Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
For squish bands I use a cutter imbedded in my mandrel. It works pretty well....
Having the right tool.......
- Thread starter Mastermind
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For squish bands I use a cutter imbedded in my mandrel. It works pretty well....
brncreeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was wondering how you did that. I suppose a boring bar would be too tricky.
parrisw
Tree Freak
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Or a mill, a rotary table and a boring bar for an asymmetrical low stress cut.
Just sayin......
Just sayin......
parrisw
Tree Freak
Ya, if ya have such a thing. Which I would love to have.
I just look at each job as how is it most rigid and how many you gonna do.
That's why the "just sayin"
Quick and dirty and right now.....you had it in my book.
Some folks have a mill/drill and no lathe.
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With the right tool, it is indeed 'easy' to get things done in a fast and efficient way. But you can't have everything, especially if you are a hobbyist like many of us.
I have utmost respect and sympathy however for folks who are inventive and happen to achieve results with selfmade tools or tricks, sometimes at very low cost to boot. Slow maybe, but that's the only factor for a hobbyist that really doesn't matter that much.
Just love pics of 'my setup' for a given job. I am hear to learn until I cross the big river.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I believe the proper tools to work inside the transfers are very important on most saw models, specially if you are working on aftermarket top ends, as the porting usually is bad at best on those - some are a true disaster....
tree monkey
Addicted to ArboristSite
i have a mill and a lath, i cut the squish band by hand because it's faster
Hmmmmm....didn't realize that the last set of pics didn't go for some reason.....I probably numbed out or something...
These are the pics that go with post #50.........sorry about that....
More pics of tools TM...close yer eyes....LOL!!!!
These are the pics that go with post #50.........sorry about that....
More pics of tools TM...close yer eyes....LOL!!!!
What type of a tool do you use I am interested in one of those thanks.
parrisw
Tree Freak
Lath? Must be something new I haven't heard of yet. DO TELL!!
parrisw
Tree Freak
Why do you make toast when you work on saws?
Because its yummy?
Exactly TK....and because I can...as long as there isn't a pesky set of main bearings or case half in there taking up all the space and making my 12 grain super organic bread taste kinda funny.....
Right Tool
I would like to make my donation to this post.Now with arthritis in my hands I required a tool that would assist me.It is a Milwaukee 12 volt power ratchet.It is great for removing bars, mower blades ext. It has a regular ratchet feature so I am able to tighten bar nuts with-out worry or accidentally stripping or breaking parts. Ken
I would like to make my donation to this post.Now with arthritis in my hands I required a tool that would assist me.It is a Milwaukee 12 volt power ratchet.It is great for removing bars, mower blades ext. It has a regular ratchet feature so I am able to tighten bar nuts with-out worry or accidentally stripping or breaking parts. Ken
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I would like to make my donation to this post.Now with arthritis in my hands I required a tool that would assist me.It is a Milwaukee 12 volt power ratchet.It is great for removing bars, mower blades ext. It has a regular ratchet feature so I am able to tighten bar nuts with-out worry or accidentally stripping or breaking parts. Ken
I like that thing. :msp_thumbup:
LOL I thought it had something to do with that. I bet there's some sort of cooler/freezer hangin around the shop too - and not just for beer!
bcorradi
Arboristsite.com Sponsor
I don't personally port saws, but the stihl tools that I have are invaluable imo for rebuilding saws. I have the seal puller, case splitter, pressure vac tester, 029 family ring compressor, bar stud puller, flywheel pullers, etc.
LOL...actually TK I do have little dorm size ref/freezer in the shop...however personally I don't subscribe to the "freezer" treatment for saw parts. Mostly because the normal freezer runs at around 0 degrees F which in reality gives about you a 70 degree differential from room temp......70 degrees up from room temp is 140 degrees .....the temp of your hot water in your home. Another 70 degrees up puts you at 210 which is 140 degree differential from room temp.....I have found on cases you need a differential from room temp of 150-170 degrees for easy drop in bearing/crank installation. I just set the dial for 220-230 for 15-20 mins and things go together fine. This temp won't bother paint either. On main bearings I up the temp to 250-270 and they just drop right on a room temp crank. Now if I had dry ice around I would use that as it will freeze things down to a meaningfull differential...plus it just plain looks more sinister and scary than an old toaster oven. LOL!!
That's the way I do it anyway...just heat and assemble by hand (with leather gloves) no beating, pounding or drifting needed or allowed.
