livemusic
ArboristSite Operative
A week or so ago, I started a thread about I could not start this used ms290 I bought a year ago. Thanks to help, I did get it started but it kept giving me problems. I finally thought I had it lined out.
(Using new premix fuel that comes in a can.)
Yesterday, found a pin oak tree had fallen over a country road, so, went to get some wood. I could not start it! I decided to drive 30 miles to the Stihl dealer. I told the mechanic that I wondered about the air cleaner because it does not look 'good.' (I didn't know that even a new one has a bit of a dirty look to it.) Anyway, he took the air cleaner off, left it off, and the saw started right up. He looked at my old filter and said it was damp, which is not good. I asked is that fuel or condensation and he said he thought it was condensation. BTW, the store owner, when I was at checkout he came over and said hmmm... that bar is not stock... it's 20" bar. He conferred with the mechanic and clarified that once started, it ran well and all was well with the chain/bar. So, the owner told me that the guy I bought it from had replaced the stock bar/chain with a longer bar that the saw is not designed for, but that at least, he did put the right chain on it and changed the sprocket. He said at least the guy had 'done it right' but that 20" bar is non-stock. He said something along the lines of the saw will work fine just don't push it too hard and just let it cut. I left thinking my problems were over.
Back to the tree, got it started but after cutting maybe 6" deep into a log, it bogged down on me and would not rev up like it was. When I had enough after trying everything I knew, I decided to make the 30 mile drive again. I told the mechanic what was going on and I suspected a fuel problem. So, he decided to cut with it. He made several cuts, making carb adjustments as he went and I thought he was making headway but then it finally would bog down. He decided the carb was likely bad. I asked about putting in a kit and he said they prefer to just replace the carb because it's not much difference in money to me. It was $48 for the carb and $15 install fee. I thought that was okay and off I went thinking I've got it this time because after he installed the new carb, he made cut after cut and it ran like a champ.
I also bought a new chain because he said the chain seemed a bit dull and I thought I needed a spare anyway. I didn't want to wait around until he could sharpen the chain -- I just bought a new one.
I installed the chain. I got back to the tree and finally got it started (again, not easy) and it was revving great. I began to cut and it would not cut! After several attempts, I told my brother that I got the wrong chain! Something is wrong, this sucker won't cut! After a minute or so, it dawned on me... I had it on backwards, lol. I fixed that and it cut like a champ.
After cutting maybe 5 minutes, it went dead. And would not start no matter what I did. I let it cool off maybe 10 minutes and got it going again. Same thing happened. This same routine happened 3 times and I got frustrated and since I had enough wood from these attempts to load the truck, I gave it up. A new air cleaner, a new carb and a new chain and it still won't run right.
I told my other brother about this and he said 'it's your coil.' This was also mentioned by someone on my other thread when I was having trouble getting it started, I think that is when it was. I also read several articles/threads from a google search just now and some people have pointed at potential coil issues. BTW, when I was with the mechanic I mentioned that I had heard it might be a coil issue? He said he didn't think it was because he thought if it was the coil, it wouldn't start back up, it would just be shot. After reading, he might be wrong on that? It could be 'going bad' but not all the way gone?
In reading, people mention vapor lock and some other things. Anyone have an opinion? My $280 saw has now cost me that plus these repairs and it's still not right. Thanks.
P. S. I asked the mechanic about doing a muffler mod / carb adjustment and he said, nope, don't do it unless you want to ruin your saw. I have done a ton of reading on muffler mods and it seems to me, people are doing just fine making these mods to give the saw more power and now that I know I have a larger bar than stock, a muffler mod might be a good idea? (If I ever get this sucker fixed right, I am very frustrated!)
P.S.S. How can I tell what year this saw is? After all of this, I'm thinking I should have just bought a new one!
(Using new premix fuel that comes in a can.)
Yesterday, found a pin oak tree had fallen over a country road, so, went to get some wood. I could not start it! I decided to drive 30 miles to the Stihl dealer. I told the mechanic that I wondered about the air cleaner because it does not look 'good.' (I didn't know that even a new one has a bit of a dirty look to it.) Anyway, he took the air cleaner off, left it off, and the saw started right up. He looked at my old filter and said it was damp, which is not good. I asked is that fuel or condensation and he said he thought it was condensation. BTW, the store owner, when I was at checkout he came over and said hmmm... that bar is not stock... it's 20" bar. He conferred with the mechanic and clarified that once started, it ran well and all was well with the chain/bar. So, the owner told me that the guy I bought it from had replaced the stock bar/chain with a longer bar that the saw is not designed for, but that at least, he did put the right chain on it and changed the sprocket. He said at least the guy had 'done it right' but that 20" bar is non-stock. He said something along the lines of the saw will work fine just don't push it too hard and just let it cut. I left thinking my problems were over.
Back to the tree, got it started but after cutting maybe 6" deep into a log, it bogged down on me and would not rev up like it was. When I had enough after trying everything I knew, I decided to make the 30 mile drive again. I told the mechanic what was going on and I suspected a fuel problem. So, he decided to cut with it. He made several cuts, making carb adjustments as he went and I thought he was making headway but then it finally would bog down. He decided the carb was likely bad. I asked about putting in a kit and he said they prefer to just replace the carb because it's not much difference in money to me. It was $48 for the carb and $15 install fee. I thought that was okay and off I went thinking I've got it this time because after he installed the new carb, he made cut after cut and it ran like a champ.
I also bought a new chain because he said the chain seemed a bit dull and I thought I needed a spare anyway. I didn't want to wait around until he could sharpen the chain -- I just bought a new one.
I installed the chain. I got back to the tree and finally got it started (again, not easy) and it was revving great. I began to cut and it would not cut! After several attempts, I told my brother that I got the wrong chain! Something is wrong, this sucker won't cut! After a minute or so, it dawned on me... I had it on backwards, lol. I fixed that and it cut like a champ.
After cutting maybe 5 minutes, it went dead. And would not start no matter what I did. I let it cool off maybe 10 minutes and got it going again. Same thing happened. This same routine happened 3 times and I got frustrated and since I had enough wood from these attempts to load the truck, I gave it up. A new air cleaner, a new carb and a new chain and it still won't run right.
I told my other brother about this and he said 'it's your coil.' This was also mentioned by someone on my other thread when I was having trouble getting it started, I think that is when it was. I also read several articles/threads from a google search just now and some people have pointed at potential coil issues. BTW, when I was with the mechanic I mentioned that I had heard it might be a coil issue? He said he didn't think it was because he thought if it was the coil, it wouldn't start back up, it would just be shot. After reading, he might be wrong on that? It could be 'going bad' but not all the way gone?
In reading, people mention vapor lock and some other things. Anyone have an opinion? My $280 saw has now cost me that plus these repairs and it's still not right. Thanks.
P. S. I asked the mechanic about doing a muffler mod / carb adjustment and he said, nope, don't do it unless you want to ruin your saw. I have done a ton of reading on muffler mods and it seems to me, people are doing just fine making these mods to give the saw more power and now that I know I have a larger bar than stock, a muffler mod might be a good idea? (If I ever get this sucker fixed right, I am very frustrated!)
P.S.S. How can I tell what year this saw is? After all of this, I'm thinking I should have just bought a new one!
