Help choosing a chain grinder please...

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Bluefish

I saw that...
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Hi, looking at two specific models at this time but am open to suggestions within a price range.
Right now I am considering the Oregon 551462 and the Maxx grinder. I have read a ton of posts
But hope you guys can help me compare and contrast a bit.
Repeatability, ease of usage , and durability would be important factors in my decision.
Only unit I have seen locally is the timber tuff at TSC and I am afraid it may be cheap for a reason.
Trying to get set up before winter firewood time, appreciate any insight you could give me.
Thanks, Russ
 
Learning to hand file is a lot cheaper and you can do it wherever and whenever needed.
I figure it's best to have both options available. If you cut in urban areas, you will be encountering stuff in wood that will trash your chain to the point that a file ain't gonna do the job. If you have to do a lot of driving to get to somebody with a grinder, sometimes it's better to just buy your own machine. I'm lucky, there's a saw shop within minutes of where I live. Others aren't so lucky.
 
I can do an OK job by hand. I want to be able to keep them even as possible. I will touch up or trade out in the woods as need be and get them as "minty" as possible on the grinder. Also, truth be told, I like gadgets. Russ
 
I bought mine from Grizzly. Lots and lots of Oregon clones out there. If this is for your personal use, a clone will keep a lot of coin in your pocket, and you might never notice or made aware of there being a difference (if there is one?).
 
I figure it's best to have both options available. If you cut in urban areas, you will be encountering stuff in wood that will trash your chain to the point that a file ain't gonna do the job. If you have to do a lot of driving to get to somebody with a grinder, sometimes it's better to just buy your own machine. I'm lucky, there's a saw shop within minutes of where I live. Others aren't so lucky.

The only place I know that sharpens with a grinder (a Stihl dealer) is 50 miles away. To damn far. Learn to use a file, and your chains will last a very long time, and get a grinder for the dumb mistakes we all make eventually. I think I've made all the mistakes there is, and wondering when I'll revisit some of them again.
 
Looking for a quality unit. Hoping to hear about these two models in particular. Thanks, Russ
 
Russ, either one of those two will be fine and a whole lot better than the cheap junk!

That said, I don't own a grinder and have never paid a shop to grind a chain. I like the way a filed chain cuts better, faster... But I do understand why you want one and there's nothing wrong with that...
 
I have a Oregon 511A and like it just fine.

Per your original question, either of those grinders would be great
 
Russ, either one of those two will be fine and a whole lot better than the cheap junk!

That said, I don't own a grinder and have never paid a shop to grind a chain. I like the way a filed chain cuts better, faster... But I do understand why you want one and there's nothing wrong with that...
Thanks Don, always appreciate your insights. Russ
I have a Oregon 511A and like it just fine.

Per your original question, either of those grinders would be great
Thank you Sir, will read a bit more then order one up. Russ
 
The MAXX is a great grinder in theory. I owned one. Unfortunately it was let down by a poorly fitted turntable and the angles between left and right hand cutters were out by miles. The mechanical clamping system was great and I believe it is better than the hydraulic clamping setups on the Tecomec made Speed Sharp/Oregon/Jolly grinders. The whole setup however was simply let down by poor manufacturing with crap accuracy and consistency.
I sold it after buying a Speed Sharp Auto (same as Oregon 511AX auto) and haven't looked back. The Speed Sharp made me realise just how bad the MAXX actually was.
Idiots with grinders can certainly wreck chains - people who actually know what they're doing will not wreck chains. I've seen more poorly filed chains than poorly ground chains and they are a great tool for resetting angles etc once a chain has seen a bit of work.

You still should learn how to file properly though, no doubt about it.

I started a number of threads on my issues with the MAXX maybe 5-6 years ago. Since this site got hacked they are probably hard to find now.
 
For the real tightwads out there, another option is also possible. Buy one of those junky Harbor Freight grinders, you can get 'em used for under 30 bucks. Use the HF grinder only when you rock a chain or hit a railroad spike or something such. Use the HF grinder for grinding out all the bad stuff and setting the proper angle again. Then you follow up with a file to get the sharp edge you want, the HF grinder by itself usually can't do that very well.
 
Do not buy a Harbour Freight grinder.. Horrible advice . I like the bi-directional type myself. They are hard to find but worth the time looking . With the bi directional you will put the burr to the outside of the cutter on both sides.


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Thanks for the hot tip but I try to avoid the " bi directional" types. Hahaha , too much chance of getting stuff in your face...and stuff. Russ
 
Do not buy a Harbour Freight grinder.. Horrible advice . I like the bi-directional type myself. They are hard to find but worth the time looking . With the bi directional you will put the burr to the outside of the cutter on both sides.


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I agree on the cheaper grinders. As far as the burrs go they are highly overrated. Within a few milliseconds of hitting any wood those burrs are gone. Yes the ground chains look prettier but chains ground with bi directional grinders don't actually function any better in the real world.
 
If and when I get a wheel like that my 550xp will be switched to 3/8 most likely. Russ
 
I got one of those clone grinders about 9 months ago. Then got some Molemab wheels. Works fine, once you and it get sorted out. The OEM wheels were a bit eccentric, the Molemab much better.

There's a bit of play in the mechanism, that gives you flexibility as to where to contact the teeth. Little more, little less, as required. Lets you accomodate little differences in tooth length. Push a little left, a little right as required.

Works great for $100, enormously better than the HF cheapie.
 
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