Fuel type?

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davefr

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Mid to high octane, no ethanol and fresh. Use a metal jug.

Or use airplane gas. Search "AVGAS" for all the fun reading.
 
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PA Plumber

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Preference...

1. 100 LL AV fuel.
Long shelf life, no ethanol, great smell with Stihl Ultra, and cool blue color.

2. 93 Octane gas station fuel.
I'm careful with this stuff. I don't keep it for more than a month. Also, I do not let it set in my saws for more than a few days.
 
sloch24

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#1 Metal is a better barrier to air then plastic
#2 Some plastics gradually dissolve and can leave behind deposits in the engine. (ex: milk jugs as fuel containers)


Well, I use plastic GAS cans... never heard of a problem with them... They seal off very well.. and I've never had to deal with a plastic can rusting.

Maybe I'm missing something, but...

Do they even sell metal cans anymore?!?
 
lawnmowertech37

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Well, I use plastic GAS cans... never heard of a problem with them... They seal off very well.. and I've never had to deal with a plastic can rusting.

Maybe I'm missing something, but...

Do they even sell metal cans anymore
?!?


i dont think they do at least i dont see any in my area in the stores i know Oregon does not sell metal cans they do the plastic cans and they just upgraded to new style of cans with the shut off valves
 

BobL

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Metal has its problems as well. However it works water seems to condense and accumulate inside metal cans faster than inside plastic cans - also rust is not something you want in a carby - ask Lakeside.

RE: Some plastics gradually dissolve.
Yes they can, but if you use an approved container (High Density PolyEthylene - HDPE) this will not be a problem. If the mix is stale it should be dumped anyway.

I usually use two plastic containers. A bigger (2.5 gal) one for raw gas that I never use directly into the saw but decant into a smaller (1 gal) one together with some lube. I usually mill/saw weekends and the first thing I do is dump the remains of the mix in the 1 gal container into the Subaru and make up new mix every time.
 
Banshee

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I've been using the highest octane I can get at the pumps and running 40 to 1. But I've been testing AV fuel at 32 to 1 on some of my saws.
All the higher octane will get you is a cooler burn, but if your saw is stock than any mid to high octane should be fine. IMO
I think no matter what fuel/oil/ratio you use it's more important to make sure your saw is tune to run on it. IMO
 
tdi-rick

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The problem with plastics and long term fuel storage is that a number of the aromatic components leech through the plastic and escape, even with HDPE.

I've tried to contact plastic manufacturers to see what their stance is on heavy wall HDPE and this problem and haven't been able to get a response, so I've gone back to steel drums for my saw fuel.

Short term/high turnover shouldn't be a problem with a certified HDPE fuel container.
 
stihl86

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The CARB fuel cans are coated for no permeation. Only problem with them is they only vent when you open them (or blow the top off). Stihl recommends 89 octane. Be safe, use mix oil with stabilizer already in it (Stihl). Then run dry after 90 days. Fresh is best by far.
 
psych038

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i dont know about 2 strokes or stock saws but i race "stock" type class 4x4 trucks. alot of guys think there is a hp gain in using race fuel in a stock motor, but it will really hurt a lower compression motor. (burns to slow) they think race fuel is like some kind of rocket fuel i guess.
octane numbers are the fuels resistance to detonation ( pre ignition). so if you dont need the high octane why pay for it???
i run a 10.8-1 CR, 550 horse, mopar 446, with 37 degrees of timing and locked dist., on pump 93 from amoco. no problems.
 
abohac

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I was told by the dealer that sold me my saws (Husky and J-red) to use premium Sunoco or Marathon. In our area he has had several saws where guys bought Walmart or Meijers gas and seized their saws up (using good oil). Not not sure there is anything to it but for a few cents more I'm taking his advice.
 

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