Full/Half wrap define please

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Marky Mark

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Lamebert and I were discussing the full wrap handle bar. Us easterners never need one and westernerns wouldn't use a saw without one. What classifies a full wrap, does it go under the botton of the saw or is it the added handle on the chain side. Thus the handle on my newer 385 I would call a half wrap and when it goes under the bottom of the saw would be a full wrap.
 
This is a full wrap handlebar here.
graphics%5Cusahandfull.jpg


This is a 3/4 wrap Stihl exclusive design handlebar
graphics%5Cusahand.jpg


This design allows the operator to use the saw in positions normally only seen in the PNW falling the largest of trees.

the half wrap handlebar doesnt look like the ones above, because its designed for flush cutting stumps which as one would imagine, is a little bit tricky with a wrap handlebar.
 
Mongo say:

Full wrap good for logger, bad for tree guy.

Make stump cut too high with full wrap.

This make home owner and/or stump grinder operator very angry.




Full wrap handles and full brim hard hats are a west coast thing. They always feel like they have to be different.
Bunch of tofu eating, volvo driving, latte drinking, forest burning, tax paying, tree sitting, whale saving, liberals I tell ya'.:p
 
I was told that a lot of the places in the Northeast a legal stump must not be over six inches, a full wrap handle would make this a huge pain. Often out here 12" on the uphill side is cool. Also Hardwoodcutters may use "shorter" bars on their falling saws, and they have the abilitly to "double" up on the face, and backcuts so even on a hill the cutters out east get by finewith a half wrap. I still think you eastern guys are screwy, but you can cut, and some of you build a really snortin saw.
 
My Husky 395 has a full-wrap; my first saw with such a handle. It only really costs a couple more inches in stump height...not a real big deal, but it does make it a bit less convenient to get at the bar nutz.

I wouldn't have gotten it, but did get a pretty good deal on the saw from a west coast seller.

Now and then I scour Ebay looking for a 1/2-wrap handle for it at a nice price, but so far not much luck.
 
The short screnches are superior for general use-less prone to pop off the nut and booger it up cause you (okay, I) was being careless.
 
Originally posted by netree
p_woozel... I'm not familiar with any such reg. Which isn't to say it doesn't exist; I flush all my stumps to under 4", so I guess it's never been a question I've had to ask.

Dammit Beavis, if you're gonna be an urban logger you better learn the regs.:D In Mass it is actually 12" on the uphill side of the stump on logging jobs. Some municipalities have differing regs for city trees due to liabilty issues and tripping hazards.


To stay on topic I don't particularly care for the full wrap but that is probably simply a matter of what one is used to.
 
short bars

why do you guys use short bars I use a 32 and longer depending on log size but wiyh a short bar you have to bend over to limb the tree with a 32 you can walk the tree and not bend over to limb it Also why a 066 to pull a small bar I would put my 372 up against any woods preped 066, 394 ,or any other brand in small wood so why the extra pounds
 
Netree-

What Dave is referring to is the federal contracting regulations pertaining to logging operations. On U.S. Forest Service and Bureau Of Land Management ground, the contract specs are almost always dictating stumps being at 6" or lower. This includes the area for the face cut so if you use Humboldt face cuts a lot then the bottom of the sloping portion of the face must be at 6" or lower.

Most private logging companies and mills are using the same requirements now to save wood.
 
noonne gets hollered at more than me about high stumps, (high being around 12-18) I usually yell right back, Most of the brush patches We cut in now anyway a legal stump cant be seen and more breakage happens cause of that I think, not to menmtion what about trunk flare? Those maggots at the mill might be maKING money on that 12-18" on the butt but I'm not its outside the scale cylinder, and they are cutting me in on their chips or OSB or whqattever the hell the y do with it, It aint sawn lumber.
 
You's may recall how I recently drove over my KD385, well true to form Barky send me out his 385 till I can afford to buy another.
However, I was a bit pissed that there was a superficial crack in the lid and that it had this wrap thing goin on. Geez it's hard to get good help over the net!
So anyway, I bucked off half of the full wrap for a half wrap as my stumps are so low you can drive over them with a Corvette.
Anyway, Barky's KD 385 hauls ass and is at least as fast as mine, actually faster cause mine is trolling for topsoil trout.
Gotta love it!
Thank's Barky!
John
 
Full wrap

All of my large old Macs,have full wrap handles,and one of my Stihl 048 ,also.It is actually pretty handy,when used for a take down[ danged things are heavy].
 
Hi Butch, I hear ya. I was so overexuberant about the Barky 385 that I plunge cut the woofer, so I was wondering if you could send me a couple of your speakers till I get on my feet again?
Thanks in advance Dude.
Pal,
John
 
got 4 Bose™ 901's I'd send ya GypoJohnny but soon as you see the fine wood boxes ya might flip and have ya a slice and dice flashback.......
 
Hi Netree, until lately I grooved on the Wild Thang, but since have found a Partner 5000. To complete my career, all I need to do is dump some fancy trees with a piped saw.
John
 
Hi Blacksmith, the finest speakers I ever saw were these marble ones owned by DBlabcock. He could descibe them better than I, but if memory serves me well I think they cost 250,000$ U.S. for the pair. However, DB is not only more affluent than most of us, he is also more intelligent. That's what Ed said anyway.
John
 
As KD would say: "Oh, bullsh!t". I am probably not the richest or smartest here. Mark is probably the richest and Woodsjunkie is the smartest. At any rate, no one will ever know and to quote ole Ken again: "It really doesn't matter".

As far as speakers go, those old 901's certainly had their following. When I was at school back in the 70's, several of my friends were students of Dr. Amar Bose and also worked for him assembling 901's on the side. I almost took one of his classes, but scheduling conflicts prevented my doing so. There were hacked together 901's in many dorm rooms around campus. The key to the 901, however, was the active equalizer that had to be used with them in order to flatten out the low frequency response. Without it, the speakers rolled off severely below about 80 Hz. and the complex impedance curve below about 100 Hz. had more peaks than the Rocky Mountains. Many students used the speakers without the equalizer, because Bose kept tight tabs on them. Two older audiophiles from my hometown of White Plains, NY, Ed Adler and Frank Eulau, did much of the work on the equalizer. I used to visit them frequently at Intermedia Sound Labs in NY during school breaks while they were "voicing" the speaker/equalizer combination. The Bose 1801 power amplifier was designed specifically to drive the early 901's as most receivers and amplifiers of the day lacked the low frequency grunt that it took to drive the 901's reactive load, especially with the 30-40dB preemphasis boost the equalizer provided. If I remember correctly, the 1801 and it's pro-oriented sibling, the 1800, put out 256 WRMS per channel. This was big power in it's day; especially when one considered how small the 901's were compared to other speakers that could handle this kind of power. I remember once that Frank hooked up an 1801 to one of the prototype Ohm A speakers. CD's didn't exist back then, so all we used was turntables. Apparently, the viscuous damping fluid in the cuing mechanism of a Shure SME tonearm had leaked out, and when Frank lowered the cuing arm, the stylus crashed down on the record. The 1801 happily flattened the $2000 Walsh conical drivers in both speakers. Big power is cool.

My speakers are Egglestonworks Andras and yes, they do have 1 -1/2" thick Italian Marble on the side panels. They are one of the most inert speakers ever made. They only sit about 39" high and are 18" deep, but weigh in at about 235 lb. each. Each unit has 2 Dynaudio W30 12" woofers set up in a co-driven isobaric configuation. Two Morel 6" midrange drivers with 3" voice coils are driven full range and the high frequencies are handled by the Dynaudio Esotar tweeters. Blow one of the tweeters and both channels have to be replaced as they are matched pairs. Cost for two of these approach $2000. Thank God I haven't had to replace them. Frequency response is within 5 dB from 20-22,000 Hz, anechoic, although nearfield effects can modify this characteristic significantly based on room dimensions and acoustics. Stereophile rated them "Class A".

These are driven with my 10 year old Krell MDA 500 monoblocks which have been flawless. Each amp weighs 165 lb and each has it's own dedicated 20 line direct from my main breaker box. These amps are rated at 500 WRMS into 8 Ohms, and as per original Krell standards, double their power with each successive halving of load impedance. Short duration power into 1 Ohm will exceed 4,000 WRMS, limited only by current available from the 120 VAC mains. A dead short across the speaker output terminals will thermal cycle the protection circuitry with a period of about 45 seconds. Driving the Egglestons, they produce just over 1,000 WRMS each and the speakers love it. Many would argue that the MDA's have the finest bass response and control of any amplifier ever made.

Finally, paraphrasing Al Pacino in the movie "Scarface": "I like chainsaws; only I like audio better".
 
how can you hear the saw run after listening to that concert hall power supply, also what type of music do you listen to
 
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