Filing chains

[BryanSchamber]

Just started filing my own chains. Got tired of the crappy job I was getting for 5 or 6 bucks a whack. Been doing good at the angle, but was wondering if anyone would recommend a tool from Bailey's. Getting ready to place an order. I read on another thread that a common mistake is people don't file their rakers down when needed. I'm guilty! I'm running woodland pro 30RC and have filed a few times. Any advice on this or a tool that would do me some good. Thanks.

 

[Austin1]

Just started filing my own chains. Got tired of the crappy job I was getting for 5 or 6 bucks a whack. Been doing good at the angle, but was wondering if anyone would recommend a tool from Bailey's. Getting ready to place an order. I read on another thread that a common mistake is people don't file their rakers down when needed. I'm guilty! I'm running woodland pro 30RC and have filed a few times. Any advice on this or a tool that would do me some good. Thanks.

For a beginner in filing a chain I think it is hard to beat a Oregon guide. Never tired a file O Plate.

 

[atvdave]

I've tryed the Oregon version of this bar mount file guide.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15200&catID=272

It works OK for me....

 

[BryanSchamber]

Was looking at the pferd guide, didn't see oregon on Bailey's web. Thanks for input.

 

[CentaurG2]

If you puddle around long enough on the stihl web site you will find a section called “information tips and how to”. In that section you will find a list of available videos. In the video section chapter three covers “sharpening your chainsaw”. Assuming you have high speed internet connection, the video should give you all the information you need to know. Both stihl and Oregon make good file guides.

 

[freemind]

I've tryed the Oregon version of this bar mount file guide.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15200&catID=272

It works OK for me....

I have the Oregon too. I would rather have the one you linked, and will buy it soon enough.

The Oregon has plastic parts, instead of being all metal. I don't like the slip I get occationally, in the settings.

I also have one of those bar with a file, type guides. That one works good for a quick touch up, but a good sharpening deserves the bar mount sharpener.

 

[hutch3912]

I never used a file guide and I found that because I was young, in a rush, and had no idea what I was doing I would almost make the chain duller. Having caused the damage just puttering around trying to fix it gave me enough practice free hand to be able to do it consistently. The key for me was putting the saw in a vice, because it allows you to position your saw in a comfortable and stable position for you. If you don't have room to turn the saw around in the vice you can just flip it over and you get the opposite teeth to your strong hand. Practice definitely is the key to a sharp chain and don't wait to long between sharpenings, its a lot easier to run the file through when its not quite dull then when its completely jagged.

 

[BryanSchamber]

I've been doing a decent job free handind with an old bar in a vice. I just want to make sure of angle and depth. I kinda like the looks of the bar mount. Looks like it would be stable.

 

[BryanSchamber]

hutch3912. That is definately the key. Don't let them get to far gone. I've noticed usually three strokes with the file does the job.

 

[mimilkman1]

Three strokes at every fill up. My Stihl dealer told me it's just like filleting fish. Every so often take the knife to the steel, it wasn't dull, but it makes a difference and you can cut faster. After a while you can sharpen the chain up in 2-3 mins. Then grab a drink and get back to work.

Kyle

 

[BryanSchamber]

nicely stated mi

 

[avalancher]

You ought to give one of those Pferd file guides a try. They do the depth guides at the same time. Be sure to get the right size for your chain.

I agree with TreeCo on this one, the Pferd is the way to go.
I found that those bar mounted file guides are okay,but the time that you spend setting it up on the bar will discourage you from giving it a quick swipe when filing up with fuel.
Like several have mentioned, the key to a sharp chain is to do it often and do it lightly unless you have rocked the cutters out.
I swipe the chain on every other fill up unless I am in wood that dulls the chain faster like hickory. then it gets three swipes across during every fill up.
the angles stay where they need to be that way, and no time is spent cutting with a dull chain.Once the chain actually gets dull, you are going to spend far more time getting the point back than if you had swiped the chain every fill up.
That way chain sharpening gets to be a "maintence" thing instead of a "rebuild" thing.

 

[Streblerm]

I really like these file guides for touch ups. They take care of the depth for you. There are some witness marks to help with the cutter angle too.

I also like the granberg style that clamps to the bar. I tend to use that at home and the stihl file guide in the field.

 

[Rob G.]

I also like the Pferd.

 

[TallElf]

I use the oregon bar mount. my father free handed for years and is "pretty darn good" but with that bar mount, I actually got the angles right and his saw had a new lease on life. He swears it's me, not the bar mount.

I don't think so.. :chainsawguy:

 

[johnha]

Since I started running a semi-chisel chain, I absolutely love the Carlton File-O-Plate.

 

[Farmall Guy]

I've tried a few guides and they work alright to a point, but after a while I got so I can free hand pretty good. I used to clamp the saw in a bench vice and touch it up on the saw (still give it a couple swipes on the saw at each fill up if I'm in the woods)

When I'm home in the shop I always like to take the bar and chain off to clean the clutch area and the oil holes out. About 2 months ago while doing this I got the idea to clamp the chain in the vice on my milling machine lightly clamped on the drivers. With this set up there is no movment of the chain and I can really control my angles alot better, and the file takes a smoother more consistant cut. It take a little more time but the consistancy from cutter to cutter is alot better. I've been doing it this way for a few sharpenings now and I doubt I'll be going back to the bench vice any time soon. Definatly wont be taking the chains back to the dealer either, after a quick touch up by hand his "sharp" chains actully cut pretty good

 

[jcappe]

Don't have a clue how to do it but I bought a kit and a old timer here in town is going to show me how. I always just took them into my dealer and had him do it, one more thing this site is going to make me learn.

 

[K7NUT]

I never used a file guide and I found that because I was young, in a rush, and had no idea what I was doing I would almost make the chain duller.

I kind of did the same thing for the first season of cutting. I bought those tips you can get for your Dremmel tool for sharpening chains, but I didn't have a guide for it. Turnes out I was all over the board on angles!:censored:
I finally got one of these from Harbor Freight on sale and gave it a shot. I sure love this thing, it has made my life so much easier!:jester: I have to admit, the first wheel blew into a million pieces on the first tooth! I think it had to do with me, never using one, trying to cut to fast and just plain dumb!?:blush: I was lucky nothing went in my eye!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93213

 

[logbutcher]

Another for PFERD ---field or shop, quick, easy.