Got my Ripsaw

[BIG JAKE]

Ripsaw came yesterday! Saw looks good with no shipping damage and it came with three sharp bands although the one on the saw might need a touch up. I didn't have time to tinker but everything looks straight and serviceable. All bearings appear good. Saw came with the dimension arm and guide but no guide finger or hardware to mount to the saw. Previous owner shipped it with the band tensioned. I was going to take the tension off but not clear which adjustment is band tensioner-
I printed out manuals Al posted last nite(thanks Al)-manuals seem pretty vague and few diagrams. I've read many threads but may need help from you guys to tweak this thing in.
Hopefully I can spend some more time on it today and tinker!

 

[BobL]

And where are the pics?????opcorn:

 

[AndyR]

There's really not a whole lot to it. Once you've used it a few times you'll know the machine inside out. (Using it takes a little practice-you'll want that guide finger). The tension adjustment is the largest bolt on the saw (I think). It has a turnbuckle and a rod that goes through the top square bar. You'll be able to pick up the items you mentioned pretty easily from the Ripsaw people. I also bought a few extra parts-knobs, blade guide bearings etc. that are easy to lose or break. My used Ripsaw came with all of this stuff in a plastic tacklebox. I keep all of the tools etc in there. Makes it handy-grab n' go.

Good luck, have fun and eat a good breakfast
Andy

 

[BIG JAKE]

And where are the pics?????opcorn:

I took 5 pics and the two of the saw overal disappeared of the memory card?:monkey: I have a couple of a tensioner and the carbide guides. I'll take some pics today.

 

[BIG JAKE]

There's really not a whole lot to it. Once you've used it a few times you'll know the machine inside out. (Using it takes a little practice-you'll want that guide finger). The tension adjustment is the largest bolt on the saw (I think). It has a turnbuckle and a rod that goes through the top square bar. You'll be able to pick up the items you mentioned pretty easily from the Ripsaw people. I also bought a few extra parts-knobs, blade guide bearings etc. that are easy to lose or break. My used Ripsaw came with all of this stuff in a plastic tacklebox. I keep all of the tools etc in there. Makes it handy-grab n' go.

Good luck, have fun and eat a good breakfast
Andy

Breakfast sounds good I get the implication though. I was going to call Ripsaw today and order some odds and ends like diamond stones and hardware. Yeah some of the knobs have seen better days. Have lost guide bearings before? Maybe I should go thru and blue loctite the thing. Anyway, I was reading Parris' thread when he got his I figure I'll to just dive in and go from there

 

[woodshop]

Congrats on the Ripsaw Jake... I've got a little experience with one so ask away if you run into questions. Oh... it's not a good idea to keep the thing under tension, I always back it off 4 full turns when putting it away. That way I tension it 4 turns and it's ready to go.

 

[AndyR]

Have lost guide bearings before?

Haven't lost any, but my original ones have worn out. I just wanted to keep any extra parts in stock so I won't be shut down if I lose something or a part breaks. Like many of us here I have limited time for this hobby.

Let us know how it works out.

 

[BIG JAKE]

Congrats on the Ripsaw Jake... I've got a little experience with one so ask away if you run into questions. Oh... it's not a good idea to keep the thing under tension, I always back it off 4 full turns when putting it away. That way I tension it 4 turns and it's ready to go.

Woodshop-you know you're to blame for my infatuation with the Ripsaw. My wife hates you. Just kidding:hmm3grin2orange: (At least the wife part). Seriously I've been thinking many years how it's a shame I've been burning up some of the logs I've used for firewood. Each one is like a book that's never been read. Anyway here's some pics(here you go Bob-sorry for delay):

 

[BIG JAKE]

I didn't get to tinker with the saw today as I am working on this:

 

[BIG JAKE]

Note there is some distortion in the pics-I have an ancient digital camera but it's good enough for a construction camera. Just know that my walls/ripsaw aren't bent or curved, just a old camera.

 

[Al Weber]

You'll get it set up in no time. The large nut (3/4") on the top tube is the tension device. As Woodshop says, it should be detensioned when not in use. Fine tuning the tension is also something learned by trial and error. Too loose and it wanders, too tight and you break blades quickly. Lots of test cuts are recommended.

If you are ordering parts, I recommend you buy some extra blade bearings. The one on the idler side fails frequently. I shoot them with WÎ40 every time I open the covers to change blades. That extends their life. You will also likely need some knobs for both the cover plates and the beam mounting clamps if you buy them. Beware-RipSaw changed thread sizes some years ago and the fine thread ones are no longer available. You will need to get a tap to rethread the beam mounting units if you have an older unit. When you talk to RipSaw, have the serial number which is stamped on the frame so they can tell you which one you have.

I'd get another set of blades also. While they last quite awhile with resharpening, I went through a lot of them when I first got started due to the learning curve. I buy diamond grinders from Lee Valley for about 20% of what RipSaw gets. Also, many hardware stores carry knobs that will work and they can be a bit cheaper.

You'll get the hang of it and since Woodshop has offered his assistance, you can get expert help from him. He is a bit modest in his self description.

I've built a wooden carry box for all the parts. It helps me keep everything somewhat organized and minimizes my trips back to shop.

 

[BobL]

Thanks for posting Jake, can't wait to see the product.

 

[BIG JAKE]

Al I like the box idea also woodshop in his milling with ripsaw portrayal on the Ripsaw website. I really have a lot to do to get ready to mill I still have no beams-good to know on the guide bar bolts I think fine thread with no seize lube on them may last longer but the fact that they discontinued has me wondering. I may lose the plastic knobs in favor of a barrel nut with metal handle welded on the end of it say 1/4" round bar. On the guide bar nuts do they fail periodically from repeated depth adjustments? I may modify those also in favor of a thicker nut(more threads to bare) if there is adequate clearance. Either that or I'll just order 4 nuts and'll have 2 spares. I do have a question on the carbide blade guides. One set is accessible from the outside and the others are facing away from the outside looks like you'd have to pull the cover to mess with those. Any reason the couldn't be turned around for easy access without pulling a cover off?

 

[BIG JAKE]

By the way Al thanks for the tips. On the sharpening stones they seem a little pricey from Ripsaw but I'll need those. I'll buy some things from them like blades and parts to help support them. On the blade bearings we have a really good bearing shop in town and you can even upgrade for more durability/quality. I may pick up a pair to have on hand are drive & idler guide bearings the same?
Oh by the way I converted my 028 to rim sprocket years ago but did save the 7 tooth spur. Was looking at that I don't believe it will work for this app as it has a nylon gear on the face of it. I bet the PN they listed doesn't have the nylon on it. In anycase they guy had an 039 and I bought that too it has a brand new bar but at least this way I'll have two saws available to drive the mill, plus the 066/alaskan. I'm hoping to mill in a week or two when things settle down. I have a 10 to 12" cherry log waiting but I'll learn on some pine first I don't want to butcher it learning.

 

[AndyR]

I do have a question on the carbide blade guides. One set is accessible from the outside and the others are facing away from the outside looks like you'd have to pull the cover to mess with those. Any reason the couldn't be turned around for easy access without pulling a cover off?

You shouldn't need to mess with those too much. Make sure they're set correctly (clearance) and check them every now and then. They don't wear much at all as I understand (someone correct me if I'm wrong here...)
You'll probably find you need to change the blade (remove cover) WAY more often than you'll need to mess with those carbide guides.

Your pics look pretty good. Kitchen is going to be nice. What size saw are you going to run on the ripsaw?

I'm itching to mill some some stuff with the more bearable weather on the way.

 

[Al Weber]

The carbide blade guides do not need any regular adjustment in my experience. They seem not to wear and I only took them out once to look at them and reset them when I thought I had a problem (didn't). My experience with the knobs is that there is a knurled brass insert set into the plastic knob. Over time and with repeated tightening (admittedly with pliers on occasion), the plastic breaks away and you either have to use a pliers on the brass insert or buy another knob. So I end up buying a few extra knobs just for convenience.

I doubt whether the nylon is going to work but someone more knowledgable than I will probably answer that better.

I use an 036 on the RipSaw but I think the 028 would do fine and the bigger saws could be used for a CSM to make cants like Woodshop does.

You are fortunate to have bearing shops and so on. Here in my rural area of NH the nearest place is some 50 miles away and so spares are a necessity.

 

[BIG JAKE]

You shouldn't need to mess with those too much. Make sure they're set correctly (clearance) and check them every now and then. They don't wear much at all as I understand (someone correct me if I'm wrong here...)
You'll probably find you need to change the blade (remove cover) WAY more often than you'll need to mess with those carbide guides.

Your pics look pretty good. Kitchen is going to be nice. What size saw are you going to run on the ripsaw?

I'm itching to mill some some stuff with the more bearable weather on the way.

I'll try the 028 and 039 both see which one seems better. I don't know what the weight difference maybe a pound or three. The guy was running the 039 on it. The kitchen is what's holding me up right now I just want to finish that so I can have my life back. I got some unistrut nuts today I'm going to see how those might work for the guide depth bar adjuster nuts-may take a little crafting or maybe won't work at all. I'll take a break here and there and wander into the shop so can tinker with the mill a little.

 

[BIG JAKE]

The carbide blade guides do not need any regular adjustment in my experience. They seem not to wear and I only took them out once to look at them and reset them when I thought I had a problem (didn't). My experience with the knobs is that there is a knurled brass insert set into the plastic knob. Over time and with repeated tightening (admittedly with pliers on occasion), the plastic breaks away and you either have to use a pliers on the brass insert or buy another knob. So I end up buying a few extra knobs just for convenience.

I doubt whether the nylon is going to work but someone more knowledgable than I will probably answer that better.

I use an 036 on the RipSaw but I think the 028 would do fine and the bigger saws could be used for a CSM to make cants like Woodshop does.

You are fortunate to have bearing shops and so on. Here in my rural area of NH the nearest place is some 50 miles away and so spares are a necessity.

Yeah that bearing shop has come in handy and it's nice to throw a bearing down on the table and they sell me what I need. Anything with a bearing they usually have it (jointer, sander, motorcycle axle. On occasion I'll stump them and they have to order but still I get the right part.
New Hampshire is a beautiful state Al. I think I'd consider trading convenience for rural environment if I could make a living doing so. Lot's of wood to mill too!

 

[woodshop]

You shouldn't need to mess with those too much. Make sure they're set correctly (clearance) and check them every now and then. They don't wear much at all as I understand (someone correct me if I'm wrong here...)
You'll probably find you need to change the blade (remove cover) WAY more often than you'll need to mess with those carbide guides...

In all the years using my Ripsaw, I've only reset those carbide guides once, and not sure they really needed it then even. Basically, set them and forget them. As was said, squirt some WD-40 on those bearings the blade rides against to clean them out and get them moving free again, the one farthest from the powerhead often seizes up because it gets all the debris from the blade. I always carry a few spares. I get mine from MSC but they are a standard bearing and most good hardware places have them. If one does seize, replace it in the field (takes 20 seconds) and back in shop soak it in WD-40 and work it back and forth, in most cases you can free it to use again. The bearing doesn't wear, but even though it is sealed, it just get full of super fine sawdust and dirt being right next to the blade there. The only time it is toast is if you don't check it or change it when it seizes, and then since it doesn't turn, the blade riding against it turns it blue and burns it up. I also painted the ends of those black knobs bright orange because when you lose one in the leaves/bark/sawdust, the dark black is impossible to see, it becomes a dark twig or chunk of wood.

 

[BIG JAKE]

In all the years using my Ripsaw, I've only reset those carbide guides once, and not sure they really needed it then even. Basically, set them and forget them. As was said, squirt some WD-40 on those bearings the blade rides against to clean them out and get them moving free again, the one farthest from the powerhead often seizes up because it gets all the debris from the blade. I always carry a few spares. I get mine from MSC but they are a standard bearing and most good hardware places have them. If one does seize, replace it in the field (takes 20 seconds) and back in shop soak it in WD-40 and work it back and forth, in most cases you can free it to use again. The bearing doesn't wear, but even though it is sealed, it just get full of super fine sawdust and dirt being right next to the blade there. The only time it is toast is if you don't check it or change it when it seizes, and then since it doesn't turn, the blade riding against it turns it blue and burns it up. I also painted the ends of those black knobs bright orange because when you lose one in the leaves/bark/sawdust, the dark black is impossible to see, it becomes a dark twig or chunk of wood.

Good tips WS-I've got some orange paint. I saw the painted knobs on a pic from one of your other post but did not occur to me the reason they were orange. Thanks for saving me the trouble in advance. Good tip on the bearings too. I backed off the tension on the band for now. Can you tell me where the white tension line is located I don't see that? Another question that concerns me is there a good way to assure the chainsaw oiler is functioning? Be a nice thing to keep tabs on and what bar oil do you like for this application?