Great deal on a Craftsman Riding Mower

[user 122190]

The Craftsman is gone. $900 was the final selling price. Guy bought it for his dad who has polio. The father had the exact same machine for more then 20 years, and it seized up on him 4 days ago. This will be a nice replacement for him, as he uses it to get around, as walking is difficult for the guy. I'm happy it is going to someone that really needs it.

Now the John Deere has to get fixed so I can keep the weeds under control, while I find a wreak to purchase and replace this Craftsman. The John Deere has to be sold. It will be worth more then I need for my yard maintenance.

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Buyer called me the other day. Wanted to know if I wanted his dad's old mower. I had told him how to check for a seized engine, and he got out a wrench and was able to turn it over part ways. Then he hit a solid obstruction and it would not budge at all. A free fixer-upper was tempting, but it sounds like it is seriously damaged, and maybe even more so now that he turned it over by hand. I passed on it. I've got enough to deal with in fixing the John Deere.

 

[Okie]

Just a hint you might try to check cylinder balance. (before you give up and throw in the towel at Briggs))
Slide the spark plug boot back on both spark plugs so as you can ground the spark plug tips while the Briggs Intek is running and have your IR ready.
Ground each individual cylinder at first while the machine is idling and check the rpm drop by ear. The cylinder that drops the rpms most is the stronger cylinder. Ground the left spark plug tip and let it run on just the right cylinder while monitoring the temp then do the opposite. I suspect the cylinder that is the hottest is the lean cylinder, rich on air and lean on gas. Do not pull the spark plug wire off to kill the cylinder, ground the tip.
Pulling the wire can ruin a electronic magneto.

I'm not saying you have a bad carb, but them dual throat Nikki's, one throat is for each cylinder.
I was given a Briggs Intek recently that was scrapped because no one could get it to run correctly.

When I got to checking the left cylinder was dead, good compression and spark.
I swapped the carb with a old carb and the problem swapped, right cylinder dead, left ok???????????(that told me that both carbs were bad and I was lucky they were opposite side bad) When I went to cleaning the carbs I found both had bad o-rings and could not take two and make one because they were built different at the H jet area. A OEM Nikki was priced around $200 so that was a no go and a OEM complete kit going by the number stamped on the carb casting was expensive.
I bought a $15 China clone carb, installed and got both cylinders running but the carb itself was erratic idling. I could have sent it back to Amazon prime with free shipping but decided to carefully peek inside first.
Removed the clone carb and when I removed the bowl it looked same as one of the other bad Nikki's, so I used the $15 china clone carb as a kit for one of the bad carbs transferring the completed H jet emulsion tube and it's jets and gaskets to the bad carb and got a good run.

Also I install paper gaskets (that I make myself) on the plastic intake manifold where it bolts to the head. I do not trust re-using the old rubber gaskets for a good seal. I just leave the old rubber seals in place on the intake manifold but they can be discarded. I think maybe some Nikki carb kits now come with the paper gaskets for this area.


At least I knew on this twin Intek I had a bad carb issue that was causing the engine to be weak on one cylinder. (not just guessing at the issue now)

My point being is those dual throat Nikki's can cause a INtek engine to do some weird things AND THE O-RINGS SEALS INSIDE HAVE TO BE IN GOOD SHAPE to seal passages, etc. (and they are not all the same internally even though they look same on the outside)

 

[Okie]

Buyer called me the other day. Wanted to know if I wanted his dad's old mower. I had told him how to check for a seized engine, and he got out a wrench and was able to turn it over part ways. Then he hit a solid obstruction and it would not budge at all. A free fixer-upper was tempting, but it sounds like it is seriously damaged, and maybe even more so now that he turned it over by hand. I passed on it. I've got enough to deal with in fixing the John Deere.

If you have room to store (salvage) them freebies lawn tractors they really come in handy for spare parts, carbs, starters, or even selling the transaxles and steering parts, especially when You are fixing others up to sell or just doing it as a hobby.
Got to keep in mind though that even a freebie cost's dollars in fuel and time now days just to go retrieve the beast. (getting to where we do have to look a gift horse in the mouth now days)

 

[user 122190]

Thanks @Okie

I have submitted the online form with BrandNewEngines.com to see about a replacement engine. I've 3 options, at $795, $849 to $1239. Might not be a bad way to go. I'll still be under what the machine is worth. i.e. I can still sell for a profit, but since the Craftsman is now living elsewhere, this JD might have to be a keeper. As far as I'm concerned -- New Engine = New Mower

I might go back into the carb, but I have pretty much ruled that out by now. The waving the propane bottle at all the suspect air leakage spots tells me Not The Problem. And I do agree that these Nikki Carbs can be fickle.

I might drop the cutting deck, as it is still a mystery to me. If it is crap then that will be another decision variable.

 

[Okie]

Yes about dropping the cub's deck first.
When I'm re-building my own decks: LTX1046VT series machine
Couple hints about what I seen on my recent cub cadet decks:

Them decks have some tough steel, well built. Quite common to see a gauge wheel steel bracket that needs welded while the deck is off and /or the front center tension rod bracket.
Them cadet decks on that type are more user friendly to remove and re-install as compared to several of the Craftsman decks. I just got through going through, taking two 46 inch 2 blade cub cadet decks that look similar to yours and making one. Both of my decks looked the same and would fit under the tractor but the parts were slightly different such as blade length, belt idler diameters different by 1 1/2 inches, one had 5 star spindles vs 6 star. Keep a heads up about such if buying replacement deck parts.
You have be also keep a heads up about blades, 5 star, 6 star types and some are 1 1/2 inches different in lengths with the same model number of machine if replacing blades. I removed the top deck belt pulleys and then just dropped the shaft out the bottom with the blades still on the shafts then removed and repacked the bearings. I had to place one of the spindle shafts in my big blacksmith vise after heating the nut and side hammering on the nut to impact hammer the blade nut off. Sometimes I find if I need both bearings and a spindle shaft I just buy a complete spindle assembly leaving my old spindle housing in place and just transfer the new parts into the old housing that is still on the deck. Doing such keeps me from twisting off old seized bolts and I have my new spindle housing laid back if I ever need one later. The belt spindle pulleys are sometimes stripped on the shaft also. (you have to keep a heads up about their diameter also, sometimes as much as 1 1/2 difference in diameter which will upset the length of the deck belt's tension.
I did see 6 replacement spindle bearings on flea bay at a reasonable price. If anyone ever hit anything solid with a blade the star on the bottom of the spindle shaft will be stripped. Also just because you see grease serts on some of them spindle housing does not really mean the bearings are getting lubed properly. I think the grease inside the housing is just kinda maybe a heat sink. I have a grease gun vaccinating needle that I can use on some of the idler pulley rubber seals on the bottom side of the idler and then re-seal the needle hole with permatex gasket maker. going into the bearing seal on the bottom of the idlers reduces chance of water or dirt eventually getting into the needle hole or seal. Do not get any silcone gasket sealer inside of it will ruin the baring. Turns to abrasive sand when it gets heated.

Do keep a heads up and after removing the deck be sure and place the COMBO belt keeper anti rotation bracket bolts/nuts back on securing the electric clutch on the engine shaft. If the clutch is accidently en-gauged or the engine started with the anti-rotation bracket off the clutch will usually be ruined due to the rotation strain on the clutch wires possible ripping the wires from the sealed clutch housing.
Using some type of hoist or cherry picker to hold a deck vertical on saw horses sure makes for re-building them easier.

Also I found a FREE download parts manual on-line more easily than I found the owners manual.
Lots of the repair steps in the owners manual indicates to take the machine to the Cub dealer for repairs, BUT just go on-line and you tube and lots of Cub Cadet info about that series tractor to save time.
For example replacing one of the tractor drive idlers requires pulling the whole back off the machine for access to a top securing nut.

 

[user 122190]

I do think I got it. The last problem to solve was surging. In taking the carburetor apart a torn, mangled piece of foam dropped on the floor. I discarded it, thinking WTF. Well after thinking about it after reassembling the carb, the Choke plate flopped around a bit. The foam was there to stabilize the choke plate rod. I got a feeling that was the case when it was surging, it steadied out when I moved the choke lever. With the lever off, at operating temp was when it was surging.

I went back into the Carb, and cut out a piece of foam, and slipped an o'ring in place, and now the linkage is solid. No more flopping around, and holds steady while running at all throttle settings.

I'll ride it around for a few days, work on the cutting deck, and get it up for sale.

 

[user 122190]

This never ends. It is again back to surging. Last time I was in the carb, the main jets are very loose. The o'rings seem to be shot. I saw a video dealing with the same carb and those jets are suppose to be pressed in and take some force. Carb rebuild kit now on order. Fudge!!!

 

[user 122190]

And I got another mower. $80. Doesn't go in reverse, but it start, runs nice and it mows. Fix the Reverse? The thing weighs about nothing and is pushed with ease.

 

[JRM]

Forrest Gump approved

It would certainly help with resale. But probably depends on how deep you have to dig to fix it. Did you check all the linkage, confirm it is physically going into reverse?

 

[user 122190]

Forrest Gump approved

It would certainly help with resale. But probably depends on how deep you have to dig to fix it. Did you check all the linkage, confirm it is physically going into reverse?

I can see the operation of the cables, yet nothing happens. I've to much on my plate to invest much time or effort in to it.

 

[Okie]

MontanaResiden:

In your post #110 showing the picture of your Cub Cadet and the 20 HP Kohler engine.

Can you send me the EXACT LTX Model from the hood, I see LTX104?
and also the model number from the tractor?

The reason I'm asking for such is I have a Cub Cadet LTX1046 that looks like that machine with a Briggs Intek and I'm working on the Intek with it off the machine right now and going to have to split open the sump
AND I have a complete GOOD 20 Hp Kohler Courage engine with electric clutch not being used at the time and if I had your complete models I can maybe download a electrical diagram and parts list so as I could make the engine swap to my good Kohler engine easier.

My machine with the Briggs Twin Intek is a LTX1046, Model 13VR91AT009.

 

[user 122190]

MontanaResiden:

In your post #110 showing the picture of your Cub Cadet and the 20 HP Kohler engine.

Can you send me the EXACT LTX Model from the hood, I see LTX104?
and also the model number from the tractor?

The reason I'm asking for such is I have a Cub Cadet LTX1046 that looks like that machine with a Briggs Intek and I'm working on the Intek with it off the machine right now and going to have to split open the sump
AND I have a complete GOOD 20 Hp Kohler Courage engine with electric clutch not being used at the time and if I had your complete models I can maybe download a electrical diagram and parts list so as I could make the engine swap to my good Kohler engine easier.

My machine with the Briggs Twin Intek is a LTX1046, Model 13VR91AT009.

Thanks but I didn't buy the Cub Cadet. The Courage engine had me back off if. And I'm glad I did, I'm still working on the JD Mower.

And I have major water issues I am also working to resolve. I have no water, but am bringing over buckets of water from the neighbors and washing and bathing in freezing water. Fun times!

 

[JRM]

Water problems are never fun!
Are you on a well?

 

[user 122190]

Water problems are never fun!
Are you on a well?

Yup! I didn't have the pressure tank properly pressurize. I didn't know you have to pressurize the tank when it was empty. Got a new switch to install and my frost free hydrant has been leaking for a good bit. Lots of digging, 3' down and wide so I got room to move.

 

[davidprivett]

let me ask a question/opinion. My daughter called me the other day and said her zero turn husky 2346 23 hp kohler courage. would not turn over it just clicked, so I thought I do not know how old the battery is so we will change it out. When I got there I engage the starter and the start relay clicked loudly and I thought it is not the battery ,felt the relay it was warm , I had put a new starter on it a month ago. Anyway I tryed to rotate the flywheel and it was stuck kinda firmly. I looked at the oil fresh looking and full. Went back to the flywheel and put more force on it and it came loose. I looked at the gas lever and it was set wide open, so I assume that it was turned off at wide open. Do you think that is why it stuck? The cylinders got washed? It was most likely hot mowing a coulpa acres before turn off. ideas?

 

[user 122190]

let me ask a question/opinion. My daughter called me the other day and said her zero turn husky 2346 23 hp kohler courage. would not turn over it just clicked, so I thought I do not know how old the battery is so we will change it out. When I got there I engage the starter and the start relay clicked loudly and I thought it is not the battery ,felt the relay it was warm , I had put a new starter on it a month ago. Anyway I tryed to rotate the flywheel and it was stuck kinda firmly. I looked at the oil fresh looking and full. Went back to the flywheel and put more force on it and it came loose. I looked at the gas lever and it was set wide open, so I assume that it was turned off at wide open. Do you think that is why it stuck? The cylinders got washed? It was most likely hot mowing a coulpa acres before turn off. ideas?

Pull the sparks plugs. Turns over with ease? Anything come out? Condition of the plug? Etc.

 

[davidprivett]

we started it and it seems to be fine ,no strange noises. So I told her to let it idle for a min. before she turns it off, not knowing what else it could help from it happening again . I was just wondering why it stuck.

 

[user 122190]

Still not up to standard so I rebuilt the carb, and it started up just fine. Both exhaust pipes are reading good, right is a laggard in getting to temp. Swapped the coils and it is again surging a bit. I ordered 2 new ignition coils. I'm getting close. Very close.

 

[user 122190]

I put the coils in this afternoon. Machine now sounds like new. It purrs. It is now for sale.

 

[user 122190]

Lining up to buy another Craftsman tomorrow. The mowers are growing increasingly in scarcity. Deals are drying up, gots to get what I can when they come available.

I got a call from a guy in Glascow, MT yesterday. He might come out later this week to buy the John Deere. A 500+ mile drive. Really really hard to get a mower new from a dealer, and increasingly from anybody anymore.

I've been riding the John Deere about every other day, working the controls, engaging the PTO, just putting the machine thru its paces and it is now a very fine mower. I dropped the mower deck and sharpened the cutting blades yesterday. There is no evidence that they had ever been sharpened before, and this is a 650 hour machine. So dull I cannot believe they cut grass at all. Very very sharp now.

Before and After: