Got my Ripsaw

[OhioGregg]

Jake,
Thats a cool, interesting looking contraption there! I don't know a thing about them, but looks like it would do great work. Only been on these forums since about August, but learning new stuff all the time!

Gregg

 

[BIG JAKE]

Jake,
Thats a cool, interesting looking contraption there! I don't know a thing about them, but looks like it would do great work. Only been on these forums since about August, but learning new stuff all the time!

Gregg

Gregg I haven't used the thing yet, but I got it for the portability as I cut in rugged terrain at times so moving logs is sometimes not an option. I'll be posting soon

 

[woodshop]

Can you tell me where the white tension line is located I don't see that? Another question that concerns me is there a good way to assure the chainsaw oiler is functioning? Be a nice thing to keep tabs on and what bar oil do you like for this application?

That white tension line should be right there on the Ripsaw where that metal indicator bar is, up on top. I don't go by that exclusively though, I tighten it up by feel, run down the cant, and can tell it I have it to loose, it will wander a bit, crank another turn and try again. Once you have the right tension, ALWAYS untension it same number of turns, I do 4, and then when tensioning it, turn 4 turns and you're back in business. Bar oil, I use same as what goes in my saws, and I never use the winter stuff, to thin for me. You can tell it is working by the oil running out from the saw near where the powerhead mates, it runs out and onto that pinion gear, and then out the bottom. I turn my oiler down as far as it gets, and it still puts out to much for the Ripsaw. Just get used to oil dripping out the bottom as you go down the log.

 

[BIG JAKE]

saw half clean anyway

That white tension line should be right there on the Ripsaw where that metal indicator bar is, up on top. I don't go by that exclusively though, I tighten it up by feel, run down the cant, and can tell it I have it to loose, it will wander a bit, crank another turn and try again. Once you have the right tension, ALWAYS untension it same number of turns, I do 4, and then when tensioning it, turn 4 turns and you're back in business. Bar oil, I use same as what goes in my saws, and I never use the winter stuff, to thin for me. You can tell it is working by the oil running out from the saw near where the powerhead mates, it runs out and onto that pinion gear, and then out the bottom. I turn my oiler down as far as it gets, and it still puts out to much for the Ripsaw. Just get used to oil dripping out the bottom as you go down the log.

While I was waiting on granite guys to arrive today I pulled out the Ripsaw. I cleaned most of it, and systematically went thru it. I didn't have time to clean right side outer as seen in final pic. I pulled all the screws, cleaned, and reinstalled with blue loctite one at a time. All the bearings looked good and both guide bearings look brand new as did the internal drive gears. Then I painted the knobs-forgot to pull the right side knobs but 3 coats and they came out good. I will strip the paint and repaint the upper blade shield which has some minor rust also. That's all I had time for today.

On the blade tension seems like a better way to go anyway/trial and error. I have some junk logs to practice on. First I need to finish the clean/paint I know it'll get dirty again but I want to familiarize/baseline the saw first and get that all ready. Decided to order a rail package from Ripsaw after I found o
ut the 24 ft 1 1/2"X6"X24' is 365.00 bucks. I'll add rails later for long beams if I need to. Then I won't have to re-invent a system. Still need an 028 spur before I can mount the saw, and then fit the guide bar.

 

[BIG JAKE]

1921 farm jack(handyman jack)

I found out you can't turn around the tungsten blade guides on the drive side as the panel mount is a blind hole and you can't mount the panel knob.

Here is a pick of my 1921 handyman jack-early version of what is now renamed Hi-lift. The company is still run by the same american family and made in U.S. I'll use it to lift logs but I need to make a new handle for it and I have some 5/4 white oak I think will work for that. The only thing I don't like about the jack is the base it small footprint and not reinforced well. The later jack bases are much better. I'll make an improved base with a wider footprint and jaws that fit over the lift tongue similar to bob's.

 

[BIG JAKE]

First Ripsaw milling pics!

Finally got to mill a little yesterday. Saw worked great-man is that thing the cat's meow . I was running the the 039 way more than enough power for this 8"X16" pine beam. I'm going to bolt up the 028 today and try that I'm thinking that will be plenty for softwoods. 066 for alaskan, and I'm gonna try the 011 on my Lewis Winch to see how it does. I'm only going to use it to pull short(10 ft) log sections on the trailer or up slopes I can't mill on. I never use the 011 I hope it works, otherwise the 039 but rather use that saw for blocking.
I need to sharpen one of the bands that came with the saw today and see how that works out. So now I need to build some heavy saw horses and in general get everything organized into a nice package so I can hit the hills with everything I need. More work with less fiddlin'. Still need to weld up some lift jaws similar to Bob's for my Hi-lift jack also, but getting close!
I only had time to slice a few boards. I'll finish today and post the results.