Felling Techniques

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bmcinto01

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Hello, new to the site. Are there any resources, advice, pictures, diagrams...etc that demonstrate good felling techniques? I've been cutting for firewood and clearing awhile, but never took on anything over 18" in diameter. Thanks to Michigan's wonderful ash bore, I have some 20" plus trees that are dead on my property. Good thing though, I need the firewood. Bad thing is these are a little more than I've handled and I don't want to make any stupid mistakes. Plan on doing a lot of studying before I tackle these.

I've found a few sites, but wasn't familiar with the lingo, so it was a little confusing. I do a lot of cutting, so I have enough saw. Like I say the BIG vertical ones I haven't messed with.
 
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+1 all above

Timber Fallers - D Dent. good book. Baileys should have them.

online - Faller std. basic easy read.

better way ask around. find someone (logger, DOF course, maybe some on AS)
that HAS some solid experience and ask for some help.
 
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THE BASICS: In woods felling, more or less straight tree-live and sound. Conventional technique (good for most trees most places-I know this will start a fight!)

Safety: PPE: Chaps, hardhat, hearing protection, steel toe boots, gloves, felling wedges, big hammer/axe. Sharp chain, properly tensionsed. Saw fully gassed and oiled. OTHERWISE STAY HOME.

Examine the tree. Note dead limbs, general condition, visible rot, hornets nests, tree houses, deer stands, branching structure, nearby obstacles, wires. grapevines, overlapping branches with adajcent trees etc etc. This is important take your time.

Determine lean of tree-if any. Note big branches or other features that would affect the natural lay of the tree. Perfectly straight is rare (but nice).

Determine felling direction based on above. You have to work with what nature gives you.
Check the lay. Make sure there is room. Clear as needed. If the falling tree is going to bust up any small trees in its path you might as well cut them before hand.

Plan escape route-clear out if needed.

Clear out around the base of the tree-all the way around!

Face the tree in the direction you wish it to go. 1/3 diameter undercut and about 45 degrees for the face cut. MATCH YOUR CORNERS. Cut from both sides if your bar is too short.

Move around to the back of the tree and have your wedge and hammer handy.
Stop at this point and have a look around. Look up!

Sart your back cut about 2 inches above the under cut-nice and level.
Drive your wedge into the back cut as soon as you can. Every time!

Continue cutting towards the face keeping the holding wood 'hinge' uniform. Cut from both sides if your bar is too short.

As the hinge narrows start looking around and up and watching for any sign of movement. Cut slower now. Keep looking.

If all goes to plan the tree should start to fall (in the inetended direction no less) when the holding wood/hinge gets to 'around' the 1" range (18" tree) . DONT CUT TOO FAR! Do not cut through the hinge-EVER. All control is lost if you do and likley your saw is pinched to boot. Why would I know this?

If the tree doesnt fall and just sits there carefully trim the hinge wood thickness a bit more and bang on the wedge a few times. Look up! That should do it unless you really messed up. (At which point you have some work to do but at least you can pull your saw free because you always put a wedge in the backcut right?)

When the tree is defintely going down, PULL OUT AND GET OUT along your escape path. Get far away and look up the whole time. Death comes from above.

Once the tree is down hesitate a bit and look around AND UP to make sure that the coast is truly clear before approaching the tree.

Congratulate yourself and say a prayer for the forest that it may live and prosper.

Be paranoid and live longer.

And D.Douglas Dent is the man!
 
Good Advice!

Thanks for all the replies so far. Great advice. Knowing how to do this isn't enough. You really need to know what kinds of things can happen while your actually doing the work. I will be investing in some good Stihl wedges this week, clearing the "work zone", and scouting the tops for surprises.

Looks like a beginner would be best using an open-faced cut to start out. It's all going in the stove, so no worries there. I'll have the wife posted as the lookout downrange and tell her if I start running to try an keep up!
 
The type of face is important but IMO the thing to watch out for is the quality of the cuts in the face. Take your time and make your cuts line up real well. The other thing that is mondo important is watching the tree for movement and not cutting into/off your hinge.
 
Good point!

The type of face is important but IMO the thing to watch out for is the quality of the cuts in the face. Take your time and make your cuts line up real well. The other thing that is mondo important is watching the tree for movement and not cutting into/off your hinge.

I've found this to be my weekness in larger trees. Getting those cuts to line up is tricky. Always thought you had to work fast and haul tail. Nice to learn applying these methods will give time to get it right and be safe.
 
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Don't cut alone. Have a working cellphone.

Take a look around in other forums. See if there's someone near you
or a Get Together coming up that's close to you.

Oh, Welcome to AS!
 
I noticed you mentioned that some of the trees you plan on felling are dead. IMHO, dead trees are much more dangerous than live ones. Limbs are brittle, hinges are brittle if the tree's been dead for a while. An open face notch is a good, safe way to cut, with the hinge staying connected(thus the tree somewhat controlled) for longer than a standard notch. If the tree is completely dead, it may be a bit useless though. Many of the dead trees I have cut have been hard and brittle from one end to the other. You cut the notch, make your backcut and of course the proper precautions beforehand, but as soon as the tree starts falling the hinge breaks. Tree falls, of course, but with no control from your hinge. anything the tree brushes against on it's path toward the ground is game to break a branch or alter the direction of the tree. Be very careful when cutting the dead ones.

Depending on the nature of the trees you're cutting, and the species, there may be another method of cutting you need to learn. I call it a bore cut, some call it a plunge cut. When done improperly, it's very dangerous regarding kickback. With a little learning and practice, it's a very useful method for cutting trees. The species I've learned are most likely(in my area) to barber-chair are Ash, Chestnut Oak, and Black Birch. There are others, but the ash and chestnut oak are particularly finicky. Beware cutting in extremely low temperatures, frozen trees are much more dangerous.

The information required to explain how and when is too much for this post. I couldn't recommend anyone to learn to fell trees without an experienced teacher. I'm not saying it's impossible, just that there's nothing like a little watch-and-learn followed by some hands-on training. That's how I was taught, so I may be a little biased in that statement.

Redpath gave a lot of really great advice, too. Without the PPE, plenty of gas/oil for the job, and a sharp saw, you'd just as well stay home.

I was given a short list of things to remember by the most talented cutter I've ever met. I'll pass them forward, if I can quote them correctly.

A level stump pulls a tree.

Split the forks, not the tree.(this means that if you're felling a tree with a large fork in it, you want both forks to hit the ground simultaneously. If you cut it so that one hits with the other above, you may split the butt right down the center.)

Always bore the heavy side first.

Quality in time makes quantity.(this isn't exactly what he told me, but it was the point he was trying to make)

All the good timber cutters are dead.

I hope this helps, anyone feel free to correct or interject.
 
Here's how NOT to do it!
[video=youtube;6N6rViWIzVY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6N6rViWIzVY[/video]

[video=youtube;XxK6Cdb-_bw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxK6Cdb-_bw&feature=related[/video]

[video=youtube;Zz0rbuBk8pE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zz0rbuBk8pE&feature=related[/video]

The physics and mechanics are the same as the small trees, just on a bigger scale. Once you've dropped a couple, with no hazards in or around them, all will be fine.
 
Here's how NOT to do it!
[video=youtube;6N6rViWIzVY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6N6rViWIzVY[/video]

[video=youtube;XxK6Cdb-_bw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxK6Cdb-_bw&feature=related[/video]

[video=youtube;Zz0rbuBk8pE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zz0rbuBk8pE&feature=related[/video]

The physics and mechanics are the same as the small trees, just on a bigger scale. Once you've dropped a couple, with no hazards in or around them, all will be fine.

Either you are joking or you are an idiot,
Jeff :laugh:
 
More Great Advice!

I'll be checking out these videos tonight. Thanks for these. I'm starting with the smallest, straightest tree. Thankfully none of them are near any buildings. Trees are not completely dead and no rot I can see. No forkers, but couple leaners.
 
Either you are joking or you are an idiot,
Jeff :laugh:

So you make a different face and use a different way to do a back cut on a tree based on it's size?
You cut the small tree one way and a big tree another because they aren't the same size?
 
So you make a different face and use a different way to do a back cut on a tree based on it's size?
You cut the small tree one way and a big tree another because they aren't the same size?

Yeah, maybe. The part when you said " once you do it a few times, you will be fine", is what I was refering to.
Jeff
 
I see, what I meant was that once he realized it wasn't any more difficult than the small trees he's been falling, he'd get more comfortable and competent at doing it.
But targets in the way and hazard trees are going to be dangerous, big or small!
 
I see, what I meant was that once he realized it wasn't any more difficult than the small trees he's been falling, he'd get more comfortable and competent at doing it.
But targets in the way and hazard trees are going to be dangerous, big or small!

Yup, that is why he should have someone show him instead of reading how to do it.
Jeff :msp_smile:
 

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