Gaffs for gimpy fat guy

[northmanlogging]

Right, so used to climb more when I was a lot younger. Now I'm broken and heavy...

Been finding the need to do some of my own rigging lately, hiring it out has gotten problematic, not the expense but the timing...

Anyway I've ran the cast aluminum Birminghams, and curenty have cast set of Mallory's, have a set of ancient looks to be hand forged gaffs with a homemade pad they where ok but more then a little dull...

So the problem I have is that where all the gaffs I've used before ride is right where I crushed my leg a number of years ago, or where the screws that hold me together are driven through. Not exactly fun...

What I'm looking for is something with a solid pad and super squirshy foam, that covers a large part of the inner shin. Any recommendations or something that comes in a better size for my giant legs.. the Mallory's are a little on the skinny side.

The second question is them little plates that fit on top of the gaffs for the boot to ride on are they worth the effort? This is mostly cause the foot that got crushed is also wired wrong so the muscles don't really work right, I figure the extra support might be worth it.

Thanks gents, I realize I'm trespassing a bit.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

What kind of rigging are you talking about?

 

[bigremovals]

bucket truck haha

 

[newsawtooth]

The Gecko spurs are worth the money. I can wear them with tennis shoes for hours. They can accommodate large legs as well. I'm not sure about the foot plates, never used them. If your foot is that banged up, they might be helpful if you have to spend a lot of time setting up rigging in a spar tree. Cadillac pads might be an options as well, but they don't have as much surface area as the pads on Geckos.

 

[imagineero]

I didn't find the geckos to be wearable even for short periods of time. I tried modifying mine, the thread might give you some ideas.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/modifying-geckos.233939/

I ended up giving them away. Try to borrow gaffs from people around you to try if you can, it's such a personal thing... Much more so than a harness. Different pads make a huge difference, but again it's just what works for you. I tried the footpads once by borrowing them and found then really weird but definitely more support. Just couldn't feel anything, like trying to walk in ski boots or something.

 

[northmanlogging]

What kind of rigging are you talking about?

Spars for yarding or just hanging a line in a leaner so they can be pulled over with the skidder. I don't get involved in the big chunk down "arborist" type stuff, too much work and not enough money...

bucket truck haha

Eat me...

 

[TheJollyLogger]

That's what I figured. In that case I would reccomend the plates, amd probably cadilac pads for your sitiation. I don't like how stiff they feel, but your looking at a straight up straight down scenario. I'd also reccomend a figure eight or some othee descender to rappel down after you rig, because climbing down is hatder than up. A throwball and some practice will save a lot of climbing too... Jeff

 

[BuckmasterStumpGrinding]

Get a big shot.

 

[northmanlogging]

Been thinking on the throw ball thing, been using a shackle tied to some 1/2 rope... but a true throw ball would be better.

And yeah I don't intend to mess around with hard woods much, our conifers tend to grow mostly in one direction so working my way through a maze of crotches and fatty limbs is not really on the agenda.

Any luck with buckinghams "big bucker" pads, was eyeing a set at the saw shop today... seems like the metal collar bit could be a touch longer. Adjustable spikes would be a nice change of pace, I could maybe get the height right for once, rather then on the crushed bit or on the screws... pick yer poison...

 

[northmanlogging]

That's what I figured. In that case I would reccomend the plates, amd probably cadilac pads for your sitiation. I don't like how stiff they feel, but your looking at a straight up straight down scenario. I'd also reccomend a figure eight or some othee descender to rappel down after you rig, because climbing down is hatder than up. A throwball and some practice will save a lot of climbing too... Jeff

Haven't used a decender in so long I can barely remember how they work. But its also on the list, as well as being able to tie myself off and sorts just sit in the saddle rather than trying to stand in the spikes and wait for whatever groundie to try and figure out a clove hitch or the difference between a choker and a shackle...

coming down isn't so bad for me, its the just sitting there and wiggling the pads deeper... up is a ***** but only cause I could stand to loose about 80 pounds.

 

[HuskStihl]

Jeff,
I think you should hire Northman to test the structural integrity of the trees you will be climbing again soon.

I can get pretty high into a tree with a 3/4-1" socket and twine/monofilament, but I've got long monkey arms which are good at throwing light things far

 

[BuckmasterStumpGrinding]

A big shot, throw bags and slick line is well under 200.

 

[northmanlogging]

Jeff,
I think you should hire Northman to test the structural integrity of the trees you will be climbing again soon.

I can get pretty high into a tree with a 3/4-1" socket and twine/monofilament, but I've got long monkey arms which are good at throwing light things far

No I think he should do all the testing himself thankyou, I'd like to stay out of ambulances for the foreseea... ever... got enough spare parts.

 

[IcePick]

Don't waste your money with geckos or fancy caddy pad just get some kleins. Also, why come in here with such a holier than thou attitude? Based on your original post, according to the content and description of it anyway, I don't think big removals was giving you ****, but you assume he should already know who you are and what you do. Anyway, I would look into kleins. They are not heavy and bulky, the angles of the gaff prevent a heavy climber from going in to deep and spending too much energy getting them out.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Ummh, not sure who you're referring to, but I know exactly who he is and what he does, and wish I could do it half as well.

 

[IcePick]

Nevermind.

 

[pdqdl]

Been thinking on the throw ball thing, been using a shackle tied to some 1/2 rope... but a true throw ball would be better.
...

If you haven't tried a real throw ball and some slick line to tie it to, you have no idea how much harder you are working than you need to. Don't underestimate how much better the slick line is than any chunk of twine or rope. Add a big shot and you will be amazed how seldom you need to climb a tree to set a rope. I haven't climbed a tree to set a rope since I got set up with those same tools. About the only thing that would make me climb to set a rope would be a simple spar without any forks or stubs to hold the rope up.

I don't get many conifers, but they are usually easier for me to set a line in than the deciduous trees. Shoot for the center of the tree; if you make it more than 1/2 way through, you should be good to go.

Short story: earlier this week, we did a cheap trimming of a dead oak branch over the front yard light.
step 1. set a rope for the climber to make the cut close to the trunk. Done fast enough that he could not possibly climbed as high to the tie-in as quickly. Rope was set before he got all his gear on.
step 2. Set a rope well above the branch tip to be controlled. 3 minutes with a throwball, quite impractical by climbing.
Step 3. Set a running bowline over the tip of the branch being controlled...another 3 minutes.

By now, the climber is in position to make his cut, he has set his own lowering rope for the butt of the branch, and we cut it down with no risk at all.

On spurs:
I really like my Geckos, and I have some of the same "broken and heavy" problems, too. If your spurs are not adjustable in length, it almost guarantees that any brand of adjustable spurs with extra padding will be a big improvement. Contrary to advise given above, Gecko spurs stick in the tree much less than any other brand I have used. And yes, I have climbed on Kleins, too. They are ok, I just prefer the Geckos.

 

[Griff93]

From the spike I've used I prefer aluminum Bashlins with big buck pads. They just fit me the best. I have several sets of Buckingham and Klien spikes. I have not spent much time in Gecko's as I don't own any but they are nice in the short time I've played with them. If I was climbing everyday, all day long I guess I'd consider spending the money on them. I spend more time on rope than spikes. I'm not much overweight but I'm probably heavier than the average climber at 200 lbs. For me buying good boots with steel shanks in them made more difference than which spikes to use. I've had a ligament tear in my right ankle so I'm kinda gimpy as well.

Buying a big shot is some of the best money I have spend on tree gear. It has saved hours of labor and risk.

 

[IcePick]

As a climber who specializes in large and or technical removals, ive clocked thousands of hours on spikes. I didn't say the geckos were not good spikes, they certainly are. Ive used just about every brand there is. To me, based on price, you could get a set of kleins and a throwball/throwline kit for the price of a set of geckos. Might just be personal preference, but the performance of the two is not that much different to justify the extra cost is all.

 

[pdqdl]

Yep. They are pricey. I think they are worth it; other might not.

The shape of a Klein gaff is long and pointy:

A gecko has a similar shape, but has an angled facet that is very sharp, but has a different angle, so that it widens quickly so that it supports the climber on the tree without digging in as far. I believe that they pull out easier than any other I have tried.

Gecko is rather progressive, and offer several different styles of gaff. Here is their European gaff, which is about 3/4" shorter than the American gaff pictured above. I like them best, because they reduce the amount of side-load on my ankles and shins:

Kleins are actually pretty similar, but Bashlin and others are not:

Bashlin, very pointy. Sink deep into the wood, with much resistance to extract:

Stein, curved lower surface rather than a flat facet:

Buckingham is long and pointy too: