First milling (+DIY Mill)

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harrygrey382

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Well I've finally built a CSM. I must say a big thanks to Jerry (820onwards) for the pictures he sent me and advice. I went for a mild steel construction apart from the rails (ally 2" U channel). Jerry's clamp device allows for quick depth adjustment and a rigid coupling.

I did make it hard for myself though - went I went home for the weekend to build it (from uni) I left my angle griner... so I put hacksaw and file to good use.

The angle iron was slightly oversive as the clamp for the square tube though, I welded some insert/sapces on them but then the bolts were too short. It'll all be ok when I get back with the grinder. Might neaten up some wels too, not quite up to Jerry's standards.

I put it on my 056AV (non-super), after new rings. The 36" ripping chain and sprocket & drum I got from Baileys hadn't arrived so couldn't use the 076. I reckon you wouldn't want to go any bigger with that saw. It flew through smaller stuff though.

It was slower work than I imagined ripping the 25" dead oak. I went through almost a tank (of oil and mix) every (2.4m) pass, also touched the chain up. But I ended up with some fine wood, and was very pleased with the whole process. Will now be looking for trunks to mill the whole time!

Can't wait to try the 076 out too, left it on corss cut duty for now and went pretty well. Still slightly apprehensive about the P&C though - aftermarket piston in suspect cylinder. Anyone know of a good 2nd hand one?

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Nice job on the mill!! Are you pulling (instead of pushing)the mill through the log for any reason in particular?:cheers:
 
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Thanks for posting the pics of your new mill. It looks like it will cut plenty of wood. Any chance of seeing some pics of the slabs?

Maybe it's just those particular shots, but it looks like you are milling slightly uphill? and the pulling the mill pics with arms spread far apart gave me a sore back just looking at them. Even if the tree is quite dead it shouldn't look quite that hard. The 076 with ripping chain will help but if you can get even one end of the trunk up off the ground and mill on a downhill slope you will find that you don't need to push anywhere near as hard - if you need to push hard there is something wrong with the set up.

I can see what looks like a couple of nails to stop the your rails (ladder) from sliding back and forth but how do you stop the ladder from turning on the trunk?

You might also want to think about some more PPE ie eye protection

Oh, and add some entry skids (or better still a wheel) to the front of the inboard bar clamps so the inboard clamps don't bog on the side of the tree.

Sorry if I sound too critical - I made my first mill before I joined AS - I had no one to tell me about any of these things so I learned the hardway.

Cheers
 
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thanks for the comments guys, I sure was having fun!
I'll answer a few of them:
Sometimes I pulled, sometimes I pushed, whatever was more comfortable. Generally I pushed though, mainly due to exhaust fumes when pulling
I'm milling pretty level, really, maybe very slightly down hill, camera might not have been level etc.
In tose shots the ladder was stopped turning because I sliced a flat off with the 076.
Good one on the skids for the bar clamps - that was one of the reasons I needed to push/pull hard sometimes. I didn't need to exert much force normally, just keeping balance and stopping the clamps digging in.
Why do you say eye protection? I've done a fair bit of cutting/worked with regular cutters and they don't tend to wear eye protection. Would you say from a chain breaking danger or rogue splinters? I didn't have chips coming at me but I guess it wouldn't hurt to wear some. Kind of hate the hot eyes and obscured vision - I think clear vision is a good safety factor.
I'm definitely planning on getting a 7 tooth sprocket for the 056, it was boggin on the big cuts with the 8 tooth, as I'm sure some would have predicted. Overall I was pleased with it though. It worked hard all day and nothing vibrated loose or played up.
 
Good job with the mill. Looks like it should work OK.:cheers:

I never use to wear eye protection when running a CS when younger. Luckily I never got hurt seriously. I just got sick of getting sawdust chips in the back of my eyes.:cry: I find I can look at what I am doing with out have to squint. I always were safety glasses now.

Ryan
 
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...Why do you say eye protection? I've done a fair bit of cutting/worked with regular cutters and they don't tend to wear eye protection. Would you say from a chain breaking danger or rogue splinters? I didn't have chips coming at me but I guess it wouldn't hurt to wear some. Kind of hate the hot eyes and obscured vision - I think clear vision is a good safety factor...

Nice job on the mill, looks heavy duty enough and you're going down the right track (no pun intended). Not sure I would ever pull a running saw towards me though... even if it is buried in wood. As for eye protection... anytime you are around moving equipment with chips and such flying everywhere it's a good idea to have something in front of your eyes. Even though chips are flying out the side of your saw, I've had cases where chips richocheted off something and came back at me. I wear glasses, and although not ideal because it wouldn't keep pieces from coming in from either side of them, works for me. If I did not wear glasses, or if I wore contacts only, I would definitely wear a pair of safety glasses. You don't have to get those tight fitting ones that do fog up inside, but a pair that look a lot like a pair of regular glasses.

Bottom line though... good job on the mill, and keep us posted on your future progress with it.
 
Hey Harry,

The mill looks good. As for wearing safety glasses, in the words of my wise old dad with only one eye from an industrial accident. "You only get two chances to loose an eye". If you don't like wearing glasses or goggles, try one of the wood cutting hard hats that has the fine mesh screens. At least it's something to protect your eyes and they have ear protection built on them.

Work safe, it's more fun!

jerry-
 
Within 5 minutes of me first using my big mill the chunky brass aux oil cap vibrated loose off the aux oil tank and dropped onto the chain under WOT and flung the cap straight at my right eye. It felt like I was hit by a rock from a slingshot (yep I do know what it feels like, as a kid I had the [mis]fortune of surviving a rock from a slingshot striking me fair in the middle of my forehead). Luckily I had a full face polycarbonate visor on!
 
Thanks, Harry.

I appreciate the closeups of how your clamps are built. Building some clamps myself just now, you just made that easier.

Here is a page that might help you post the size photos you want. Scroll down about one quarter, look at the section marked "Graphics and Sound". It shows how to do it. But, frankly, big can be beautiful.

http://www.fortunecity.com/help/development/html/tags.shtml

The ladder might benefit from a piece of angle iron (aluminium?). Fastened across the bottom edges of the rails (as the ladder sits while in use) a foot or so in from the end you start to mill from. A couple holes for woodscrews to fasten the angle piece firmly to the log. That should make the ladder a bit more stable. Probably a bit more to it than that. Comments, old guys? This point is a bit mysterious to a newbi like myself.

I will speak up for "safety glasses" also, but I have to use quotes, because I generally wear sunglasses. And a ball cap. Yes, I am a bad boy. But it is always much easier to lay hands on a pair of sunglasses. Yeah. I know that is not an excuse, I should use real safety equipment. Not just stuff that falls easily to hand. On the other hand, I just will not operate a saw with out something covering my eyes. It has just been too many times I have been hit in the face with assorted speedy bits of flying nasty. And I like being able to see.

An aside : When I was eight, Mr. Ellis, the principal of Oak Lake elementary, showed me how to get a little sand out of my eye. Sand that I simply could not get rid of. For about half an hour. He said, "Simply grab the upper lashes. Pull out, then down across the lower lashes. Then let go." Nearly every time, this will move the bit of crud onto the lower lashes, where it may be easily wiped away. Mr Ellis was one of the good ones, and I pass along his very good advice.

Wondering, have you put your creation on a scale?

Was there trouble handling the weight/bulk when you went to start it? Did you start it resting on the ladder?

Are you thinking of putting a handlebar on it, so you can grab it where ever you like, or are you satisfied without?

If you use the mill without the ladder, you will need to add an "On-Off Bar" between your aluminum U-bars, so you can easily keep the mill lined up with the top surface while starting your cut.

What about locktite on those nuts? You say there was no problem with pieces quitting early, were you feeling much vibration? Was wondering if lock washers or locktite was expected or desired.

Thanks for the photos. Sorry about all the questions.
Frosted Flake
 
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I hate cheap safety glasses... they fog up and are not optically clear. Stihl sells a couple different styles and there's one of them that suits me... no fog and no distortion. Smith & Wesson sells some good shooting glasses that are also clear and comfortable. I don't like the tinted glasses.

Nice job with the mill!

Ian
 
I appreciate the closeups of how your clamps are built. Building some clamps myself just now, you just made that easier.

The ladder might benefit from a piece of angle iron (aluminium?). Fastened across the bottom edges of the rails (as the ladder sits while in use) a foot or so in from the end you start to mill from. A couple holes for woodscrews to fasten the angle piece firmly to the log. That should make the ladder a bit more stable. Probably a bit more to it than that. Comments, old guys? This point is a bit mysterious to a newbi like myself.

Wondering, have you put your creation on a scale?

Was there trouble handling the weight/bulk when you went to start it? Did you start it resting on the ladder?

Are you thinking of putting a handlebar on it, so you can grab it where ever you like, or are you satisfied without?

If you use the mill without the ladder, you will need to add an "On-Off Bar" between your aluminum U-bars, so you can easily keep the mill lined up with the top surface while starting your cut.

What about locktite on those nuts? You say there was no problem with pieces quitting early, were you feeling much vibration? Was wondering if lock washers or locktite was expected or desired.

The ladder could definitely benefit from some sort or fixing device, your description sounds good. But I was in a real rush - I had 2 days to make the mill and mill/transport the mill. I'd never milled before and didn't have an angle grinder for the weekend...

I haven't weighed it, but it's pretty light. Not that it matters that much, apart from start and finish. It could do with some entry.exit rails. The few times I cut without the ladder I eyeballed it. Was ok. I used the ladder for most cuts as the angle iron clamp interfeard with the muffler if it got too low (will be ok after a grinding) so I used the ladder to make the depth up. That solved the entry/exit cutting too.

I will put a handle bar in it, just wasn't essential. I didn't use locktight, I used spring washers. Jerry recommended nylocks. I didn't use psring washers on the depth clamps because the bolts were too short (grinding/longer bolts will sort that out), but had rubber to the grip the stube, and this stopped the nuts vibrating loose too.

Thanks for the interest/suggestions.
Harry
 
the mill looks good.

The 1st log I ever milled, I wasn't wearing safety glasses. I was milling the 3rd or 4th board off, and I hit a buried nail that had been in the tree for 50 to 60 years. It hit me in the cheek. I immediately went out and bought a helmet/faceshield. I like all my limbs, eyes etc, and mill with chaps, helmet, gloves, and the shortest bar possible for the job.

My mentor, my grandfather, was missing many fingertips, part of his right ear, and one eye. He cut one finger tip off right in front of me when I was 9 or so. I am quite possible the safest guy out there milling. I want to go to bed tonight with all my body parts intact.
 
The ladder could definitely benefit from some sort or fixing device, your description sounds good. But I was in a real rush - I had 2 days to make the mill and mill/transport the mill. I'd never milled before and didn't have an angle grinder for the weekend...

My milling ladder has a few holes drilled in the rungs. I get the ladder level on the log (with a bit of packing maybe), and nail it tight to the log. I have a selection of nails - 2 -> 6", and I drive them maybe an inch into the log. Two at each end does the job, and I count them in and out - don't want nails lying around.

PPE - I use my Stihl helmet with face screen and ear defenders (+ear plugs). I used not to wear chaps, but I've read several stories here about chains letting go....so now I wear them.

Oh - nice Series Landy in the pics...!
 
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Nice looking mill it looks well made. I'm sure it will serve you well for a long time. As an observation I'm wondering if you feel a lot of vibration holding the clamping riser which is securing the chain bar. If so, you may benefit from adding a sliding handle along the top rails ala the Alaskan. I know when I first milled, I didn't use this feature until I realized my hands were absorbing a lot of vibration. The handle is more isolated from the saw and you can add a soft grip of some kind such as a piece of pipe insulation or such to help with further separating your hand from the mill. Best of luck and happy milling!
 
yeah safety glasses cheap or not are a must have. Don't wait until it's to late, cause monocle safety glasses are alot harder to find :)
 

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