Fiskars X27 What a Piece of Plastic

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IDK why some people seems to correlate "cheap metal" with the Fiskars wedge and I don't really agree with them. It's a different steel than the normal maul or axe and its brittle, that doesn't make it cheap, just different material properties. Run it into a rock and it wont fair as well as the normal axe/maul but that shouldn't be a measure of its quality or effectiveness. I've processed about 15 cords with mine and I sharpen it with a file to keep it sharp. I don't let it get dull and ever since I nicked a small rock with the top corner I always make sure I wont run it to ground. Not a hard change in behavior and it makes the tool last.

Well, the $28, 6 pound maul I bought a week or 2 ago with a Hickory handle is broke. Handle was getting loose, ended up in about 4 pieces. So, by the time I get a new handle, could have had a Fiskas for about same price, or well on my way. Minus the time I got grinding on the head. New to splitting by hand, but never had any overstrikes........

Wait till you break one more handle, you'd wish you bought a Fiskars sooner.
 
IDK why some people seems to correlate "cheap metal" with the Fiskars wedge and I don't really agree with them. It's a different steel than the normal maul or axe and its brittle, that doesn't make it cheap, just different material properties. Run it into a rock and it wont fair as well as the normal axe/maul but that shouldn't be a measure of its quality or effectiveness. I've processed about 15 cords with mine and I sharpen it with a file to keep it sharp. I don't let it get dull and ever since I nicked a small rock with the top corner I always make sure I wont run it to ground. Not a hard change in behavior and it makes the tool last.



Wait till you break one more handle, you'd wish you bought a Fiskars sooner.

Agree fully. To think that the designers of this tool are using "cheap material" is laughable. They've been in busness a long, long time and the tool has a 'no questions asked' return policy.

Harry K
 
I made a convert the other day. Offered a buddy a 1/2 cord of rounds I had already bucked. He came out with trailer to load, I loaned him my X27. Next day he came back for a different batch and this time he asked for it. Kept shaking his head how easy it made things. I also turned him onto my hookeroon. He'll be getting both :)

Harry K
 
I respectfully disagree with pretty much every statement I've seen you make about the Fiskars. I agree with it performing very well for the price, and that the design is great. Where you're losing me is the "materials are cheap" bit. I have put my Fiskars through somewhere between 8 and 10 cords of wood since last fall, some on a splitting block, and some on the ground. I have yet to have to touch it with a file, sharpener, etc. It has a wicked sharp edge still, and splits as well, if not better, today than it did the day I started swinging it. Sure, it's no secret that the head of an X27 is softer metal than some of your typical axe- or maul-head alloys, but the tool is not designed to split rocks and crack concrete. You seem to be aware of that as you mention it "only connects with wood," but that is what makes me doubt your credibility. There's no way you are chipping your blade-edge on wood, unless maybe you are trying to chop trees down. I'm sure smacking bark and limbing trunks will have a much more detrimental impact on edge longevity, but I don't use my Fiskars for those tasks so I wouldn't know. As I said, I have sent mine through 8-10 cords of wood, some of which was set on the good ol' ground, and I still have no nicks, chips, or dulling. The only way I'm seeing "cheap" as being an accurate descriptor is if we are talking overall cost vs. overall performance. If that's the case, then by all means, this thing is as cheap as Hamm's Beer and peanuts.

Anyway that's just my two cents, which I've been told may be suffering from inflation, depending on the topic at hand. By all means, buy what you like, swing what you want, and have fun. Good day to all and good luck drying out after all this freeze and thaw nonsense we're having here lately.:cheers:

Hahaha I'm sorry you feel you have to question my credibility. I'm not sure why my X27 gets dulled from splitting on a chopping block inside a tire. I thought it might be that I was somehow cutting through the rubber and hitting wire at times but I don't see any evidence of that. I also don't know why you guys can't accept the FACT that the X27 is made from cheap low cost materials. It's just not quality metal and there is no getting around it. Just because you split 10 cords doesn't change that fact. It's a great tool for the price and it works well (even great) in some applications. I don't hate on it, I just see reality.
 
... I also don't know why you guys can't accept the FACT that the X27 is made from cheap low cost materials. It's just not quality metal and there is no getting around it. Just because you split 10 cords doesn't change that fact. ...

Your entitled to your opinion but its just that, an opinion with no fact. You are making an assumption based on your observations and not facts. Just because the steel is more brittle does not mean its cheap and low cost, for all we know it might be more expensive to produce than other steels. Plain and simple, it's steel just has different material properties as compared to the other axes and mauls. I personally have no issue keeping the edge sharp when splitting. I do keep it tuned up with a flat file and its probably more sharp than some pocket knives. Also, the handle is not your average plastic. Im not quite sure that they use but it is QUALITY to be able to take the kind of beating I put it through. If you compared the cost of the Fiskars handle to the cost of a wooden handel I would be willing to bet that Fiskars is more expensive and given its durability I consider it to be better quality than wood and fiberglass.
 
I have no idea how to test or determine what is what when it comes to steel. Maybe someone here knows how and has the means and skills to test a fiskars compared to some other axes and mauls.
 
I have no idea how to test or determine what is what when it comes to steel. Maybe someone here knows how and has the means and skills to test a fiskars compared to some other axes and mauls.

It's kind of complicated and takes special equipment. Look up spectral analysis. That would give you all the properties of its elements. Combine that with hardness testing you should be able to determine what it is and heat treat. Also, electron microscope to look at grain boundary. Usually the spectra is the tell-all though.

 
It's kind of complicated and takes special equipment. Look up spectral analysis. That would give you all the properties of its elements. Combine that with hardness testing you should be able to determine what it is and heat treat. Also, electron microscope to look at grain boundary. Usually the spectra is the tell-all though.



Cool vid and nice description you gave.

To my eyes, just my eyes, fiskars steel seems "closer" to like a file, that sort of steel, over my other tools like that? Does that make sense?
 
Steel is complex, and also a general term, like 'food'. You can give 2 people the same ingredients (eggs, flour, sugar, milk, etc.), and depending how they mix, and handle, and bake them, one person will produce a beautiful cake or souffle', and the other will make some kind of slop that the dogs won't eat. Same thing with steel: iron, carbon, chrome, nickel, etc.

There are different, desirable attributes, such as: hardness, tensile strength, ductility, etc.; and undesirable attributes, such as brittleness, corrosion, etc. So you really need to know what design parameters the Fiskars engineers were seeking when choosing the alloy that they did, before criticizing it. I can buy a 'cheap' axe or maul for much less than a Fiskars, often at the same stores.

Folks are obsessed over the composite ('cheap plastic') handle should really freak out about materials used in $5,000 bicycles and $300 million aircraft. I like the way that the weight is optimized in the striking head of the Fiskars by using the lighter handle. If folks like lifting the heavier, conventional mauls, I promise not to make fun of them, or their 'higher quality' alloys (typically from low cost vendors in Mexico or India these days).

Philbert
 
Hahaha I'm sorry you feel you have to question my credibility. I'm not sure why my X27 gets dulled from splitting on a chopping block inside a tire. I thought it might be that I was somehow cutting through the rubber and hitting wire at times but I don't see any evidence of that. I also don't know why you guys can't accept the FACT that the X27 is made from cheap low cost materials. It's just not quality metal and there is no getting around it. Just because you split 10 cords doesn't change that fact. It's a great tool for the price and it works well (even great) in some applications. I don't hate on it, I just see reality.

I think you completely missed the point of my post, but that's alright. All I'm saying is that if you are going to throw out an opinion on something, tell us why. If I wanted to hear opinions with no supporting evidence, I'd visit the comment section of a YouTube video. If it is FACT that it is all cheap, provide some EVIDENCE. Anyway, like I said before... Buy what you like, swing what you want. I take no personal offense to someone not liking the same product as me, I just want to know WHY you don't like it in case it is something that might affect me.

Oh, and @zogger , a Rockwell test would give you the hardness of the steel (or whatever material you are testing), but without knowing the composition of the alloy you can't really determine whether or not something has been heat treated, or to what degree. Like @Marshy mentioned, using spectral analysis or a scanning electron microscope would be the best way to determine the alloy. However, unless one of you guys has an SEM in your garage, I doubt we will ever make it that far :)
 
I think you completely missed the point of my post, but that's alright. All I'm saying is that if you are going to throw out an opinion on something, tell us why. If I wanted to hear opinions with no supporting evidence, I'd visit the comment section of a YouTube video. If it is FACT that it is all cheap, provide some EVIDENCE. Anyway, like I said before... Buy what you like, swing what you want. I take no personal offense to someone not liking the same product as me, I just want to know WHY you don't like it in case it is something that might affect me.

Oh, and @zogger , a Rockwell test would give you the hardness of the steel (or whatever material you are testing), but without knowing the composition of the alloy you can't really determine whether or not something has been heat treated, or to what degree. Like @Marshy mentioned, using spectral analysis or a scanning electron microscope would be the best way to determine the alloy. However, unless one of you guys has an SEM in their garage, I doubt we will ever make it that far :)
So where is your "evidence" that it IS quality steel? I think you missed my point. All I'm saying is that the X27 is made from cheap materials (based on my experience and the retail price of around $55) and that it is the design of the tool that makes it very effective. I don't hate it or have a problem with it. I use one!
 
So where is your "evidence" that it IS quality steel? I think you missed my point. All I'm saying is that the X27 is made from cheap materials (based on my experience and the retail price of around $55) and that it is the design of the tool that makes it very effective. I don't hate it or have a problem with it. I use one!

I never claimed that it is quality steel, I just disagreed with you saying that it is made of cheap materials. It's made of DIFFERENT materials, but they are extremely effective when used in the design Fiskars has put out. That alone is enough evidence for me to be convinced it was made right, and it wasn't an accident. Either way, I'm not here to argue or run in circles, I just wanted to hear what your reasoning was since you seem to be very adamant about it. You got your opinion, I got mine... no big deal. Have a good one.
 
So where is your "evidence" that it IS quality steel? I think you missed my point. All I'm saying is that the X27 is made from cheap materials (based on my experience and the retail price of around $55) and that it is the design of the tool that makes it very effective. I don't hate it or have a problem with it. I use one!

So if they priced it at $150 your complaints would end?

Harry K
 
Steel is complex, and also a general term, like 'food'. You can give 2 people the same ingredients (eggs, flour, sugar, milk, etc.), and depending how they mix, and handle, and bake them, one person will produce a beautiful cake or souffle', and the other will make some kind of slop that the dogs won't eat. Same thing with steel: iron, carbon, chrome, nickel, etc.

There are different, desirable attributes, such as: hardness, tensile strength, ductility, etc.; and undesirable attributes, such as brittleness, corrosion, etc. So you really need to know what design parameters the Fiskars engineers were seeking when choosing the alloy that they did, before criticizing it. I can buy a 'cheap' axe or maul for much less than a Fiskars, often at the same stores.

Folks are obsessed over the composite ('cheap plastic') handle should really freak out about materials used in $5,000 bicycles and $300 million aircraft. I like the way that the weight is optimized in the striking head of the Fiskars by using the lighter handle. If folks like lifting the heavier, conventional mauls, I promise not to make fun of them, or their 'higher quality' alloys (typically from low cost vendors in Mexico or India these days).

Philbert

But those "plastic" materials used in the bicycles and planes magically change to quality when the price tag is added.

Harry K
 

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