gas and oil

[indiansprings]

It's almost impossible to find non-blended (10% ethanol) fuel around here. I believe the Ultra has added fuel stabilizers, I've had string trimmers set for 6 months with Ultra blended fuel and have them fire right up, I never had a issue with the orange bottle dino oil, but am absolutely sold on the benefits of synthetic, less carbon,cleaner burning, and great shelf life. With the price of pro saws and the amount of use ours get I look at the price difference cheap insurance with the gas we have available.

 

[R/C Pilot]

Reading in the STIHL catalog about oils, it says that Stihl High Performance 2-Cycle Engine Oil is especially suitable for professional chain saws. It works for me and has for many years. I mix at 40 to 1 and have never had any problems.

 

[zogger]

OK, that’s an actual observed tangible and specific reason to use synthetic oil, sort’a “special purpose” though. In these types of threads I’ve often said I believed there were “special purpose” applications where synthetic oils offered certain advantages… although I was usually referring to crankcase oils, transmission oils, hydraulics and such.

So I acquire a used two-cycle that’s been run too rich, or with too much oil and all carbon/gummed up, and run a “first” container of synthetic pre-mix through it to clean it up… why shouldn’t I switch back to regular HP that I’ve never had any issues with, what’s my advantage to continue using synthetic after that?

And I’m not trying to tell anyone what to use for oil… A guy has to do what he’s comfortable with, after all, I do. I just wanna’ know what, if anything, I’m actually gaining for the extra buck (not advertizing claims, actual experience). Again, why should I fix what ain’t broke?

--I just got sold on synthetic oil years ago when working on air cooled VWs. Most definitely runj better, better idle, run cooler, sort of critical down here with summer driving.

Cost difference with the syn two stroke mix over dino is negligible, plus most have the built in fuel stabilizer as well. It's just cleaner burning and provides more engine protection. But, not to say conventional oils can't work fine either, even those have gotten a lot better since the olden daze. I remember when every two stroke you ran had clouds of smoke associated with it. Chemistry got better since then, all the oil companies offer a synthetic, the equipment manufacturers all recommend synthetic (the guys who have to eat warranty claims), so, dunno.. cant be all hype, must be something to it. If what you have works for you, that's cool, I ain't making any money off of selling little jugs of oil....

 

[mikey517]

AS members with far more knowledge and experience than I recommend synthetic oil, and their reasons make sense. As to the "extra" cost - I'm using the Poulan Synthetic from Wallyworld at 40:1...19.6 oz for about $5.50. Can't complain about that price. Do a search here and you'll find several members who have researched that oil and have used it regularly with good results.

So far so good with my stuff ( 2 Husky saws, Husky leaf blower & Echo string trimmer), and they all got used a lot this summer.

**EDIT** Start here

 

[Lakeside53]

Oh, I know there was such people… growing up I remember older relatives with that attitude. But I’ll take the other side on that one and say they were dead wrong. Before “specific 2 stroke oil” small engine RPM was limited to 5000, maybe 6000 tops… within a few short years after “specific 2 stroke oil” engine performance had more than doubled. ...

But.... what has happend in the last decade of EPA is that the saws run leaner/hotter than ever, with worse gas. The margin for error has certainly been reduced. In saws I run synthetic to get a little back. I run it in my 4 mix because it will become a POS without it!

 

[Fedaburger]

Poulan synthetic with that price can't be ignored that's for sure. +1

 

[Whitespider]

But.... what has happend in the last decade of EPA is that the saws run leaner/hotter than ever, with worse gas. The margin for error has certainly been reduced. In saws I run synthetic to get a little back.

Get what back? What does synthetic get back for you?

 

[Whitespider]

But.... what has happend in the last decade of EPA is that the saws run leaner/hotter than ever, with worse gas. The margin for error has certainly been reduced. In saws I run synthetic to get a little back.

Get what back? What specifically does synthetic get back for you?
Or is it just faith (which is OK, nothin' wrong with faith)?

 

[hoeyrd2110]

Any good synthetic will be fine. I prefer 32.1 but that's just me. Apparently the amsoil from what I heard isn't wat it used to be. Still great oil though I mean we're talking saws here not shifter karts. I like 3.5oz of pennzoil and .5oz of elf per gallon. Reason being is the elf stuff is $$$ and my supplier at work doesn't carry it anymore or I'd run it by itself. I can tell you that little bit of elf makes 1000rpm difference in the cut on my 350 just tested it today plus it smells wonderful:hmm3grin2orange:

Bring the heat!

 

[Arbonaut]

Get what back? What does synthetic get back for you?

The stuff in the orange bottle don't meet the spec on the new Stihls, Scooby. Some one said it cleans out saw- they are right too. Dirt particles can't adhere to ester. Low ash and low smoke. Commercial grade users can justify it merely because of less smoke in town. My older saws do run snappier on ultra. I use Lucas @ $8.50/quart in those old saws, though. It is synthetic blend.

 

[Fedaburger]

Get what back? What specifically does synthetic get back for you?
Or is it just faith (which is OK, nothin' wrong with faith)?

Every single time I mix some synthetic oil in a gallon of gas. I get the urge to cut sh@@ up!!

 

[hoeyrd2110]

Every single time I mix some synthetic oil in a gallon of gas. I get the urge to cut sh@@ up!!

And after you start the cutting you realize there is something special about the scent of syn oil that's just wonderful. It's a double edged addiction the machines and the smell of them afterwards! I'm gonna market 2 stroke patches so there's no withdraw if one has no time to get into some wood

 

[Lakeside53]

Get what back? What specifically does synthetic get back for you?
Or is it just faith (which is OK, nothin' wrong with faith)?

Faith that I'm getting back or widening the closing safety margin! I've seen inside an ungodly amount of dead and dying engines. A lot less death on synthetic oil.

 

[Andyshine77]

Get what back? What specifically does synthetic get back for you?
Or is it just faith (which is OK, nothin' wrong with faith)?

You and argumentative hard headed people like yourself caused Andy to skip town for a few years and you couldn't blame him...

Andy gave his reasons for running syn oil and that is quite clear to anyone listening. As someone that runs ported saw and ports them from time to time, the benefits of using syn oil are quite clear. Synthetic oils burn cleaner, they have better shear strength and thermal stability. Good ester oils are also polar, so the oil actually clings to and penetrates metal to a point. I've taken engines apart that were ran on non syn oil, and they were nasty inside, the opposite can be said for engines that were ran on nothing but modern syn oils, they all looked almost new. A big one for me is the fact syn oils also produce less smell and smoke.

Run what you like and move on.

 

[Fedaburger]

Yeah Andy what you said +1. Bout time.






By the way Amsoil sucks!!!!!

 

[Andyshine77]

Yeah Andy what you said +1. Bout time.






By the way Amsoil sucks!!!!!

I know you're just having fun, but to be clear on the matter. Amsoil most certainly doesn't suck when used properly. The 100:1 is a complete joke, and I've seen the results of 100:1 first hand and they were not good.

 

[hoeyrd2110]

What would tempt anyone to run 100:1...I mean 50:1 yeah but half the oil of that! Jez that's like a customer told me walmart was selling mix and its 2oz a gallon on the bottle and it was great stuff...job security

To be honest I think the briggs oil is outstanding also its the evolution of the lawnboy ashless. The tree guys I service run the briggs or tanaka oil. While the landscapers usually run echo powerblend. No complaints on any of those 3. Tanaka oil runs really clean engines look freshly machined after running that stuff

 

[Fedaburger]

I know Andy I might give it a try one of these days. :msp_rolleyes:
I've always had a hunch knowing that 100:1 was kind of shady before learning what i have learned from you guys at AS. That is one nasty lookin piston. I'm curious if Amsoil took care of that with the guarantee our oil won't blow your engine hype?

 

[hoeyrd2110]

I know Andy I might give it a try one of these days. :msp_rolleyes:
I've always had a hunch knowing that 100:1 was kind of shady before learning what i have learned from you guys at AS. That is one nasty lookin piston. I'm curious if Amsoil took care of that with the guarantee our oil won't blow your engine hype?

I wonder how long and ridiculous that warranty process is. And how can you prove it was their oil. There has to be lots oh loop holes for them to get out of it.

 

[lone wolf]

I know you're just having fun, but to be clear on the matter. Amsoil most certainly doesn't suck when used properly. The 100:1 is a complete joke, and I've seen the results of 100:1 first hand and they were not good.

Now run another one at 100 to one using petroleum oil do a comparison and we will know for a fact which type holds up to heat and friction better.