Hard Cover for a Splitter

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sb47, I’ve had the same thought. A 3 purpose towable shelter. The thought came up flying model airplanes. I have a runway for models on my property. Flying in the summer with no shelter from the sun is tough. So the thought of a shelter germinated. I figure 10x10x10 on wheels so it can be towed. Also insulation to reduce the heat from the sun. Three purposes; airplane flying, firewood splitting and equipment repair in the field if it can be towed to the equipment. I designed it in my head, priced it out but never built it. Just too many projects to work on. Summertime in Texas is rough.


When I was racing I had one of those portable pop up tent covers that I would set up next to my toy hauler at the track to keep the sun off my bike and provide a little work area next to my trailer. I had it set up over my splitter one day for some shade and I didn't have it staked down very well. A gust of wind popped up and it took off flying well above the tree line height. When it hit the ground it bent it up like a pretzel. I would get another one but they have issues the way there designed. They can get water pockets if it rains and you have to take a stick and lift up the pocket and drain the water off before it gets so heavy it collapses.They also deteriorate in the sun and wouldn't last if left out in the sun for a long time. The 10'x10' size was about right for a splitter shelter. Yes noise would be a factor with a tin roof in the rain but if it's raining that hard I probably would be out working in it anyway. When I first started racing I used a cargo trailer to haul my bike in and camp in at the track. I soon learned that when it rained it was so loud you couldn't even hear yourself think.
So I insulated it with foam rubber and put paneling under the inside and that made a huge difference. Not only in the sound but it helped the A/C unit in the summer. I wounder if you had one of those portable metal carports and had someone come out and put some of that spray foam under the inside of the roof how much it would cut the noise from the rain and block some of the heat. That way it wouldn't have to be so tall to keep the heat from radiating and frying your head in the summer.
If I build one out of wood it would much heavier then one of those metal framed ones. Ether way I would have to stake it down to keep it from blowing over. I would like to have something that I could move around so I can drag it next to the wood pile. I'm leaning towards building one out of wood with skids to drag it on. I could build one cheaper the buying one of those prefabbed metal carports. Still thinking debating with myself on witch way to go.

My wood comes from a tree guy that dumps here for free. And the piles move around depending on where I have room for it. If I had a dragable shelter and one of those gorillaback lift units it would save me a lot of work moving wood to stationary shed splitting area. I have decided to buy one of those gorillaback lift units that mounts on my splitter so I'm gonna give that a try and see how well it works. Sure would save my back from lifting heavy rounds. I ain't gettin any younger.
 
I don’t know what you have for trailer equipment, but maybe you can back the trailer underneath the shelter and make some kind of a 2 x 4 frame and use a jack to just lift it up a foot so it’s supported on the on the trailer and then moving around pulling a trailer. not thinking highway just moving it around the wood lot so it only have to go a foot off the ground
 
When we go fishing we use live bait we catch with a throw net. Last year we picked up a cheap rubber maid tub we could drop the end of the net in and dump the fish. Some times we pull up a five gallon bucket full at a time. John didn't want to leave it on the boat, so I took it home. was perfect for covering the engine. I have the same splitter.

X2 on the Rubbermaid covering the engine. Add a bungie or two and its good to go. Got a buddy who has done this for many years (my splitter sleeps indoors). Run down to Wait Mart and grab one for cheap.

On another note. Dumping the cast net in the tub is a great idea. We have a tall live well/bait well that is a pain to dump our net in. I am forever chasing Ballyhoo around on the deck. I'll grab a tub and give that a try.
 
sb47, regarding the shelter we both have the same thoughts. I’m not keen on dragging. In the last 2 weeks I’ve had 5 days of heavy rain. Yesterday a little more. Dragging on wet ground would make ruts. Tractor is bad enough, makes mud with the weight and wheels. Wood lot would be a mess in short order. Wind and tying it down is a concern.

Noise, I agree. Had a roof reshingled. Used a ridge vent and got rid of roof turbines. Problem is the kitchen vent replacement makes noise in the rain. Mostly heavy rain. I may have to add a rubber piece to the top to deaden the sound. It is livable but you do hear it in a good rain.

I appreciate all the suggestions but I’m going with my idea. I got all the cuts figured out to try this out. I made a cardboard model for a test. One piece of foam will cover the top and sides down to the top of the tank. I’m using an old BBQ as my work station for working the foam. AND, I followed the idea on the other thread. My BBQ top is a good fit for an engine cover. Talk about repurpose for an old BBQ. If this works I’ll clean the rust off my splitter and do some primer and paint.

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I have a 35 ton Huskee and for a year around cover that never moves even in high winds, I use an old vinyl single bed water bed mattress. The vinyl mattress has held up for years and drapes enough to shed water and snow.

Ken
 
Thanks, I’m not too keen on fabric type covers. That is why I’m going for a solid cover. I purchased 2 sheets of foam yesterday. More than enough for my cover. Will have some left over. If I have time today I’ll make my cuts for that top cover. Once I’m past the top cover the rest should be easy, I think. LOL.
 
Right now, I’m thinking of reinforcing several points for Velcro straps. I didn’t get to do anything today. I got a call from a lady with a problem faucet. Tomorrow I should be able to cut the top and cut the grooves for bending. Then slowly start the bend process. Will probably use a heat gun.
 
I finally got started on this project. Cutting those grooves for bending was not as easy as I had thought. I was using my table saw. I found that the foam was so light it did not want to stay flat on the table. I had to place some weight on the foam to keep it close to the table and blade. As I cut I had to push down close to the blade and pull the foam for the pass. I only cut the one groove for the peak.

Plan B for the wider grooves for bending the sides is to use my hot wire cutter. I’ll make a tool for cutting the grooves. One pass and groove is done. First, I’ll test this with scrap foam.

Pictured is my BBQ work table. I bent the ridge part and have it taped together to hold the shape.

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I have a friend who built a dome house out of 1-foot thick bead-board Styrofoam (EPS): beveled the edges; glued it together with the canned foam (he got it in commercial sized tanks); then coated it, inside and out, with mesh cloth and synthetic stucco material. Very easy to heat! Still standing after almost 40 years.

Philbert
 
Yes I have seen lots of things made with foam. A lot of good craftsmen out there. One thing I want to try is reinforcing the foam with regular window screening material. Doing just the inside. People are using it to make foam cabinets and shelves for travel trailers and vans converted for camping. The foam products are lightweight and super strong. This cover will be a good test piece for that technique.

I did a little hot wire testing. Looks like this will work out. I burned up a few wires doing the tests. The foam piece in the picture shows the different free hand groove cuts. I’ll make up a cutter that will slide against a fence for a straight line cut. I like the curved inside corners rather than the right angle corner a table saw would make. I’ll be using the 3.3 volts. The other voltages are too hot.

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A little slow working on this project. Life and weather gets in the way. I did some hot wire cutting making collar beams. Made a groove cutter. Cut the 2 large grooves. I’ll bend the sides to finally shape the top cover. Bending will be the next difficult task. A little bit of heat and go very slow. The little piece shows the purpose for the grooves. Makes bending a bit easier. I’ll probably fill that open gap with can foam. I can’t wait to get this piece out of my shop. It seems to always be in the way.

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I bent the first side yesterday. It was not too hard. Just go slow and use heat. I used everything I could to hold that bend. Even my Hookaroon added some weight. Wind was a problem. It was blowing against me for one and also cooling the heat. I had to add tape to the bend line. Then apply heat a bit closer.

Today I bent the second side. I couldn’t use my work table because of that first bend. So I brought in a 2x12 wooden ramp that I use. This worked well. Better to work inside. Next is cut the 2 end pieces then start gluing this top cover together.

All was not fun though. It was a pretty day but cool and windy. My grass is growing like crazy. The green green grass of home. Early March and I had to do my first mowing of the season. Just around the house and shop. Fun Fun!!!

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I think that will turn out great as long as you can anchor it against the wind and maybe paint it to protect it from the sun. The Sporting Clays range use the calving huts to cover their clay bird throwers, the throwers are on a longish pallet and they attach the calving hut to the pallet with a few hinges, Tip it up and backwards to access the thrower.
 
Thanks, I’ll probably use Velcro to anchor the top. I still have to make 2 wings to cover the engine and tank area. Probably all one piece. Just lift and set it aside. Once finished I’ll add some fiberglass and paint. So far the top cover has used up one 4x8 sheet of foam with a few waste pieces.
 

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