Fix for a loose chain

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Old2stroke

Never too many toys
AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
1,551
Reaction score
2,180
Location
Ottawa, Canada
Just when I thought I had seen everything, this is a new one for me. A friend who knows nothing about chainsaws and should not be using one, showed up with a nice Homelite 47 (that's a Canadian model of the 290/340) that he had acquired and was using at his cottage. He was concerned about the chain getting loose and took it over to his neighbor to get advice on how to fix it. The neighbor, who was a mechanic but also knew nothing about chainsaws, assessed the problem and decided that the bar must be slipping if the chain was getting loose. His fix was to bond the outer guide plate to the base of the bar by spreading rubber cement between the two, then pulling the bar out by hand until the chain was tight (didn't know there was a screw for the purpose), then tightening the bar nuts until they were about to strip. He finished off by putting a dab of yellow paint on the bar nuts/studs so he could tell if the nuts were getting loose again. It gets worse. He used so much cement that it got squished into the oil holes on the bar and completely blocked oil from getting to the chain. The "fix" made it impossible to adjust the chain again and prevented the chain form getting any lube. I may post another thread about why the saw wouldn't run and what else had been screwed up.
 
Heck, guys, a professional sawyer told me yesterday that he kept tightening his Stihl 661 chain on a 36" bar as it got loose, cut the rim sprocket in half, cut into the needle bearing, and almost reached the crank shaft with the chain's drive link tips.

But, as he said, "The saw kept cutting and cutting the big log, and I had a job to get done."
 
When mine starts slipping i take the cover off and wipe away the oil from the bar and where the cover presses on the bar. I figure the bar nuts can't hold tight enough to stop slippage with slick oil between the surfaces.
 
Heck, guys, a professional sawyer told me yesterday that he kept tightening his Stihl 661 chain on a 36" bar as it got loose, cut the rim sprocket in half, cut into the needle bearing, and almost reached the crank shaft with the chain's drive link tips.

But, as he said, "The saw kept cutting and cutting the big log, and I had a job to get done."

I'm curious why he didn't have spare parts? I always keep rims, clutch drums and springs, bearings, etc on hand.
 
Heck, guys, a professional sawyer told me yesterday that he kept tightening his Stihl 661 chain on a 36" bar as it got loose, cut the rim sprocket in half, cut into the needle bearing, and almost reached the crank shaft with the chain's drive link tips.

But, as he said, "The saw kept cutting and cutting the big log, and I had a job to get done."
Did he buy a new sprocket?
 
From what I've seen from others, new users like to run their chains tight as a rubber band to the point the saw will barely spin the chain.

Your story with the contact cement is a totally new one though lol. Will acetone break that stuff up?
 
That's funny!
Two things will keep the chain tight.
Heat and speed. Unbeknownst to him, He just may have fix it. My advice to him (from one professional to the next) I probably would have just not put oil in.:drinkingcoffee:he doesn't know what he's doing.:ices_rofl:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top