brands?

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Here's some photos of Farmertec MS200T parts (pre-Huztl Kit) from July 2018. Did not have any luck with the two carbs I bought, but the metal cast & machining seems decent enough.
This build was an experiment to run the Farmertec parts till it implodes. Tried to use everything as received without modification or OEM replacement where possible, even used the Farmertec spark plug. There was no Huztl kit at that point, so a few parts like the carburetor connector, oiler connector and some AV screws and springs had to be OEM; carburetor refused to idle, so ended up with used rebuilt of OEM carb. But engine and other moving parts are Farmertec (90%). Failure to date after running almost 30 tanks are: Carburetor, Intake boot, Oil pump.
The problem with Farmertec is that the products are inconsistent. For example, the oil-vent line that came with the tank assembly was very nice, but when I ordered a stand alone piece, it was too long and kinks when you install it.

Crank & Piston (after 20 plus tanks)
View attachment 680239 View attachment 680241

Cylinder - stock with no mods (after 20 plus tanks)
View attachment 680230 View attachment 680232 View attachment 680233 View attachment 680234

Crankcase and Cylinder (initial assembly)
View attachment 680235 View attachment 680236 View attachment 680242 View attachment 680238
Are the piccies of the crank as stripped or did you clean them? I only ask as they appear a bit dry oil residue wise were you using 50/1 ratio Just Curios
 
Are the piccies of the crank as stripped or did you clean them? I only ask as they appear a bit dry oil residue wise were you using 50/1 ratio Just Curios

I just bought a 070 kit basically for a learning experience. I have never built a lower unit..... only rebuilt top ends. My question is ... what is the oil mix for a farmtec 070? I can’t find that answer anywhere.
 
I just bought a 070 kit basically for a learning experience. I have never built a lower unit..... only rebuilt top ends. My question is ... what is the oil mix for a farmtec 070? I can’t find that answer anywhere.

Lean towards the side of caution. Run 35:1.
 
If anyone needs one, I have a standard bore 660 cylinder kit, and a 200T cylinder kit I will probably sell. Both Hyway.
 
I recently rebuilt my first top end on an 034 (in which I put an 036 P&C). Since this was my 1st top end rebuild, I went with cheap farmertech, 11$ for the whole kit. At that price I bought 2 in case some pieces were crap. Surprisingly the saw run good with it. I use it almost all day long this weekend and everything fine. I run 35:1. However dont know how long she will last, but 11$ to learn and to have a running 034 is not bad at all IMHO.
 
I just bought a 070 kit basically for a learning experience. I have never built a lower unit..... only rebuilt top ends. My question is ... what is the oil mix for a farmtec 070? I can’t find that answer anywhere.
The specs for the factory assembled saws are 25-1. Go figure.
 
the plastics aren't all that bad . I have been using the farmertec -china parts for a few years for customer saws .(crushed saws the customer wants to spend $100 compared to $300+ on oem to get them up and running ) . I stay away from intake boots, fuel and impulse lines but the av rubber isn't too bad. it is hit and miss on internal parts
I agree with you except the AV rubber is no replacement for OEM especially the top one on Stihl 440. Definitely get OEM intake boots, fuel lines, impulse lines or at least a victim branded or better AM like Hyway.
 
Are the piccies of the crank as stripped or did you clean them? I only ask as they appear a bit dry oil residue wise were you using 50/1 ratio Just Curios
Thank you for an objective report on stock Farmertec. As many have found inconsistent QC and stay away from fuel, impulse, intake, seals,clips,bearings, hit or miss carb (go OEM) . The Farmertec kit I got for my crushed Stihl 440 worked perfect for plastics, clutch cover, starter, handle and made saw look like new. Each piece that I could take that was OEM replaced Farmertec parts....such as: fuel vent, fuel and impulse, intake boot, throttle linkage and choke kill parts, starter pulley and pawls, elastostart handle and rope. My OEM Stihl Magnum 440 looks new inside and out. Bought it new in 2007 and have sales slip on my kitchen wall. I like that saw so much I would have bought a couple more in 2007 for the $719.95 for head and Stihl 20" es bar and chain. The piston and cylinder have not a scratch and only upkeep in 14 years was a spark plug and air filter (did not need either). Used it logging and I hear with firewood. Figure my Stihl 440 will last me for life but thank Farmertec for emergency back up parts (at least until I can get OEM on saw). Their kits are great money savers for cases like mine. Mechanicals all OEM maybe meteor or hywsy p&c in a decade or two.
 
the plastics aren't all that bad . I have been using the farmertec -china parts for a few years for customer saws .(crushed saws the customer wants to spend $100 compared to $300+ on oem to get them up and running ) . I stay away from intake boots, fuel and impulse lines but the av rubber isn't too bad. it is hit and miss on internal parts
Agreed. AV rubber is useable but not as good as OEM on Stihl 440 especially top one. Bought Farmertec kit and replaced Stihl 440 plastics, starter and clutch covers, handle, flywheel. Stihl 440 got crushed by tree but engine and carb all mint. Every stock OEM part possible was used instead of Farmertec...starter used Stihl pulley, pawls, rope and elastostart, Stihl gas vent, fuel and impulse line, Viton intake boot, Stihl choke/,kill switch and Stihl linkages on Farmertec handle, Stihl AV. The Farmertec kit saved $ over Stihl for the non mechanical parts and makes the saw look new. I have a bunch of Farmertec AM parts to use in a pinch until they could get replaced OEM. I bought my Stihl new in 2007 for $719.95 with 20" es bar and chain (would have bought a couple more in hindsight). Have logged and heat with firewood sorry for 14 years and stock OEM Stihl 440 only got a spark plug and air filter for maintenance. Love that saw. Farmertec kits are for education, fun, experiments, some parts, but no match vs OEM for sure like we all know. Bedford T should tabulate the time and expense of his final 660 clone and publish vs resale and performance of clone 660 and it would be really clear to go OEM. Happy Holidays and Thanx for this thread.
 
Agreed. AV rubber is useable but not as good as OEM on Stihl 440 especially top one. Bought Farmertec kit and replaced Stihl 440 plastics, starter and clutch covers, handle, flywheel. Stihl 440 got crushed by tree but engine and carb all mint. Every stock OEM part possible was used instead of Farmertec...starter used Stihl pulley, pawls, rope and elastostart, Stihl gas vent, fuel and impulse line, Viton intake boot, Stihl choke/,kill switch and Stihl linkages on Farmertec handle, Stihl AV. The Farmertec kit saved $ over Stihl for the non mechanical parts and makes the saw look new. I have a bunch of Farmertec AM parts to use in a pinch until they could get replaced OEM. I bought my Stihl new in 2007 for $719.95 with 20" es bar and chain (would have bought a couple more in hindsight). Have logged and heat with firewood sorry for 14 years and stock OEM Stihl 440 only got a spark plug and air filter for maintenance. Love that saw. Farmertec kits are for education, fun, experiments, some parts, but no match vs OEM for sure like we all know. Bedford T should tabulate the time and expense of his final 660 clone and publish vs resale and performance of clone 660 and it would be really clear to go OEM. Happy Holidays and Thanx for this thread.
Oooops this thread is three years old and I posted more than once by accident (,newbie).
 

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