Help identify this hydraulic pump

[winland]

My OLD home (farmer) made log splitter is not working well.
It has no power when splitting logs.
The ram extends and retracts fine, but very little power when in the wood.
Use to split big logs like butter, now it won't hardly split butter.

Below are a couple photos of the hydraulic pump.
Can anyone give a positive ID on this pump?
Looks to be possibly an old Concentric/Haldex pump, but no idea what size it is.

My splitter has a 17hp Kohler engine and a 28" long x 4" diam cylinder

Thanks for your help.

 

[dave_dj1]

So what do you want to know? What to replace it with? Judging by the size and type of mount I would take a WAG at minimum of 16 gph to 28 gph. 11 gph pumps are kind of small, that one looks rather large.

 

[winland]

So what do you want to know? What to replace it with?

I would like to find a direct replacement for this pump, so I do not want to have to make a bunch of new connections or modifications.
I have not been able to locate a 4 bolt mount that has a 1' NPTF input.

 

[wndwlkr]

The filter on the suction side is not good . 16 gpm pump would be easy to go from 1" - 3/4" inlet , but that filter will starve a pump for sure. JMHO.

 

[RVALUE]

My similar pump is 6 gpm according to the hydraulic store. Hard to believe but that is what they say. It's on a bucket truck, and 4 cyl wisconsin.

and it will bog the engine.




Slight chance that it is the valve or cylinder instead of the pump.

 

[dave_dj1]

I see, I think your right in that to be a 4 bolt mount it will have to be a 16 gpm or down. It looks like all that size have a tube fitting for the inlet.
As suggested above, check the valve and cylinder seals. Have you checked to see if the filter is clean or blocked?
good luck,
dave

 

[triptester]

The pump could be a Delta. The suction side of the pump is already bushed down to 3/4" so any 11-16 gpm 2-stage pump will fit depending on engine size.

When losing power the first thing to check is the cylinder for worn seals. To check cylinder seals extend the ram to where you can place a jack between the wedge and the push plate, with the engine off and the control valve in nuetral extend the jack, if the cylinder can be forced to retract the seals are probaly leaking.

 

[chaikwa]

A few people have mentioned it, but that filter needs to be addressed. There's nothing wrong with a suction side filter if it's sized correctly. But that one is WAY too small for the suction side of a 16gpm system.

If you're having trouble with the hydraulics, either eliminate that filter or get a larger mounting head and corresponding filter before you go throwing money at a pump and/or valves.

 

[winland]

I have tested the cylinder seals as triptester suggested.
They appear to be good.
I have replaced the filter, still no power in wood.


What damage can be done by having the "too small filter" on the suction side of the pump?

I purchase this very old splitter 2 years ago and have split about 20 cords of wood with it.
No idea how many hundreds of cords it has split in it's lifetime.

 

[dave_dj1]

If the pump can't draw enough fluid through the filter it can and will cavitate causing severe damage to the pump. They don't like running dry. I don't know how to test the valve but it could be bad or need new seals. If it is the relief valve it will usually scream.
Something you could check is to see if the spring in the relief valve on the valve is broken. Just a thought.

 

[half]

checking relief

another sign of bypass is heat, if the relief valve is warmer than other components then it is bypassing for sure. Is it my eyes or has the delivery side of the pump got a reducing ferrel in the pump, If so why??? Another way to check the ram is to start the machine fully extend the ram, and crack the line on the return side, and see how much oil is bypassing. And I would change the outlet elbow on the pump for a swept bend

 

[triptester]

Check the coupling between the pump and engine for slippage.
Check for low fluid level.
Did the power loss happen suddenly?

 

[RVALUE]

I have seen a deteriorating hose plug a new filter almost immediately. It deteriorated from the inside and didn't show.

I also had a different hose break its inner core and completely seal off the hydraulic flow in one direction, and the other direction ran perfectly. Very hard to figure out.

It sounds like the consensus is that there is a very low chance it is the pump worn out.

(so that is a likely chance. )

 

[winland]

OK, I have decided to entirely rework my old splitter.
First I need to explain that my entire knowledge is from "Google" when it come to
hydraulics and engines and most everything mechanical.
I have ordered a new 16 gpm pump that has a 1" input tube.
I apparently need "suction hose" from the tank to the pump, I plan to eliminate the filter from this part of the splitter.
I have Google searched Tractor Supply, Rural King, Menards, Lowes, ACE hardware, but can not find
1" suction hose that I need. Only need less than 36". Do not need 100' roll. I would prefer to buy local rather than order from Amazon.
Can someone help with this initial problem.

 

[triptester]

I have purchsed a few fittings from here.

SAE 100R1AT Hydraulic Hose (1 Wire)

 

[half]

hyd hose

dont forget you will need fittings put on to your hose, unless you are familiar with reusables it will be a job for your local hose doctor, they will sort out length, hose specs and fittings to suit and crimp the new fittings on. And they will have all the angles and types you want.
the days of doing hoses yourself are long gone and reusables are very dear now
And one wire hose is only good for 400ps,,i so you will need double braid, and fitting to suit.
we have a couple of nationwide outlets to get hose and this one is in the states too

www.enzed.co.nz