Felling wedge difference?

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I buy the cheap ones. I like the 10" ones for most everything. I have a few smaller ones, some larger ones, some triple-tapers, and a banana for the once in a year or two when I need it, but it's the blue 10 inchers that get all the use. Sure they mushroom. Chop 'em back into shape, or rasp 'em if that's your flavor, whatever. Pitch 'em when they're done. Wedges are both necessary and expendable. Don't get hung up on this stuff.
 
I think some of you are a bit confused. The heard head wedges have a metal insert in the top, the rest of the wedge is plastic, so it's not an issue if the chain hits the wedge.

Hence the name.... kinda of like some of the spec people here.... lmao
 
I buy the cheap ones. I like the 10" ones for most everything. I have a few smaller ones, some larger ones, some triple-tapers, and a banana for the once in a year or two when I need it, but it's the blue 10 inchers that get all the use. Sure they mushroom. Chop 'em back into shape, or rasp 'em if that's your flavor, whatever. Pitch 'em when they're done. Wedges are both necessary and expendable. Don't get hung up on this stuff.

I don't think anyone is hung up on anything, its just that cheap isn't always cheaper when it requires you to fool around with them more due to having to hit them more times in the kerf and "Chop 'em back into shape, or rasp 'em if that's your flavor, whatever", The hard heads cost a little more but last twice as long or more.

With regard to the metal in them being bad for the saw chain............. well, know where your bar is.

Its one thing to nip a wedge here and there, but to just cut the crap out of them is both poor judgement in placement of the wedge and in the saw handling, neither of which do I try to make a practice of repeating often.

Sam
 
I buy the cheap ones. I like the 10" ones for most everything. I have a few smaller ones, some larger ones, some triple-tapers, and a banana for the once in a year or two when I need it, but it's the blue 10 inchers that get all the use. Sure they mushroom. Chop 'em back into shape, or rasp 'em if that's your flavor, whatever. Pitch 'em when they're done. Wedges are both necessary and expendable. Don't get hung up on this stuff.

Well said. A horse shoer's rasp will bring back the edge on the ones that get tickled by the saw or mushroomed from being hammered. I'll keep a wedge until I see any kind of crack in it, then it goes right into the recycle bin. Or gets used as a door stop.

I usually carry an assortment of sizes and I prefer the textured surface because they seem to stack better if I need to double up. 10s and 12s work best for the timber I'm usually in but once in while a little six incher might keep you out of trouble.

I've had good luck with the K and H redhead wedges that Bailey's sells. They're a good wedge for the price. They seem to hold up better than most if you have to really wail on them.

A little handful of dirt sprinkled between two wedges helps them stick better when you have to double up.
 
If you get bored, here are another 60 -70 pages of comments.

http://www.arboristsite.com/forestry-logging-forum/175184.htm

I use the basic plastic wedges, but mostly I'm bucking, not falling. Clean them up / reshape them on the band saw and belt sander when they get nicked or bit.*

I ordered a couple of the hard head wedges, but they are more expensive and much heavier, so I would only suggest them if you think that you need them.

Philbert.

*EDIT: the belt sander left a rough/porous texture to the plastic, so now I follow up with a sharp block plane on the bevels to leave a smooth surface, like they had when new.
 
I only use wedges for huge trees. Everyday hardwood, I just land them the best I can and get stuff done. Spruce logs on the other hand is more to worry about. I just use long plastic ones. Metal one's can be a a complete chain FU**! I take the save way...
 
I think some of you are a bit confused. The heard head wedges have a metal insert in the top, the rest of the wedge is plastic, so it's not an issue if the chain hits the wedge.

My point wasn't about damaging a chain, it was about an inexperienced faller ruining a $8 wedge or a 12$ wedge.
 
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I like an assortment of different colors. I do not have a green wedge or a yellow one.

I use them mostly for bucking, and buy them out of a discount bin that sometimes appears in the aisle of a big saw shop in a town on the I-5 corridor.

It is good to have them with you at other times. I used one to get a trailer hitch unhooked.
 
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blue ones are best.:rolleyes2:. 10" ers are what i grab. not to picky on brand or color, have shorter ones that got that way from tickling them short. don't have to pound them hard much, mostly hand tap or lightly with an ax for backup on it possibly setting back and pinching. that goes for falling and bucking. i don't get in to the science of wedges, they are what they are.
 
The last ones I bought were K&H red heads. They seem to hold up better than the oregon and stihl ones. I like the 5 1/2" and the 8" for most of the trees I work with. I have some 10" and 12" but they don't get used much.
 
Unless you really need to get some serious lift on a heavy back leaner I wouldnt recomend the the hard heads. I have some and theyve earned their keep on some big back leaning 40 inch ceaders. Most can be coaxed fine with plastic wich is way lighter (doesnt sag your pockets nearly as bad) and cheaper. If your hitting metal on a wedge either your using some metal fellling or splitting wedges. If your hitting the metal on a hard head with your chain find some competant instruction. if your cutting under 24" 8" or 10 inch ought to be plenty big. Become a wedge collector youll always have what you need.
 
K & H are some good assed wedges. Theyr soft, yet hard. They drive good and really hold up good.

And fyi, if you hit your wedges square they don't mushroom... I know a guy can't always do that, but there's no reason a good wedge shouldn't last a few months. At some point a Dutchman has to be learned haha..
 
I always use textured or barbed wedges, once you loose a tree to a smooth one after it spits and hits you in the shin you will throw it across the woods. The only time I have mushroomed a wedge is with a steel striking hammer, most of the time I use a cut branch to drive with unless the tree is huge or a bad leaner. Color does not matter to me but I still have a couple of aluminum wedges left somewhere. I have all different sizes but the 6-10" ones get used the most. CJ
 
View attachment 257704
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I like an assortment of different colors. I do not have a green wedge or a yellow one.

I use them mostly for bucking, and buy them out of a discount bin that sometimes appears in the aisle of a big saw shop in a town on the I-5 corridor.

It is good to have them with you at other times. I used one to get a trailer hitch unhooked.

looks like you nip the tips with the chain like mine lol
 
K & H are some good assed wedges. Theyr soft, yet hard. They drive good and really hold up good.

And fyi, if you hit your wedges square they don't mushroom... I know a guy can't always do that, but there's no reason a good wedge shouldn't last a few months. At some point a Dutchman has to be learned haha..

Hey! I represent that remark! :hmm3grin2orange: And my wedges show it!
 
I was looking for a few wedges to jack leaners over and of course wanted to check in with the locals on what works (and revive another dead thread, it seems).

K&H Red Head appear to be the most common in use by real tree guys (meaning: not me), from your feedback I understand why, I should pony up and get some. Thing is I always forget the few I have and bucking can really bind up a saw with uneven trees on uneven ground, so I cut a few wedges from limbs and then saw up a mallet from a suitable branch, and whack 'em in. They don't last long, but they also don't cost much to make, and I don't have to carry them in or out.
 
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