Help me pick a new saw

[cgarman]

I've been running a Poulan Pro 295 for a few years now, and today it took every ounce of self respect I had not to give it a hook shot down to the rock pile. I brought my used 076AV back from the grave, so I think my diagnostic and maintenance skills are at least typical. I swear, this saw mocks me. I can hear it laugh. I'll post the problems I have with it in another thread, but suffice it to say that I'm in the market for a more reliable piece of equipment.

I also own (as said above) a Stihl 076AV that I bought used and repaired. I use it on my mill, but also came across a 36" bar for it at a yardsale for $5. Once I get a chain, I should have a beast for cutting up large trees.

I'm trying to decide the best saw to replace my 42cc Poulan. One thing is for certain - it has to be a Stihl. I already own enough tools and parts to make this decision easy.

I own 6 acres, all wooded and very hilly. 8-12" trees fall and limbs drop faster than I can burn the wood.

I also have a large (15 feet high) pile of trees, rocks, and dirt that is left over from when the house was built. I'm trying to cut these up to burn (outside - lots of rotten logs and stumps) and get them out of my way. In the mix are several large 24-30" poplars, and maybe close to a hundred smaller trees. Footing is slippery climbing over the pile, so I need something that I can use on awkward footing.

I hesitate to say that money is no object, but honestly my first priority is getting a saw that I know is going to be easy to start and run all day when I need it to. $300-500 is no problem. I could step up to $700 if needed, and have considered the $1000 mark, but someone may need to push me over the edge there

I'm thinking of three different directions here:

1.) get an arborist saw with a 14-16" bar because it will be easy to carry around the rocks. After my big pile is gone (never to return), it should do me good service just cutting up the fallen stuff and making firewood.

2.) Go for broke, and get something like a 440 or 660. Now that my 076AV is tuned up, it starts on the first or second pull every time. Not sure why, but it just seems like that big cylinder wants to turn over and rip through some wood. I might trade lugging a big saw around for the knowledge that my right shoulder won't hurt from trying 30 minutes to start it.

3.) aim for the middle with something in the 50-60 cc range, to truly replace the size saw I had with the Poulan.

So, maybe now you can see my dilemma. Do I go small, light and portable (plus, maybe cheaper to replace the chains and filters, etc.) or get a bigger saw that will cut faster, even if I spend more energy carrying it around. I still have my 076AV to rely on if anything huge pops up again, but since I leave it on the mill, it takes nearly an hour to pull it off and set up the other bar.

If anyone can help me out, I know you guys can.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[computeruser]

A good 50cc machine should do you fine. Buy a 261 and call it a day.

 

[Natty Bumppo]

I also have a large (15 feet high) pile of trees, rocks, and dirt that is left over from when the house was built. I'm trying to cut these up to burn

I'm not sure that rocks will burn, or that a chainsaw is the best tool for cutting them up. Maybe a jackhammer?

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

I would say a 261 sounds about right.

 

[fearofpavement]

I concur with computer user. Based on your needs and your budget, I would highly recommend the MS261. It should handle about everything you need it to and you have the big guy for extreme situations. It should last you for decades if properly cared for.

 

[B Harrison]

A good 50cc machine should do you fine. Buy a 261 and call it a day.

If it must be a stihl and you allready have the 70+ filled then the 261 is as good an option as there is. You might pay more than $500 though look for a lightly used 260 pro.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

For once, a consensus! 261 all the way. Nix on the climbing saw, they truly are designed for in tree use. I rarely, rarely use my 200 out of the tree, it is too easy and tempting to start waving it around like a ginsu knife, and way too easy for your off hand to cross the cutting plane. Stihl really got it right withe 261 ( which I'm sure means they'll replace it with a leaned out gutless 262 next year and screw it all up)

 

[Philip Wheelock]

Ms 261.

 

[TPA]

261

If you need to go a little bigger, there is always the 362 w/25" bar.

 

[Isna]

One more vote for 261.

 

[RiverRocket]

If you are buying new than a 261 just like everyone else is saying, but if you could find a used 260 or 026. I have two older 026s and they are awesome, bullet proof, reliable saws.
You could probably find a good used 026 for $200-$300

 

[cgarman]

Thanks for the feedback.

Just wondering why *everyone* said the 261. It is 50 cc, and priced at $560. The 271 is also 50 cc, but only $430. The bigger 311 is 59 cc, priced at $480. I asked the dealer what the difference is, and they said that the 261 is more expensive due to CA emissions requirements.

What else does the 261 have over the 271 and 311?

 

[excess650]

The 261 is a "pro construction saw" meaning that the cylinder is removable from the crank case. The other saws are "clamshell designs" where the cylinder is integral with the upper of the crankcase, and the entire assembly is enclosed in plastic. Oiler drives riding in plastic and bar studs seated in plastic are a couple of the potential problems. They are aimed towards an occasional user/homeowner, and because they are more labor intensive to service, are more likely to be regarded as disposable.

 

[rburg]

The 261 is lighter than the 271 and the 311. The 261 has more power than the 271.

 

[JakeG]

346XP get's my vote. Most of your trees are relatively small. It's lightweight with low vibration and plenty of power.

 

[cgarman]

The 261 is a "pro construction saw" meaning that the cylinder is removable from the crank case. The other saws are "clamshell designs" where the cylinder is integral with the upper of the crankcase, and the entire assembly is enclosed in plastic. Oiler drives riding in plastic and bar studs seated in plastic are a couple of the potential problems. They are aimed towards an occasional user/homeowner, and because they are more labor intensive to service, are more likely to be regarded as disposable.

So, when it comes time to replace the cylinder, it will be simpler with the 261 because the cylinder is separate from the crankcase? Not sure if I'm understanding the "clamshell" vs. "pro construction" difference...

 

[cgarman]

The 261 is lighter than the 271 and the 311. The 261 has more power than the 271.

Both the 261 and 271 are listed with 50 cc displacement. Is the 271 really that much more powerful? They seem to be almost identical, except for captive bar nuts, and $130. That would buy a lot of extra bar nuts

 

[RogueWave]

Both the 261 and 271 are listed with 50 cc displacement. Is the 271 really that much more powerful? They seem to be almost identical, except for captive bar nuts, and $130. That would buy a lot of extra bar nuts

The 261 if built for everyday use hence "pro". 271 is for the other side of things and has it's place. Really gotta say that extra $130 is well worth it in my opinion for a 261. Lighter than a 271 but same or more power. Excellent air filtration system on the 261 for one thing.

 

[echoshawn]

Knowing very little about the specifics of the 2 saws, outside of the clamshell vs pro design, I'd weigh in on the side of the 261 as well.
If you can afford it, pro design engine is the way to go, especially if it's going to be for regular use. You could save a few bucks on the homeowner design and possibly regret it later, or go for the pro, and have an easier to service, longer lasting saw.

 

[H 2 H]

View attachment 289163

View attachment 289164

View attachment 289165

:msp_smile: