Finally bought my BIG saw--needs repairs

[gee_dubya75]

Ok first off, I have been a member of this site for just over a year and bought my first saw shortly after that and because of you guys I have just purchased my 7th saw and I don't even burn wood--I just love to cut wood!!

Here's the saws I own and the order in which they were purchased:
Stihl MS-361
Makita 6401
Husqvarna 445
Stihl 025
Echo CS-440
Poulan Wildthing

(The last three saws were purchased not out of necessity but because I got them cheap)

As you can see I have the limbing and medium felling/bucking ground covered but I was really wanting a monster to pull a big bar. I thought about taking the 6401 and dropping in the 79cc or big bore kit but I've never done anything like that before and was a little uncomfortable tearing into it. I've been looking for a while for the right saw to come along and on my way home from Thanksgiving in KY I found a used Dolmar PS-9010 w/ 32" bar.

I knew that it had a broken chain brake handle and I've fixed that but I didn't realize that one of the bar studs was stripped out. I'm trying to decide how to fix it. From what I've read on this site Time-sert is the best way to repair the threads. I just don't know if I want to spend $60 on one bar stud.

Helicoil sounds like the next best option but it sounds like it won't last. Do they just become loose and you have to re-apply loctite or do you have to re-drill and tap the next biggest size?

The last option is JB weld although I couldn't find any info on this site where it was used to repair a bar stud.

So what should I do? Bite the bullet and spend the $60 and put in a Time-sert?

Anyone want to rent me their Time-sert and sell me one insert?

I'll post some pictures and maybe a video once I get it fixed and cleaned up.

 

[GoRving]

Cool! I burn wood, but like cutting it better. Sounds like you are infected with CAD.

 

[Bob Wright]

but I didn't realize that one of the bar studs was stripped out. I'm trying to decide how to fix it. From what I've read on this site Time-sert is the best way to repair the threads. I just don't know if I want to spend $60 on one bar stud.


So what should I do? Bite the bullet and spend the $60 and put in a Time-sert?

Anyone want to rent me their Time-sert and sell me one insert?

If you can get it threaded bigger i can custom make you a bar stud to fit the new threaded hole and match your other bar stud on the bar end. So you won't even know it was fixed. But you have to have enough meat to tap on your case...Bob

 

[leeha]

Helicoils are fine, I have been using them
for over 30 years and no problems. They
are stronger than the original threaded hole
and will last you forever if installed correctly.

Congrats on a nice saw. The 9010 is as good
as others in there class.


Lee

 

[Beowulf]

too nice of a saw for JB Weld in a critical area... fear not yon helicoil!

 

[gee_dubya75]

Helicoils are fine, I have been using them
for over 30 years and no problems. They
are stronger than the original threaded hole
and will last you forever if installed correctly.

Congrats on a nice saw. The 9010 is as good
as others in there class.


Lee

Do you use the red or green (#271 loctite) when using helicoils? Also, any tips to make it last forever other than making sure the threads are very clean before inserting the helicoil?

Thanks.

 

[leeha]

Do you use the red or green (#271 loctite) when using helicoils? Also, any tips to make it last forever other than making sure the threads are very clean before inserting the helicoil?

Thanks.

I don't use any loctite.
When installed correctly, you don't need it.
Helicoils come in different lengths, Make sure
you get the correct length. If it is to long you
can cut coils off them. Just don't use one thats
too short.


Lee

 

[gee_dubya75]

All set to go

Well I found the right size helicoils at work along with the drill/tap and installation tool so it looks like I'll be fixing it tonight

 

[gee_dubya75]

Drilled and tapped the hole, installed the helicoil and loctited the bar stud. It might not be as good as a Time-sert but I think this will hold up fine since this won't be my everyday saw. I put her in some wood and this baby has some torque. This is my first time running a 'big' saw and all I can say was that I looked like this :hmm3grin2orange: when I felt it ripping through a 30" log. I need to get a new chain for it as it has been filed all the way back to the witness marks. Hopefully I'll be able to get a video posted one of these days.

Until then here are some pictures:

 

[leeha]

Good looking saw. Glad it put a big smile
on yer face. Don't worry about the bar stud,
It will be fine in everyday use.



Lee

 

[tjbier]

Congrats!
That's one nice looking saw in my eyes
Looks to be a few years old but in very good shape.
Inquiring minds have to know what you got it for? if you don't mind.

 

[gee_dubya75]

Congrats!
That's one nice looking saw in my eyes
Looks to be a few years old but in very good shape.
Inquiring minds have to know what you got it for? if you don't mind.

Well, I got it for cutting wood of course.

I paid less than half of what a new one costs which I thought was a decent deal. Yes or no?

BTW how long have you been in GR. I was born and raised there.

 

[tjbier]

Well, I got it for cutting wood of course.

I paid less than half of what a new one costs which I thought was a decent deal. Yes or no?

BTW how long have you been in GR. I was born and raised there.

That would be a good price. Well done.
I have lived in the GR area all my life, grew up near Clarksville (25 miles E of GR)
and have lived where I currenty am (10 miles south of gr) for 5 years. I like it here, don't know if i could ever move out of the greater GR area.
What part you from?

 

[gee_dubya75]

Action photos

Ok, on Monday a buddy of mine calls me and tells me that he has some big wood to try out this saw in so I'm chomping at the bit all week. The problem is that every time I've cut with this saw it cuts crooked. The rails are even, no burrs and the left and right side cutters are the same length (all the way back to the witness marks) but it still cut crooked today. I was ready to pull the trigger on a new bar and chain but I think I'll try just a new chain first. Any other reason it would be cutting crooked? The bar looks like it has lots of life left in it. I measured the groove in the bar and the rails are about 1/8" away from where the drivers would be bottoming out.

Anyway after I got frustrated with my saw cutting crooked, I grabbed the 025 and started cutting the small wood until my buddy showed up with his 044 so I could put his 28" bar on my saw.

Here are the pictures:

 

[gee_dubya75]

Action photo and cutting videos

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/krIR-PzatEA?hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/krIR-PzatEA?hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/4WJoZkYbG-o?hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/4WJoZkYbG-o?hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

 

[oscar4883]

Are both the left and right side cutters equally as sharp? Also, are you forcing the saw in the cut alot? On longer bars it becomes increasingly important to keep things even. Length of cutters, but also that bothe sides are equally as sharp.

 

[SpaayDawg]

Check to make sure not only the length of the cutters are the same, but the height of the rakers too. My neighbor has a electric chain sharpener and uses it to touch his rakers as well. After 2 grinds they always start cutting to the right, everytime.

 

[gee_dubya75]

Are both the left and right side cutters equally as sharp? Also, are you forcing the saw in the cut alot? On longer bars it becomes increasingly important to keep things even. Length of cutters, but also that bothe sides are equally as sharp.

Left and right side cutters are same length and equally sharp. I am not forcing the saw but letting the weight of the saw do the cutting.

When using a bar/chain combination that is a 0.050" gauge which of the two should actually measure 0.050"....the bar groove or the driver? My drivers measure 0.050" and the bar groove measures 0.060? Does that sound right? I have a brand new 20" Oregon 0.050" gauge bar that measures closer to 0.050" (when measuring with a dial caliper). Could the groove in my 32" bar be too wide?

 

[betterbuilt]

Maybe you missed this post in a Baileys thread. Hope it helps.

This was in a Bailey's e-mail I got. Thought that it was pretty good, but some A.S. readers may have missed it, so I am 're-posting' it here.

Philbert
-------------------------

Time for a Change? The 36 Cent Chainsaw Bar Guage Determination Tool

By Dotcompost12. November 2010


Numbers worn off your bar? Forget the last time you ordered a bar or chain for your chainsaw? Dog ate your chainsaw manual? If you don't have a good way to measure your bar groove, perhaps it's time for a change. Now you too, can have a Bar Gauge Tool for the low, low price of only 36 cents. Each of the coins below will fit snugly in the corresponding gauge chainsaw bar groove.

Quarter = .063 gauge
Penny = .058 gauge
Dime = .050 gauge

Once you figure out your chainsaw bar's gauge, be sure to check out our comprehensive selection of chainsaw bars and saw chain!

 

[oscar4883]

My drivers measure 0.050" and the bar groove measures 0.060? Does that sound right? [/QUOTE]

That'll do it too.