Finished My Mill

[BlueRider]

I will be in San Jose on Wednsday the 16th milling a large elm tree. I am coming from out of town and due to travel and scheduling logistics I will be milling rain or shine. You are welcome to bring your mill down and take a slice or two as a test run. If you are interested send me a PM with your PH and I will give you a call with the location.

Nice mill.

 

[820wards]

I'm sorry to harp on this but I really do want to save you some time. The left and right hand positions still don't sound right. I assume you are standing in front of the carby, if so then I assume your left hand will be on the oiler and the right will be on the throttle?

** Bob, I will be operating the oilier with my left hand and the throttle with my right. I appreciate your concern for operating the mill. I to want it to be easy to operate, so don't feel like your harping. I like constructive criticism. Different eyes see things I don't see.

If you plan to push from the oiler handle it is too high and will want to tip the mill over.

** I though of that as well when I added the extended torsion bar that holds the throttle lever. The leverage is very good with that bar and should be easy to keep the mill from wanting to tilt forward or backwards. If once I start using the mill and I can't control the mill from rocking forward/backwards it will be easy enough for me to add a handle lower and set it up with a cable lever to operate the oil lever.

Maybe a photo of you holding onto it will help explain what you mean?

** I'll do that when it's not raining outside and I can bring the mill out of the garage.

Anyway, you are right - 10 minutes of working with it and you will either find a way to live with it or modify it accordingly. It's a very interesting design and provides much food for thought and inspiration for us all.

Thanks for the input Bob, you always have good suggestions.


jerry-

 

[820wards]

I'm sure I'll some bugs to work on once I get it running.

jerry-

Got the mill engine running today. What a beast!

My brother and I tuned the carburetor today and ran a tank of fuel through it. The bar oilier works pretty good but, I think I'm going to reduce the orifice size at the nose oilier. It's too large and I'm not getting the pressure I want. I'm getting oil, but not the amount I want when I actuate the oiling lever. I think I'm going to try getting out Tuesday with my friend try milling an Ash trunk he has.

With the 1" intake manifold, ported exhaust port and 2" exhaust pipe, this motor really breaths good. It is VERY:chainsawguy: loud. I'm going to have to look into some sore of bike muffler that is not to big. At 134cc's it really has power. I can't wait to see what it will do milling.

The exhaust is so loud a neighbor two blocks away actually drove over to see what was making all the racket. He explained he had a young child that he was trying to get down for a nap. Funny thing, three years ago I was tuning my 820 WARDS saw and the same guy came over and said the same thing. I told him that he was lucky that I was all done tuning the motor for the day. I guess I just interrupted his couch potato day... I rocked the neighborhood today guys! :rockn:

 

[olyman]

me thinks id build some sort of cover over the air filter---like a piece of thin wall conduit--and extend it away from the cutting---as it may pick up a lot of wood fibers flying---------over the outside of the filter--then with a down elbow on the end--would weigh little-----------------and i hope--the neighbor aint going to be a----------!!!!!!!!!

 

[820wards]

me thinks id build some sort of cover over the air filter---like a piece of thin wall conduit--and extend it away from the cutting---as it may pick up a lot of wood fibers flying---------over the outside of the filter--then with a down elbow on the end--would weigh little-----------------and i hope--the neighbor aint going to be a----------!!!!!!!!!

I was just talking to my friend about adding additional filter material around the air filter for milling. We have a plan....

Thanks
jerry-

 

[BobL]

I can hear the mean sound from here 820! Sort of rumbly throaty??

I was just talking to my friend about adding additional filter material around the air filter for milling. We have a plan....

Thanks
jerry-

I agree with Olyman, it's right in the firing line for dust, Maybe a wrap around cowling/cover?

How is the chip direction ejection situation look?

Cheers

 

[BIG JAKE]

Beautiful assy there Jerry-great fab work. Very nice! Only two things I could imagine you'd want in addition (cut height adjust screws and wheels on the bottom slide plates(other than fine tuning layouts such as handle pos if needed). Gad dang-very nice indeed! A video with sound down the road if you have time Jerry as I'd like to hear run. What is the dry weight of the rig? Thanks for posting.

 

[splitpost]

very nice ,looks almost surgical

 

[dallasm1]

That is SO awesome. NEED video.http://arboristsite.com/images/smilies/jawdrop.gif

 

[mtngun]

The bar oilier works pretty good but, I think I'm going to reduce the orifice size at the nose oilier. It's too large and I'm not getting the pressure I want. I'm getting oil, but not the amount I want when I actuate the oiling lever.

Excellent workmanship, 820wards, but I'm not getting why you need to pump oil with a lever. Why not use a gravity drip like the rest of us ?

 

[Ted J]

Excellent workmanship, 820wards, but I'm not getting why you need to pump oil with a lever. Why not use a gravity drip like the rest of us ?

You could always add air pressure to the oil container and use the hand lever just to control flow while milling.

 

[BobL]

Excellent workmanship, 820wards, but I'm not getting why you need to pump oil with a lever. Why not use a gravity drip like the rest of us ?

His power head has no integrated oil pump, so if he wants to guarantee oil somewhere in the bar groove - as per a CS power head, I agree he should pump it. At 134 cc that thing will cook a B&C pretty quickly without oil. If an aux oiler blocks on a conventional set up, hopefully the powerhead continues to supply some oil but on his setup he will want something a bit more certain. One of the small headaches of using a straight motor - I guess.

 

[820wards]

I can hear the mean sound from here 820! Sort of rumbly throaty??



I agree with Olyman, it's right in the firing line for dust, Maybe a wrap around cowling/cover?

How is the chip direction ejection situation look?

Cheers

Bob,

The wraparound filter material is what I'm planning to use. My brother is in the air-conditioning business and he has some filter material I can cut and wrap the filter element. He told me it should be good for the fine dust the chain will make. This way I can change the material during a day of milling.

As for chip deflection. I did make a deflector for the chips. Since I have not milled any wood with the mill yet, I can't report how good it works.

I was hoping to mill this week, but we have rain forecast for the remainder of the week. If if stops by this weekend, I just my get the mill out.

jerry-

 

[820wards]

BIG JAKE;
Beautiful assy there Jerry-great fab work. Very nice! Only two things I could imagine you'd want in addition (cut height adjust screws and wheels on the bottom slide plates

** When I initially built the mill I used the same design as the Alaskan mills. I have seen the wheel additions that Bob installed on his mill an how he bolts his bar to the adjustment posts. I will probably do this type conversion after I get the mill out and mill with it a few times.

(other than fine tuning layouts such as handle pos if needed).

** I'm sure I will need additional handle holds and those will be easy to fab.

Gad dang-very nice indeed! A video with sound down the road if you have time Jerry as I'd like to hear run.

** Thanks, I plan to video the mill when I get it out. Rain in the forecast all this week, maybe this weekend it will let up and I can get the mill out.


What is the dry weight of the rig?

** Dry the mill weights 55 pounds. I have tried to fabricate as much of the mill from aluminum or thin wall stainless steel. The frame that the motor is bolted to is steel and I have drilled as many holes as possible in it to reduce it's weight, but it's still steel...

jerry-

 

[820wards]

That is SO awesome. NEED video.http://arboristsite.com/images/smilies/jawdrop.gif

I will, I will!

This rainy weather is killing me here that I can't get it out.

jerry-

 

[820wards]

Excellent workmanship, 820wards, but I'm not getting why you need to pump oil with a lever. Why not use a gravity drip like the rest of us ?

After getting the motor started for the first time this past weekend I'm thinking I may set up a second oil tank to drip feed the nose of the bar. The diameter of the nose oil fitting id is too large and trying to pump oil the nose isn't enough to my liking. The pump oils at the drive end of the bar great so I was hoping the pump would have enough oil pressure at both ends of the bar. It doesn't, so a drip oilier I know will work. I'll need to machine some fittings for another aluminum bottle this week since it will be raining.

jerry-

 

[820wards]

You could always add air pressure to the oil container and use the hand lever just to control flow while milling.

Ted,

I have thought of that too. It would be my luck I'd blow the tank up.

I think I will use the tried and trued drip feed method like most people are using.

jerry-

 

[820wards]

His power head has no integrated oil pump, so if he wants to guarantee oil somewhere in the bar groove - as per a CS power head, I agree he should pump it. At 134 cc that thing will cook a B&C pretty quickly without oil. If an aux oiler blocks on a conventional set up, hopefully the powerhead continues to supply some oil but on his setup he will want something a bit more certain. One of the small headaches of using a straight motor - I guess.

Bob is right, this is the biggest problem no using a traditional chainsaw. But, then it would be just another chainsaw mill. I have to have fun figuring this stuff out to make this engine work.

Bob,

If I were to use an old style Oregon roller tip that is exposed and not within the bar. I could attach a gear or shaft to it that I could turn a small pump to oil the bar just as a traditional saw would oil, right? ?????

jerry-

 

[mtngun]

The only reason I put oil in my saw's oil tank is that I'm afraid it'll hurt the pump to run dry. The aux oiler seems to do most of the "work". I suspect that I could remove the pump and mill using only the aux oiler, though I haven't actually tried it.

Admittedly, I've had problems with the aux oiler plugging up.

820wardsm, perhaps you already answered this earlier, but do you have any idea of your motor rpm's, either WOT or in the cut ? Just curious if your chain speed is anything out of the ordinary ?

 

[BobL]

The only reason I put oil in my saw's oil tank is that I'm afraid it'll hurt the pump to run dry. The aux oiler seems to do most of the "work".

I agree it does, Going from the 19 mL/min max flow on the 076 to the 38 mL/min on the 880 what I see happening is most of that extra 19 mL/min getting flung off at the nose. Running the power head oiler at 19 mL/min and the aux oiler at 20 mL/min is much more effective that running just the power head oiler at 38 mL/min.

I suspect that I could remove the pump and mill using only the aux oiler, though I haven't actually tried it.

You can always remove the oil pump completely but I would advise against this. The drive sprocket has a much smaller radius that the nose sprocket and is very effective at removing oil from the chain. If you stopped the powerhead oiler working the chain would have to do do a dry run across the back/top of the bar.

Admittedly, I've had problems with the aux oiler plugging up.

820wardsm, perhaps you already answered this earlier, but do you have any idea of your motor rpm's, either WOT or in the cut ? Just curious if your chain speed is anything out of the ordinary ?

Here's a spec sheet for that engine.
http://www.go-anywhere.us/USMotorPower820/htm820Motor.htm