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Took my Nikon out, here are some better pictures:

View attachment 278482View attachment 278483

After some cleaning up (it's not perfect but already removed a lot of it, should I remove more?):
View attachment 278484

Like you see, it is only the lower part that's bad. The rest stays sharp.

During the day, I just sharpened the edge so there were no burrs left. But a part of the damage stayed (I didn't file the whole edge back) so should I file it so that the edge looks perfect again?
Is it possible that it's my own fault, maybe hitting some dirt in the beginning and didn't sharpen it enough so that the 'not real sharp' part gets damaged each time?
I try to avoid the complex logs to save the edge and throw them aside to noodle, but the damage shouldn't be this big imo. So if it's my own fault, shoot and tell me what I should do.
 
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Just taking a shot in the dark here, have you removed the beads from your splitting tire?

I've found that it's not necessary to have a perfect edge. It'll work fine with a nick or 2 or 3 as I'm sure you're well aware of...
 
Just taking a shot in the dark here, have you removed the beads from your splitting tire?

I've found that it's not necessary to have a perfect edge. It'll work fine with a nick or 2 or 3 as I'm sure you're well aware of...
Damn, you may have a point there. I just took an old tire my father used to place between the car and the wall, to drive against. The beads weren't removed :bang:. That's why the damage is to the lower part ofc. Thanks! I've cut out most of the tire now so shouldn't be a problem anymore. It's 9pm here and going back to university tomorrow so will have to wait a few days before I split again. I've cut the beads open but there was no iron or so in it, just rope, can this cause the nicks?
 
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Just taking a shot in the dark here, have you removed the beads from your splitting tire?

I've found that it's not necessary to have a perfect edge. It'll work fine with a nick or 2 or 3 as I'm sure you're well aware of...
Damn, you may have a point there. I just took an old tire my father used to place between the car and the wall, to drive against. The beads weren't removed :bang:. That's why the damage is to the lower part ofc. Thanks! I've cut out most of the tire now so shouldn't be a problem anymore. It's 9pm here and going back to university tomorrow so will have to wait a few days before I split again. I've cut the beads open but there was no iron or so in it, just rope, can this cause the nicks?
 
I wouldn't think cloth/fabric rope would do it. The tire I have had metal wire in the bead. You could use a metal detector if you have one to see if there is anything in the tire. Or just never hit the tire again...
 
I wouldn't think cloth/fabric rope would do it. The tire I have had metal wire in the bead. You could use a metal detector if you have one to see if there is anything in the tire. Or just never hit the tire again...
I've cut all the stuff out of the tire to be sure, nothing to hit anymore. I feel silly if this ends up to be the prob :bang:
 
So what is the best way of cutting the bead out of a tire? Looking to do the same once I get a bigger chopping block.
 
I like the beed on the tire. Gives it rigidity. I use a 20 in truck tire. If your block is not big enough, use 2x4s in a triangle screwed to the block, tire screwed to them.
 
Just went to sears and picked up an X27. Got tired of listening to you guys raving on the fiskars (and really tired of swinging an 8lb maul). If it wasn't raining I probably wouldn't have come back to work I'm wanting to try it out so bad. Got a big white oak to work on tomorrow so I'm gonna give it a run then. Bought a 575xp a month or so back and it made the cutting a lot less like work so maybe the magic axe will help with the busting cause that part is still very low on the fun scale. Really starting to enjoy seeing that wood pile grow. Quick question: if somebody mentions a heat pump on here do you guys back up real fast and make a cross with your fingers? Mine hasn't run any for the past few winters though.
 
Hi!

I am Patrik from Sweden!

Here we do not talk about any Fiskars x whatever axes for chopping
firewood but instead of Gränsfors - they rule simply - their 7 pound
32 inch axe is the standard! See here

http://www.gransfors.se/htm_sve/produkter/yxorkofotar.html

Domestically they are well-known to be virtually unparalleled in per-
formance ... .

Godbye!
 
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Just went to sears and picked up an X27. Got tired of listening to you guys raving on the fiskars (and really tired of swinging an 8lb maul). If it wasn't raining I probably wouldn't have come back to work I'm wanting to try it out so bad. Got a big white oak to work on tomorrow so I'm gonna give it a run then. Bought a 575xp a month or so back and it made the cutting a lot less like work so maybe the magic axe will help with the busting cause that part is still very low on the fun scale. Really starting to enjoy seeing that wood pile grow. Quick question: if somebody mentions a heat pump on here do you guys back up real fast and make a cross with your fingers? Mine hasn't run any for the past few winters though.

I don't know about the heat pump, but we were totally kidding about the Fiskars. Pieces of junk...
 
Hi!

I am Patrik from Sweden!

Here we do not talk about any Fiskars x whatever axes for chopping
firewood but instead of Gränsfors - they rule simply - their 7 pound
32 inch axe is the standard! See here

Gränsfors Bruks AB

Domestically they are well-known to be virtually unparalleled in per-
formance ... .

Godbye!

I just dont get why some people just wont give credit when credit is due. How the heck can you go wrong with buying a axe for 40 bucks with lifetime warr. and that is half the weight and works like a dream.:rock: Not saying other products arent good but why pay alot more for a tool when you dont have to.
 
knife works fine for cutting the bead and about half the sidewall off

So what is the best way of cutting the bead out of a tire? Looking to do the same once I get a bigger chopping block.

The tires don't need to be ridged. Using two tied together works much better than only one. I poke holes in the side walls where they touch
and whip stitch them with bailing wire. Sawsall and jig saw won't work nearly as well as a knife. A neighbor worked for half an hour with a sawsall until I took pity on him and cut his tires in about 5 min with an old paring knife. He had only managed to cut about two inches.

Oh, you don't cut thru the bead, just poke the knife thru the middle of the sidewall and using a sawing motion cut around until the center falls out.

Chopping blocks are a waste of time and energy. Splitting on the ground is safer, a miss lick can't hit you like it can if your splitting with rounds setting on another block. The lower your swing ends the more speed and force is delivered to the split. If your splitting kindling with a hatchet the splitting block makes sense.

Using tires to hold the rounds in place also prevents hitting the ground, unless you really want to! That allows stronger strikes because you aren't subconsciously holding back a little.
 
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I use the tire at ground level and only for the rounds that will fit, or a load of kindling. Yesterday I had some oak at least as large as the tire and that I just split on the ground. I used to use a chopping block, but have since moved away from it. (split it up and used if for firewood)

The best part of the tire is it is extremely moveable by either dragging it or using your feet so that you can move to where the wood is at rather than bringing the wood to the tire. Well, that plus it keeps the wood contained so your not forever chasing splits or righting the hunk of wood your splitting. N if I'm not using the tire, I do tend to put the axe into the ground. Not that it is necessarily a bad thing unless you hit a rock, otherwise it's aerating the lawn or ground. :msp_w00t: I don't fret about nicks n chips in the axe head though. It will still get the job done.

When I'm done for the day, I'll put a fresh edge on the x27 if necessary and finish it with the fiskars sharpener, then wipe it down with B&C or motorcycle chain oil.
 
Sorry if rude and impolite ... .

Fiskars to my knowledge are "hobby" axes ... .

Gränsfors are lethal wood chopping weapons - their
price difference in Sweden if shopped clever is small
- but their difference in performance vast ... .

Gränsfors are individually blacksmith made by the
way - despite their not so much heavier price tag ... .

Edit: If you buy Fiskars in US it is most likely a PR
coup based on unclear but useful in PR advantages
with Scandinavian origin etc - they are at most aver-
age in performance though - there have been wood
shopping axe polls i the Swedish version of this forum
and I do not think I saw a simple metioning of Fiskars
whatsoever - and rightly so - just look at them by they
way and you realize that it is something that you can
get for free if bying 5 Big Mac menues :) .

Good luck
 
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