Help needed with 371xp rebuild

[ale]

I'm getting ready to rebuild a 371xp. This will be my first build. I've used the search to gather all the info I could. I would like to know if someone can pm or email me a manual to help me along. Just wanting to make sure I take the right steps and don't forget anything. Is there any special steps or prep to installing the piston and cylinder? Or do you just bolt it on dry and go? I'm going to take pics along the way and will post them as things progress. The saw is a late model 371xp...It was in good running condition when I tore it apart. I figured this would be the best way to learn. I rebuilt the carb already. I have a new oem jug and piston (75cc) version. I've already modded a new muffler and I'm going to use a full wrap handle. My goals for it are simple. I want to use it for firewood mostly, but I want it to rev fast and be very nimble and versatile.

Here's the starting line...
(so what's my first move).... and if anyone says "buy a 361" I'll puke! :greenchainsaw:

 

[dancan]

If you get a 361 you'll put the project away a get the job of cutting firewood done with a smile , guaranteed !

 

[oldsaw]

Hey, Ale, there isn't any big secrets involved, I did mine without the book and all came out well. Very simple, although being used to Homies and Stihls I did a bit of head scratching on why they did things a certain way.

Here is the link: Project 372 I converted a worn 365 to a 372, pretty much what you are doing, since the saws are of the same basic design. It's a good saw, great "all arounder", although I want to find a 262 for one of my next projects since they seem to get some raves.

I didn't do anything special, just have some mechanical aptitude and the willingness to make a couple of tools. For assembly lube, I had some 20w-50 in an old fashioned oil can, and hit the lower bearings and the piston and pin during assembly. Very straightforward. Don't have a lot of hours on it since the rebuild, but I really like the saw.

Mark

 

[DirtDog]

OLDSAW, I know this is off the subject, but what is the difference between the Husqy 261/262? Can I convert my 261 to a 262 and get some more omph from it?

 

[oldsaw]

OLDSAW, I know this is off the subject, but what is the difference between the Husqy 261/262? Can I convert my 261 to a 262 and get some more omph from it?

That's what I've been told. Same chassis, different cylinder design. I'm keeping my eyes out for either.

Mark

 

[andrethegiant70]

I think SawTroll did a pretty good job summing up the difference a few weeks ago. If I recall correctly, he indicated that the following items were different:

Piston (crowned in the 262)
Muffler (full of baffles in the 261)
Carburetor (dunno what the difference is)

Swap out the piston, gut the muffler, richen up the carb and you've pretty much got it. I think its pretty straightforward. I have a secret treasure box in my shop with a 261 in it waiting for a rainy day. Shhhhh. I was going to EBAY it for parts but CAD got the better of me.

 

[ale]

ok things are going together pretty good...

I just can't figure out this starter recoil...It's giving me fits. Someone please walk me through this part...

 

[excess650]

Wow! Everything is really clean, and looking good. Keep us posted!opcorn:

 

[dancan]

ok things are going together pretty good...

I just can't figure out this starter recoil...It's giving me fits. Someone please walk me through this part...

Wind it up first then install the rope , you figured everything else out the string should be a piece of cake .

 

[kurtty]

how did you get that saw so clean?

what problem are you having with the starter recoil? is it stuck or are you just having trouble putting the cover on

 

[ale]

whats the proper way and length of rope to use?

 

[joesawer]

whats the proper way and length of rope to use?

You want enough rope so that when you are cranking the saw you will not hit the end of it. If it hits the end it will often cause axle failure. The spool should be close to full.
Trim your knot closer and make sure that the knot is set into the recess for it, so that it will not contact anything as the spool rotates.
cut the rope the length you need and with it trheaded through the starter cover as in your pic, thread it through the handle and tie a figure eight. Do all this with the spring relaxed.
There is a notch in the pulley, it is towards the top of the cover in your pic. Line ithe notch up with the gap in the orange plastic towards the hole in your cover. Pull about a foot or so of slack back inside the cover and pull the cord straigh up through the notch. Then rotate the pulley with the cord in order to tighten the recoil spring. about three or four full rotations and then take the cord out of the notch at the gap and let the spring rewind it around the pulley and check the tension.
The cord should rewind all the way until the handle sets firmly against the cover and no more. A lot of people like to over tighten the spring and then wonder why it breaks. You can use the cord and notch to do any percentage of a partial rotation to fine tune the tension.

 

[SawTroll]

That's what I've been told. Same chassis, different cylinder design. I'm keeping my eyes out for either.

Mark

I think SawTroll did a pretty good job summing up the difference a few weeks ago. If I recall correctly, he indicated that the following items were different:

Piston (crowned in the 262)
Muffler (full of baffles in the 261)
Carburetor (dunno what the difference is)

Swap out the piston, gut the muffler, richen up the carb and you've pretty much got it. I think its pretty straightforward. I have a secret treasure box in my shop with a 261 in it waiting for a rainy day. Shhhhh. I was going to EBAY it for parts but CAD got the better of me.

The info originates from Spike60.

Piston is dished on the 261, needs to be changed.
Cylinder is the same, can be kept if OK.

Muffler is very different, has to be changed or extensively modded.

Clutch is stronger on the 262xp.

Different carb numbers have been used, but according to Spike it doesn't really matter which one you have.

 

[DirtDog]

Thanks, I did a search for 261/262 and found SPIKE60s info.

 

[taplinhill]

Thanks, I did a search for 261/262 and found SPIKE60s info.

If you do the conversion you will notice a huge increase in power. I did one and didn't expect much, but was very suprised.

 

[ale]

Well, I got it ready to fire...should be soon. Any tips on breaking it in?

 

[oldsaw]

Wow!!!!, looks good. Nice work.

Mark

 

[ale]

Guys, I've never rebuilt a saw...just wanted to know what to set the carb settings too and how long and what kind of break in period should I do? Keep in mind I've added an extra port to the front of the muffler. How many turns on the carb is right?

Also, this saw will be used mostly for hardwood...Black Locust, Hickory and Oak in SW Virginia...nothing too big. Should a 24'' bar work well and what about chain. I have been using Stihl RSC with good results. Will I pick up anything with a different sproket?

just wanting some general tips so I can make sure I'm doing it right.

...I wish I had taken before vs. after pics 'cause this thing came back from the dead.

 

[joesawer]

It looks nice. Now you just need some big dogs to go along with the full wrap.
For your carb setting you will have to adjust it for your conditions and mods. I would start about 1 and 1/8 turn out with both High and low screws. Adjust the idle screw and low screw until you get a good smooth idle and transition to the higher rpm. It looks like you have a black coil (non rev limited coil) so setting the H screw will be easier. You want to set it so that it begins to four stroke (make a skipping sound) at wide open throttle with no load. Then when you are cutting wood with a load on the motor it will pull the rpm down enough that there is no skipping.
Remember small changes on the carb screws make big differences.
After you have it set where you think it needs to be, make a cut and while the saw is still under a load turn the kill switch off and pull your plug. It should be a light brown to chocalate color. You don't want a light color plug, that means you are too lean. If it is black and oily you are too rich.
Break your saw in with normal use. Avoid prolonged no load revs and long periods of idle.
I think it should pull a 24" fine.
Imo a 8 tooth would be better. For me chain speed is very important. If it seems to bog the saw too much, leave the depth gauges higher and work on a smoother more effecient chain. I normally run an 8 tooth and a 32" bar on a modded 372 (even in dead hard oak).

 

[SawTroll]

If you do the conversion you will notice a huge increase in power. I did one and didn't expect much, but was very suprised.

Sure .8 hp (or .9, depending on exact versions) makes a difference......